I've trawled the Net for opinions on this, and the specified 6mm cable at 90* doesn't seem to exist in general supply. The manual refers to H05V2V2-FT
General opinion is don't fit common twin and earth - needs heat resistant cable.
Closest I can find so far is H07 which is 6mm rated +85*.
Anything closer?
I think the chances of it exceeding 85C (vs 90C) at the terminals is pretty minimal for an induction hob so H07 would probably be fine.
People traditionally wire up cookers in 6mm2 T+E anyway - so heat resistant cable of any sort is a luxury :)
It would be a pretty poor design of hob that exceeded 90C on the body, I'd say.
After several hours of research, I found this which is by far the closest a nd sold by the metre, so it's ordered and paid for. Seems good to 85* at le ast.
There are several threads on connecting induction hobs which are rated arou nd 7Kw and plenty of discussion. I hope the above helps.
H07 is rated 60* so that's close but not as good.
I did find this in one thread:
"Called to look at an electric hob which was tripping the MCB. I found that the 6mm T+E was severely burnt at the hob terminals and had also burnt the plastic terminal moulding. The customer was pretty annoyed at what i found as it could well have caused a fire. He wanted to know how this could happ en and who's insurers to contact. After a bit of digging around, i found th at the install instruction called for HO5RR-F to be used."
Bosh ones come with a lead fitted. You would think they all would at the price they are.
If the terminal moulding had melted too sounds far more like a poor connection than the cable overheating.
and sold by the metre, so it's ordered and paid for. Seems good to 85* at least.
ound 7Kw and plenty of discussion. I hope the above helps.
at the 6mm T+E was severely burnt at the hob terminals and had also burnt t he plastic terminal moulding. The customer was pretty annoyed at what i fou nd as it could well have caused a fire. He wanted to know how this could ha ppen and who's insurers to contact. After a bit of digging around, i found that the install instruction called for HO5RR-F to be used."
Loose connection.
Ordinary T&E has been used to connect cookers for fifty years to my persona l knowledge. Put a bit of heat resistant sleeving over the ends it makes you feel better . But not ususally done
If the connecters weren't tightened up properly in the first place, it would matter little what cable was used.
I wonder if a loss adjuster would take the same view though.
That sounds like the problem to me too. Going off at a tangent, silicone insulated wire is readily available in various colours and modest lengths from eBay (typically used in radio controlled electric cars). I use this as "tails" on some immersion heaters in a light industrial application because I find that "normal" butyl heat resisting three-core hardens over time, even with good contacts.
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