bonding double stretcher wall

Always better with the appropiate number of strechers. Be sure to use frost resistant bricks And engineering bricks low down.

Reply to
harryagain
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I am building a low-ish (< 1 meter) garden wall basically as double stretch er bond - there are some half brick sections working around obstacles, othe r sections 9" thick and a few sections effectively 9" piers. The only visib le side will be all stretcher bond. Is there likely to be any long term pro blem with using stainless steel wall ties to bond the two leaves, or should I go to the trouble of bonding with shortened headers with a queen closer on the front to hide them ? Simon.

Reply to
sm_jamieson

What's the reason for not using Flemish bond, or Flemish Garden Wall bond, which are designed to give full strength for a 9" (full brick) wall?

Reply to
Andrew Gabriel

cher bond - there are some half brick sections working around obstacles, ot her sections 9" thick and a few sections effectively 9" piers. The only vis ible side will be all stretcher bond. Is there likely to be any long term p roblem with using stainless steel wall ties to bond the two leaves, or shou ld I go to the trouble of bonding with shortened headers with a queen close r on the front to hide them ?

I've never heard of SS ties running into trouble. I presume plain SS wire o r assorted SS scrap is cheaper.

NT

Reply to
tabbypurr

etcher bond - there are some half brick sections working around obstacles, other sections 9" thick and a few sections effectively 9" piers. The only v isible side will be all stretcher bond. Is there likely to be any long term problem with using stainless steel wall ties to bond the two leaves, or sh ould I go to the trouble of bonding with shortened headers with a queen clo ser on the front to hide them ?

or assorted SS scrap is cheaper.

in principle rope's even cheaper, but I'd expect it to decay.

Reply to
tabbypurr

The only time you would normally build a double skinned outdoor wall which is not a completely cross-bonded is if the two sides are completely different materials, e.g. bricks one side, rocks the other side. In this case, you build the regular side (brickwork) first, but you embed strips of SS expamet in some of the mortar beds and perps, such that they will straddle the two sides when the second side is built. You must then leave the first side for the mortar to set to max strength (around 6 weeks), or any force/movement of the expamet will break the mortar bonds. The exposed expamet edges are lethal at this point and must be temporarily boarded over. Then you can build the second side by placing the rocks into the recesses in the exposed expamet. The rocks must be self-supporting but bonded to the existing brickwork with mortar embedding the expamet, rather than just hanging off the first side of the wall, which would probably eventually pull it over.

If there's some reason to really build a double skinned stretcher bond garden wall, this is going to be a lot weaker than a house cavity wall, because it doesn't have any stabilising weight on top of it. Sideways force on the wall will probably cause the wall profile to parallelogram, with any SS wire ties tending to force the mortar beds to break, making the wall much weaker. If I had to do this, I would use SS expamet, but most particularly in perps (vertical mortar joins), well bedded in, and straddling both sides, stopping short of the faces to allow whatever pointing style is required. This would be the best protection against the wall profile parallelograming, and would not turn horizontal forces on the wall into leverage to separate the horizontal mortar beds. In this case, you would build both sides of the wall together, and it would be essential that they sit on a single common foundation.

Reply to
Andrew Gabriel

etcher bond - there are some half brick sections working around obstacles, other sections 9" thick and a few sections effectively 9" piers. The only v isible side will be all stretcher bond. Is there likely to be any long term problem with using stainless steel wall ties to bond the two leaves, or sh ould I go to the trouble of bonding with shortened headers with a queen clo ser on the front to hide them ?

Oh, its decorative concrete blocks, 300 x 100 x 65 mm on one side, the same blocks or some spare engineering bricks on the other side, with some parts half brick around obstacles. Wall only about 700mm high. The bocks look be st in plain stretcher bond.

Simon.

Reply to
sm_jamieson

stretcher bond - there are some half brick sections working around obstacle s, other sections 9" thick and a few sections effectively 9" piers. The onl y visible side will be all stretcher bond. Is there likely to be any long t erm problem with using stainless steel wall ties to bond the two leaves, or should I go to the trouble of bonding with shortened headers with a queen closer on the front to hide them ?

ire or assorted SS scrap is cheaper.

Most of the new brick walls around here appear to be stretcher bond only, w ith a sideways soldier course on the top. Not sure how they are bonded - I did not see them being built.

Anyway, you've put me off using wire ties ! I'll build in a number of headers with closers on the front to keep the loo k. Thanks, Simon.

Reply to
sm_jamieson

The other reason I've seen it done is when using handmade bricks whose size isn't too regular. If you build it in flemish or english bond, fair faced one side, the other side ends up looking a mess.

Reply to
Tony Bryer

You should tie the two walls together. I suggest SS expamet across some of the the perps (vertical mortar joins), or even SS wire ties in that same position.

Reply to
Andrew Gabriel

Better bond into rough rockwork. You pack them with mortar and jam the rocks in between them.

However, in the two stetcher bond wall case, a vertical strip right through perps on both sides and set solid in mortar will act instead of the missing header bricks to prevent the wall profile parallelograming.

Reply to
Andrew Gabriel

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