Boiler relocation

I've got the £400 scrappage allowance, and a plumber has given me a quote for a fit/relocate combi boiler from an upstairs bedroom to the dining room directly below - £1800 including an £800 boiler, which seems OK.

Thing is, I'm not entirely happy about the proposals for the flue. He intends to exit to an external wall, pics here:

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that look OK? Strikes me it might compromise a bit of wall that's holding up a lot. Alternatively, could the flue exit to the gennel, and then wrap round to the planned exit point? I think he was saying that's not allowed, not sure.

Thanks, Rob

Reply to
Rob
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Drilling a hole for a normal flue ain't going to compromise the strength of a normal house wall.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Probably OK if the guy uses a diamond core drill of the correct diameter and doesn't try to just knock it through with a chisel or electric hammer. The balanced flues on quite a lot of boilers are only designed for internal installation and only the terminal can be placed outside, so might preclude running the thing round outside.

Cheers, Hugh

Reply to
Hugh

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That appears to be directly under the lintel which might be seriously weakened by such a hole. It also appears to be too close to the top light if that's an opener.

I would suggest that you get a second opinion from a local BCO for possible weakening of the lintel and ask to see the boiler installation manual for proximity of the flue to any openings.

Cic.

Reply to
Cicero

Which may be an answer to something I've been considering. I want a new boiler but the ideal location isn't on an outside wall, although it is adjacent to a chimney flue. Is it possible to vent a boiler into a flue like this, or must it be external?

Reply to
Bernard Peek

Looks like it's right underneath where the lintel rests.

Reply to
F

Following up on my earlier comment, I agree it would be with checking the position and length of a structural support. Could the hole be made a bit higher so it would clear any possible lintel? Outer leaf is obviously a brick arch, inside timber?

As someone else commented, the flue outlet could be too close to an opening window or door, however you could probably overcome that with a plume management tube.

Reply to
Hugh

I'd be concerned about any reduction in masonry at that location too.

If you changed to an open flue/room-vented boiler, you may be able to take a more circuitous route, though ISTR there's still a very low distance limit on horizontal sections of flue - possibly from both manufacturers spec and building regs.

If that's feasible, you could incorporate the necessary permanent room ventilation into a door panel, if there's no suitable spot in the masonry.

Reply to
dom

Modern condensing boilers can't function with a flue FWIU

Reply to
Mike

Cicero wibbled on Saturday 13 February 2010 13:01

I agree - that lintel will probably have a 6" +/- overhang.

Also, I'm not entirely convinced the terminal would be far enough away from the opening door - best check the building regs or the boiler installer's manual (which usually reprints the diagrams from the BR).

Other options: up through the ceiling and out above the lintel and an extension tube to take it clear of the openings?

Reply to
Tim Watts

Many thanks (and everyone) - I've emailed the plumber and asked if he can have a rethink.

Rob

Reply to
Rob

As a butressing wall, there can be an opening of up to 0.1m^2 in any position. As a load bearing 'column', provided that the hole is sufficiently below the lintels' bearing to allow the load to spread out, then it should be OK.

Reply to
Hugo Nebula

Well, they have a flue, but its a balanced one. Some boiler will support a long enough maximum flue length to allow the flue to be extended up a chimney, and the terminal arranged at the top.

Reply to
John Rumm

That's a square foot in real money. That's a hell of a big hole to have under the end of a lintel!

Reply to
Roger Mills

One of the floor standing WBs has a flue option that can be poked up a conventional flue, and the flue itself used for the incoming air (sealed at top and bottom with a plate).

Reply to
<me9

The 0.1m^2 (1 square foot) is for buttressing. The lintel would still need support under.

Reply to
Hugo Nebula

I would be very surprised if you could even buy such a thing these days.

Reply to
John Rumm

John Rumm wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@brightview.co.uk:

Not difficult to find such boilers.

Some Remeha boiler models can be configured to open flue operation when conditions for room sealed not practical .

There are other makes available I believe.

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: snipped-for-privacy@netfront.net ---

Reply to
Heliotrope Smith

He/we have had a rethink, and it'll go out to the gennel, round the corner, and exit roughly at the original point with a plume kit.

I'm happier with that. The lintels at these points are a bit unpredictable. I've never seen one, but a colleague tells me that it's not uncommon for wood to be used. While they can/do last, if they've been uncovered/compromised problems can arise. And while I wouldn't have thought any problems would arise at the 9" solid wall to the left, I couldn't get my head round the spread of forces to the right.

Reply to
Rob

Did you look at the pictures?

MBQ

Reply to
Man at B&Q

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