What do BCO's look for, when, for replacement windows?
I am contemplating replacing a few windows - over some years as redecorate - but want to wrap them into one application. Can't find e.g. if they want details up-front in the application and records of work in progress or, at other extreme, just turn up once at end with a meter of some sort to check them all.
Failed so far to get an answer from local BC.
they can check for the low-E glass (and that's fitted the right way round) with the meter at any time.
They might also want to see that cavity-closers have been fitted where needed.
that lintels existed before or have been fitted
Properly accredited installers will have an exemption as they self certify under FENSA.
Yes - but I am proposing DIY.
The installation firm will be self-certified. They are supposed to send a note to the BCO or use the LA website to send details, just like heatng engineers are supposed to.
Surely replacement windows only have to be 'C' rated ?. That was the case when I bought 3 replacements from the local BM in 2014 and fitted them myself. They were made by Crystal Windows (cheap 'n' cheerful). Most of the adverts I see these days from local firms show a range of prices for 'C' rated, 'A' rated and triple glazed. The extra for triple glazed isn't significantly higher than standard C-rated glass but triple glazed panels are 50% heavier so you have to consider the quality of the frame, the hinges and the type of wall construction that will support it.
According to a technical note that I found on the Pilkington website, it doesn't actually make that much difference though. I have a printout somewhere, must try and dig it out.
Not in an existing property where the cavity was 'closed' with brick slips mortared onto the inner leaf. Here the window is physically mounted into the outer leaf with a vertical DPC in the gap so that it projects inside the cavity lapped against the outer leaf for the full depth of the window and projecting about 4 inches inside the cavity. This is now my 1976-built house was constructed.
What is important is to watch what they do with the vertical DPC. This will have been mechanically fixed to the hidden part of the original timber frame and when they cut and jemmy out the bits of the original frame there is a danger that the DPC comes with it, but it *must* be slid back into the gap between outer leaf and brick/block cavity closer and mechanically fixed.
Most Window fitters don't even bother to seal the 5mm gap between frame and brick reveal with foam, though I did see Anglian fitters doing that on a house near me. They masked off the brick reveal and after the foam had stopped expanding and set they cut it flush with the window, removed the blur protection film and glued the standard bit of quadrant upvc trim over the foamed gap.
Just do it according to the rules and do not bother with the BCO. That's what I did in 2014. They only have to be C-rated and you must comply with 'means of escape' for all upstairs windows including bathrooms (*). The company who makes the windows will normally make sure that they do.
(*) Looking around the estate where I live, about half the houses have bathroom windows that only have an opener in the top foot of the window, hinged along the top rail. I don't this is allowed under Part L.
but if fitting larger windows than original, or patio door, closers may be required
My mistake - sorry.
Any help?
That depends on where the frame is installed. New houses have to comply with tighter thermal regs and that means the frames are set back further into the cavity to reduce the cold-bridging effect of the traditional brick closer method used in pre-?2004 houses. The cavity closer is what the frame clips into.
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.