I like the comment from Peter Ward "It is clear from the state of those conductors this has had several takes to make this video no wonder colleges are turning out unskilled people when the tutors are so poor?"
Well Peter - it is an exam testing circuit that has been used many times by students.
Chris Hogg presented the following explanation :
I never had much of a short term memory for such things and was easily deflected, I make copious notes.
Do these sockets have to be installed with the earth at the top, it's something I've only just thought about, i.e is it OK to install a soocket the other way up the earth pin then being at the bottom. The only thing I can think or is that crap could fall into a plugged in plug where the cables come out. of teh 'top' then there's the Q is it OK to install them at 90 and 270 rotations.
Curious but then I think I presented early and quite young (52). Very slight tremor, no other symptoms I was aware of, sent me to the GP. Who refered me to the PD lot, one consultation later they were pretty sure, based on tremor, slower finger taps in right hand, not swinging right arm when walking. A DATscan confirmed it.
automatic
Every one has the "what did I come here for?" moments but it'll come with a bit of thought. This is different the information just isn't there or if it was it has disappeared in fractions of a second.
Ta, the next few weeks are going to be interesting. I'm hoping that the sinemet will reduce the tremor but not pinning anything on that. DBS seems a bit too risky for my liking (ATM, things will chnage...). Not sure if the new ultrasound surgery will be any good for a PD tremor, the patient in the news last year suffered from essential tremor.
They are frequently put 90 out, when someone strips the thread and uses the other two.
Well some people will no doubt kick up a fuss.
A moulded plug (a heavy duty type not one a flimsy charger one for a mobile phone MAY have undue strain on the flex if the socket was on it's side).
However most of my flimsy phone chargers have their cable coming out of the top of the moulded plug and in IMHO they would last longer if the socket was installed upside down.
I would say that that they are more commonly installed this way as the socket is too close to the floor to allow a plug with moulded strain relief to fit the socket.
I thought it was 'normal' to mechanically twist the CPC wires together before inserting into the socket, so that earth continuity does not just depend on the tightness of the earth terminal. ?.
I noticed that he pointed to the LHS Live termination whilst referring to it as the RHS and vice versa for the neutral. Obviously, the reference was from the PoV of the external face of the socket (or, if you prefer, the PoV of a plugtop sans its cover to reveal the wire connections). Furthermore, he also made a point of mentioning the clarity of the markings identifying the L N and E connections (so far so good).
As per usual with such 'instructional videos' most of the criticisms were pointless and entirely missing the points that should, perhaps have been criticised (or at least questioned).
In particular, the contrary use of 3 core flex in place of the 2.5mm FT&E cable normally mandated for ring main cabling (so far so very very bad), along with poking each pair of conductors one at a time into each termination point instead of twisting the bare stranded wire ends together beforehand just made things worse.
If the more common solid cored FT&E cable had been laid into the conduit, then the one at a time method would have made unquestionable sense - talk about "mixed messages"!.
...when careful observation will settle any confusion (as was mentioned, rather glibly mind you, in that video). :-)
If ICBA to sign up to a stinky "Web Forum" merely to post a comment on this "Instructional Video", my question or criticism wouldn't have been about connection polarity issues but more about the misuse of flexible cable in place of the normal 2.5mm solid cored FT&E which resulted in the confusing idea of inserting stranded wire ends one at a time into the socket termination holes (correct for solid cored FT&E but) contrary to the need to twist the bared ends of stranded conductors together before inserting them into a socket terminal.
Isn't it rather a good idea to insert each wire in turn into the hole, tighten the screw and then go onto the next wire into its hole and tighten etc - irrespective of whether the wire is solid or stranded.
If I try to put all the wires into all the holes at the same time, some will jump out as I'm trying to tighten screws for the others, because you need to press the socket towards each wire in turn to prevent it jumping out.
What is the correct method for screwing stranded wire into a terminal hole? You would use solid in the socket, I agree, but you still have to use stranded for a flexible appliance lead and may need to wire a plug onto it.
Well, it seems the manufacturers of 13A mains sockets (and plugtops) share your concern since they include clear markings (LNE) embossed or engraved into the fabric of these products to identify each terminals' intended function independently of any interpretations of their handedness. :-)
Well, you and I may realise that but you'd have thought they could at least have applied the modicum of effort required to avoid the pantomime of pretending the use of solid cored conductors during the making of that video play when terminating them onto the socket using, contrary to normal cabling practice, stranded wire flexible cable that had been employed as a substitute for 2.5mm FT&E in the make up of the training rig (presumably for the sake of convenience - reduced cable replacement cycles and a more manageable socket wiring experience for the students).
Of course they do!
That's why I found this today at work
What do you do with the stranded 2.5mm T&E?
I would not twist them together.
The trick is to remove exactly the same length of insulation from each wire. So that with it fully home you *just* can't see the conductor. So it will be obvious if any isn't clamped by the screw.
En el artículo , ARW escribió:
Omg.
Another apprentice jobbie?
====snip====
Twist the bared ends together, of course! I thought I'd implied as much. :-)
I always used to twist 2.5mm etc together - before being told it was bad practice. And never had a twisted joint give problems. But have repaired plenty that weren't twisted, where the connection wasn't done up tight enough.
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.