If you can't get a perfect cut from a circular saw in a fraction of the time, you either need a new blade or you don't know how to use the thing
If you can't get a perfect cut from a circular saw in a fraction of the time, you either need a new blade or you don't know how to use the thing
"Last year's models" from the blue GST range have had some very attractive pricetags frrom suppliers like Screwfix.
I wouldn't want anything other than a blue Bosch. Worth every penny.
My green PST700 has given stirling service over many years now, although it was pretty pricey at the time. It was one of the first times I'd bought a power tool to replace a working one - a cheap B&D which kept on breaking its blade support - and was amazed how a seemingly similar tool could perform so much better. Its other most appealing feature is the ability to change blades without a tool.
A router (even a cheap one) does a far better job and is the normal way of trimming worktops on site. A moderately good one can produce work to 0.5mm accuracy. OTOH it is taking you into the £50+ price bracket for a basic cheapo.
I agree, but have you seen them at the ~ £40 price point?
Matt, you made all that up.
While a router *may* be a better option, depending on the application, there is a big difference in outcome depending on the type of jigsaw.
PPPro routers, or anything much else in 12.7mm that is less than about £150, simply does not have the quality, accuracy and power to be worth having.
So you can follow a line freehand with a router can you? A sink cutout doesn't require accuracy so is faster and easier with a (decent) jigsaw.
The message from Stuart Noble contains these words:
Don't need to, do you? Just clamp a batten to the top, or screw it to the underside and run the router along that.
Yep, a perfectly straight clean cut. I have used a circular saw to cut out a sink hole in worktops. Very quick and easy, just lower the blade onto the worktop gently on the line. A nice straight cut. I have seen many sinks have leaking joints because the hole cut out was curvy and jagged because of the jigsaw cut. The rubber seal couldn't make a good seal. Then the dreaded silicon is used.
Perhaps dribble has been put off any type of saw for life after the plastic pipe incident, but using a router to cut out a hole in a worktop for a sink or hob is just plain stupid - a good jigsaw is the tool for the job, and does it in a fraction of the time.
I would agree in general, except for when fitting buttler style sinks into solid wood worktops. Then the cut edge of the worktop is visible and a router a template is the way to go.
Exactly. By the time you'd positioned and fixed 4 battens the sink would be in with the jigsaw method and you'd be down the pub (hoping not to bump into Dr.Strangelove)
Agreed, and even pukka jigsaws have been known to wander seriously on the crosscut of beech worktops. Last one I did had so much resin it was bubbling on the blade
Oh indeed. For any edge requiring an accurate finish. Which you don't under a surface mounted sink or hob. I'm also wondering how many passes you'd need with a cheap router to cut through a 2" worktop?
And then spend a lot of time getting rid of the leaks because of the jagged jigsaw cut. I have never seen a pro kitchen fitter use a jigsaw on site. Always a router - some of the clearances are very tight so the hole has to be just right and straight. You stick to the cowboy ways.
You go to odd pubs. Was it one in South London near a sink estate with babbling frothing Scotman in the corner?
You need to have big gaps to get all those pumps in. You an industrial cutter of some sort. One pump for kitchen tap, one for the dishwater, one for the washing machine, etc. Wow some space you need there. Design the kitchen around the pumps.
Can you give us a .jpg of your pump please?
Indeed not, nor yet a professional plumber.
Why would you add a pump for a dishwasher that presumably already has a service valve suitable for a low pressure supply?
Drivel by name...
Dribble, if you will insist in buying crap tools you can't complain when you don't get a straight cut. Get a decent jigsaw and you can cut a standard chipboard worktop with far greater accuracy than is required for an inset sink... (well at least I can - you never seem to do anything, so I doubt you can).
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