Since when do you wash down ordinary heat exchangers? Since when did you do this?
Burners on condening boilers are invariable of the forced premix type. Burners on non-condensing domestic boilers are invariable atmospheric.
Don't waste bandwidth on him Geoff. Its a total waste of time and effort, which is precisely why he's locked in my killfile system. (In fact if you don't quote him I don't see him)
Don't forget also his first appearance in this group asking for help in understanding latent heat and flow/volume. Also his long repeated dirges extolling combis before admitting he didn't actually have one at that time - perhaps he now has???
????
Not always the case. A pre-mix is not complicated.,but is for dumb plumbers.
Maxie, I thougt you had gone off to the far east again.
In message , IMM writes
That's your problem isn't it .... always getting things wrong
Do you know of a good site for sizing rads Andy?
TIA Rob
Replace 'spam' with 'org' to reply
Do you know of a good site for sizing rads Andy?
TIA Rob
Replace 'spam' with 'org' to reply
Rob,
I've emailed you a copy of the Myson one. It's not up on their site at the moment.
It does give correct results, but do check the U values against those in the Building Regulations Approved Documents
None of the on line sites that I have tried give correct results and at least one was out by a factor of 4.
When using the Myson one (and looking at data sheets for radiators), don't forget to look at the derating factors. If you are going to run your system at the traditional 82degree/70 degree temperatures then the published radiator outputs have to be reduced by 11% - i.e. a nominal 1000W radiator really gives 890W at these temperatures. If you are doing an entirely new system with a condensing boiler, you can run it at 70degrees flow/50degrees return. In this case, you need to derate the radiators by 40%. You can't really mix the two scenarios.
You begin by calculating the room heat losses at -3 degrees and then divide by 0.6 or 0.89 as appropriate.
Even if you have to run a condensing boiler system at nominal 82/70 degrees it is still worth doing because the calculations are for worst case. During spring and autumn the boiler will run at lower temperatures anyway.
.andy
To email, substitute .nospam with .gl
I just did and to apply, you have to provide the name and details of a CORGI installer. This is not a DIY scheme.
.andy
To email, substitute .nospam with .gl
Not when I rang.
I guess that you didn't ask all the questions......
.andy
To email, substitute .nospam with .gl
I did.
Our supposed boiler expert. this one hasn't a clue. He didn't know that condensing boiler than achieve over 100% efficiency. Some expert. More like a cowboy who should be avoided at all costs.
Maxie, it is your problem. Are you stocking up on bike clips? Are bike clips in short supply?
Got different answers then, didn't you...
.andy
To email, substitute .nospam with .gl
You know very well that the stated efficiency depends on the method of measurement and that different schemes are in use.
Thank you John Wayne......
.andy
To email, substitute .nospam with .gl
Depends on what questions you ask.
writes
I do know very well, but this turkey never.
Mr Wayne should be avoided at all costs. And that's not Wayne Rooney. He is a footballer by the way. If you are in the real world you would have read or heard his name today. Wayne doesn't do boilers though, although he is now working for an old Scottish boiler.
In message , IMM writes
You probably misled them into believing that you were CORGI Regd
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.