Insulation - effects on my gaff

Dec 05, 2016 10 Replies

I did a bit of an empirical measurement on Saturday which is quite interesting...



Brick bungalow, no underfloor insulation generally, 2" cavity brick walls with blown fibre.



I have added 100mm celotex over the dormer and roof (well, mostly - 75mm for the last 200-400mm above eaves and there are about 5m2 that I have not yet put the final 25mm on, so 75mm currently.


Sunday - metered electric heating only and the building was warm and being held steady state. Used 49.42kWh over 11 hours, so 4490kW average heating power.


By calculation I reckon:



1000W is going out of the DG ali windows (assumed U=3.7W/m2K)
150W single glazed front door (Assumed U=4.8W/m2K)
160W side door
361W new uPVC windows (stated as U=1.7W/m2K)

which leaves (ignoring air changes) 2779W going out the floor, roof and walls.



This works out at an effective U value of 0.47W/m2K



Which is not as good as Part L requires now (around 0.13W/m2K) but considering the floor is uninsulated and the blown fibre is old and only



50mm, does not seem bad.


The ali windows will get a slight improvement when the get reglazed with K glass and maybe argon fill. The frames have a thermal break, and the current glass is running with water inside.


Oh - and assuming 21C inside and average 0C outside (bsed on temperature readinsg that went from -5C to about +5C).

Its all gibberish to me. My floors are uninsulated, what a night mare doing that would be, my walls are single wall no cavvity so not a lot to do there. Loft insulated but how do you do the bit where the hatch and ladder are? double glazing is ld with narrow spacing and no break in the ally frames so ice can occur on inside of frames. Only one window uunit blown with tiny crack in outside pane at one corner. Still it seems pretty good as both back and front doors are upvc wide spaced, more problems from beading letting draghts in due to bend in frame. Brian

I made a new hatch cover from a piece of the stuff they do conservatories with (often free as an off cut), PVC on both sides and foam in between.

Just hacked an inch out of the end and glued some wood in for the hinges to fix too.

Or stick 50mm of polytstyrene onto the wooden door.

exactly (floors) - and I suspect they don't have such a big effect as fixing the walls and roof anyway.

Well, you could line with celotex and plasterboard - but that depends how desperate you are :) Or even line the outside and clad.

Bit of celotex (etc) on the loft hatch is the usual way - 2" is sufficient. Modern plastic hatches can be got with insulation built in.

Aye, the drafts are a killer. Is it possible to add some sealing strip (foam or rubber)?

21C! I presume that she controls the stat:-)?

Actually me - I like it warm when cold outside :)

Probably cheaper and better to just junk the windows and get uPVC replacements.

When we got new double glazing with the special glass it reflected all the heat of the sun. Much cooler in some weather.

Andy

I think I've got that on my conservatory roof - is it tinted blue by any chance?

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