It's leaking around the spout where it joins to the can. I don't think it's possible to solder a galvanised can, or is there some approach I could take? I don't have access to brazing gear. New cans are quite expensive and this can is fine, apart from the leak.
Wire brush back to the steel, and solder it that way? The mian problem, though, is that if the leak is due to corrosion, getting back to good steel is likely to leave a large hole, which is going to be "fun" to patch if all you have is normal soldering gear. You'll probably need to use a blowtorch to get the metal hot enough to activate the flux and melt the solder, too.
You don't need anything too drastic on the blowlamp line to braze, though. I've seen it done it with a standard butane torch before now, and the flux and rods are obtainable from any welding supplier.
two part epoxy putty?
"Bakers Fluid" is used to solder zinc.
It should solder OK as described by John but you may need an active (acidic) flux rather than normal rosin-based soldering flux. This one might be OK
If the joint has a big hole you could wrap copper wire around it (e.g. stripped from T&E) to help bridge the gap.
A gas-torch may be useful to achieve the required temperature unless you have a BIG soldering iron.
Or for a less elegant solution, use "plumbers" epoxy.
(not what *I* would have called Plumbers Mait)
Sugru?
Gordon
Brush away any loose stuff and use Araldite, applied generously.
ROTFLMAO
You mean that the can is f***ed.
It's leaking around the spout where it joins to the can. I don't think it's possible to solder a galvanised can, or is there some approach I could take? I don't have access to brazing gear. New cans are quite expensive and this can is fine, apart from the leak.
Tank filler from any good motorists store or Buy a new one
A nice piece of advice but you are forgetting who the OP is.
He is so tight that he would not give you the steam off his piss.
Roughly what I was thinking, but you expressed it really well. :)
I regularly solder galvanised sheet with a good result using 'lead free' plumbers solder and the appropriate flux. However be aware that I am using new shiny plate. In your case you need to clean the galvanising thoroughly, either by abrading with a wire wheel, or a mild acid wash.
Andrew
Article about Sugru in the Guardian:
It's not cheap though!
Is it rusty inside at the join? If so then there is not much you can do, its just like a car. its g going to carry on rusting whatever you do.
Brian
It's knackered, bin it, buy a plastic one.
The zinc galvanizing is a sacrificial anode; it inhibits the corrosion of the steel until all the zinc has gone. Once the zinc has gone, it's knackered and will perforate repeatedly.
It's knackered. Bin it.
Agreed.
I am acquainted with an Apple Magsafe laptop connector that was "mended" by someone with Sugru. It looked pretty mucky after a bit of use. The connector failed after a year or two of intermittently working. So the Sugru was simply an extra expense, and a delaying factor in going for the right solution.
It is interesting, it might have its place, but I am sceptical, especially at the price.
That little 'exchange' just put me in mind of the very first episode of Red Dwarf for some reason. :-)
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