Buried Electrical connections

What sort of cable did you use?

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)
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Mineral Insulated Copper Covered. Commonly known as Pyro. Often covered in orange PVC - although this isn't needed for every use. In its bare copper form it's ideal for surface runs across old wood beams etc as it quickly blends in. The sort you'd use for a light is only about 5mm in diameter so much neater than conduit doing the same job. Most commonly seen in old pubs.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

ISTR the above requirements only came in with the 16th edition, so earlier installations are unlikely to comply.

Reply to
Martin Crossley

We were talking about joints in metal capping (aka channelling) which tends only to come in 2 metre lengths.

Reply to
Andy Wade
[Cable safe zones]

No, this was introduced in an amendment to the 15th edition which took effect on 12th June 1987 (thus pre-dating the 16th ed. by about four years).

In the context of the current discussion it's interesting to observe a footnote to the original 15th ed. regulation 523-20(d) which reads:

"NOTE - where a cable is to be concealed in plaster, capping may be provided for convenience and to prevent damage to the cable during the plastering process."

Reply to
Andy Wade

In an ideal world a continous run of cable is preffered.

However it *is* acceptable to burry a joint if it is done correctly. Vis:

Wire joint is made using crimped, welded, or soldered construction Each wire is individually protected with suitable material (i.e. heatshrink sleaving) The overall sheath is also covered with heatshrink

Reply to
John Rumm

Take your pick:

Cut out section of plaster round damaged wire, cut out and replace damaged section by crimping in new bit of wire, test, and make good.

or

Move furniture, lift carpets, lift floor, disconnect wiring at accessory, attempt to pull old cable from conduit, while pulling through new wire, reterminate at accessory. test, relay floor, carpet, shift furniture.

I can do the first one in 20 mins flat. How long would the second one take?

Failing that, save youself the effort by observing the cable zones and getting a cable detector.

Conduit is great if used for its intended purpose i.e. wired with singles and not cable. However it is a right PITA to work with when you start trying to stick T&E down it.

Nothing wrong with having conduit, but that is not the way it is done in the vast majority of places, and certainly not a requirement.

Try that on a lath and plaster wall.

Reply to
John Rumm

messagenews: snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk...

That's an odd question from one who is lecturing others on how to install wiring. At the very least, Google would allow you to hide your ignorance.

MBQ

Reply to
manatbandq

The correct sort sold for lighting and ring mains.

Alan

Reply to
Alan Holmes

I would not like to take the risk of crimping mains cable, I would use a proper juction box.

Which would not be neccessary if the cable had continuos and been installed in conduit as there would not have been the risk of a short circuit.

It would not be neccessary on a lathe and plaster wall as the cable could be suspended in the gap between the sides.

Alan

Reply to
Alan Holmes

The original post was about crimping two cable ends together in a buried cable.

Alan

Reply to
Alan Holmes

That doesn't answer the question. ;-) However, I'll make it easier. Did you use Twin and Earth?

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

I would be horrified if someone did that in a house I lived in.

Either do the job properly or don't do it.

Would you expect a professional electrician to install a cable like that?

Alan

Reply to
Alan Holmes

I'll make sure I keep well out of your way!

Alan

Reply to
Alan Holmes

Umm that would be two different types of cable.

Reply to
Steve Firth

Then you are a f****it.

Oh hang on it's Holmes. Everyone knows that you are a f****it.

Reply to
Steve Firth

He used the proper 4.75mm for the lights and the correct 9.853mm for the ring!

Reply to
EricP

If the joint is to be inaccessable then that that would be prohibited by the regs:

[526-04-01] "Except for the following, every connection and joint shall be accessable for inspection, testing and maintenance

(i) a compound-filled or encapsulated joint (ii) a connection between a cold tail and a heating element (e.g. a ceiling and floor heating system, a pipe trace heating system (iii) a joint made by welding, soldering, brazing or compression tool (iv) a joint forming part of the equipment complying with the appropriate product standard"

There will be when you stick a nail through it.

Also depricated, and a bit trickey when you need to cross the studs.

Reply to
John Rumm

Needlessly, but your perogative obviously.

I have described the correct way to joint a cable that is to be plastered over. Better not to joint it if avoidable, but if you need to, then that is a regs approved way of doing it.

For a repair or extension to exiting wiring, then yes, that is how I would expect a concealed joint to be made.

If it were a rewire from scratch then there would be no need for joints of this type.

Reply to
John Rumm

The message from "Alan Holmes" contains these words:

That might be a mistake. Apart from not complying with the current regs if the box is inaccessible, it's also just silly because crimps are more reliable than screws in a junction box. You might notice that the sort of power cables that run underground into substation are crimped together, not done with screw terminals.

Reply to
Guy King

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