BMC A series thermostat etc

Do wonder about previous maintenance, though. Generally the thermostat will need replacing often enough to keep the housing free. And did it always use a good quality anti-freeze to prevent internal corrosion? Likely not since at one time anti-freeze caused corrosion. ;-)

They were like that when relatively new. Our maxim became 'When in doubt hoick it out'

And strip it on the bench and replace ALL the dodgy bits

In message , "Dave Plowman (News)" writes

Dave, I have owned the car since November 1996 and yes, it has always received good quality anti freeze since then, although I don't know the condition of the parts when I bought it. It has received general maintenance and servicing since then, but no major overhauls. Only done

Sounds lovely. ;-)

I do remember my days of A series engines, and many of the 'aluminium' looking parts in the water jacket would have pretty severe signs of corrosion. Like the internals of the water pump. Later anti-freeze (really made for all ally engines) tended to be pretty good at preventing corrosion on most materials in use. Until plastic came along with its own problems. ;-)

In message , "Dave Plowman (News)" writes

Making progress. Got the bottom hose off, and yes, I can see the split. Also got the heater valve off, and although the spigot (right word?) had completely corroded away, the assembly itself just lifted off the block. That, of course, was after I had undone the nuts, which was after removing the battery to gain access ...

I'm not complaining, though. The car has cost me very little to run, apart from the usual consumables. The coil exploded once, the fuel gauge works sometimes and a few other little niggles that I'll sort one day, other than that, all OK.

While you're at it, check the by-pass hose. This is a short small diameter vertical hose from just under the thermostat housing down to the top of the water pump. These have a habit of failing at very inconvenient times and places - as I know to my cost. They're a right sod to fit 'cos they go between two metal pipes with only a short gap between them to wangle the hose in. ISTR that the original hoses were rigid, and could *only* be fitted with either the head or the water pump removed, but you could buy concertina type replacements which could

The later bypass hoses were corrugated. The trick was to put them is hot water for a while before fitting. This softened them and made the job a lot easier.

In message , Roger Mills writes

Thanks Roger. You are right, of course, although when ordering parts yesterday, I quietly ignored that hose, knowing what a pig it is to change without more major dismantling. At the moment, it does not appear to be leaking, although I think I will get a spare anyway, knowing the condition of the bottom hose. One of the concertina ones would be useful.

Just been talking to my brother, and telling him how my son is amazed that, when doing stuff on the Morris, I can find almost any tool I need in the shed. Will my lifetime's collection of tools ever be used after my demise, or will they become landfill? We just don't see kids today fixing old bangers in the way most of us did 40-50 years ago. Then again, I open the bonnet of a modern car and quickly close it again. Minors, Anglias and Cortinas were so relatively easy to work on.

In message , harry writes

Thanks Harry. Will order a spare 'just in case'.

I picked up my "new" (5 y/o) car, yesterday. I can't even see where the spark plugs are, never mind get at them. (*) I do wish the manufacturers would stop deleting dip-sticks, though. Not only is there no dipstick, but I have to go through a stupid dance to check the oil level (warm engine, stop engine, wait 10 minutes, access "oil level" function in electronic dashboard.

(* And why should I pay £95/hr for someone to remove and replace all those plastic covers over the engine? What are they even for?)

IIRC (It's been a *long* time since I owned a Mini), there's trick with the corrugated ones to fitting them, involving putting them in a 'G' cramp and freezing them ...

ISTR using Swarfega to lubricate them...

Why did I ever start this ... :-)

I beg your pardon? :oD

I found on my many Minis that the concertina type being so much thinner had a much shorter life than the original.

If i had one now I'd go for a silicone type. Would need dismantling to fit, but should last for ever.

Thing is you may never need to access those plugs. Many have a 100,000 mile life. Covers to stop dirt, damage, etc may be no bad thing. An electronic 'dipstick' can also give a warning if the oil level is low. Many people simply ain't capable of using a dipstick and wouldn't know where to find it anyway. Or add oil themselves.

Red 'brake' grease. Designed specifically to lubricate 'rubber'

A question I frequently ask myself when DIY is involved.

A delicate mixture of parafin or disel, washing up liquid and sand.

Try it. Nothing better for getting ingrained oil off yer hands