The best way to test batteries is to see how well they perform under load. Pamela posted a link to a Uniross version of the BL700 charger I mentioned, which is half the price, that will do this form of test, as well as other functions (‘charge’, ‘discharge’, ‘test’, ‘refresh’).
With the current cost of cells, you won’t have to recover many, or avoid the situation of throwing away cells that would have been good if tested in a more appropriate fashion.
But iirc you have a multimeter, which is all you need to test nicd & nimh.
I do, but I thought a load had to be introduced for an accurate test. Do batteries not over-read if they have no load?
Is it made in Germany (as Technoline claims to be) or in China? This could account for the price difference.
Found it on rear of packagaing - made in PRC (China).
No, but it doesnt tell you what it will deliver to a load.
Is checking the voltage between the terminals of a battery sufficient to test the condition of the battery? If not, what more is needed?
No.
An appropriate load and what is appropriate varies with the battery.
Obviously the load that is appropriate with a coin cell isnt the same as with a Li ion 18650 which is used to power a massive great led torch or device with a motor.
For NiCd & NiMH, voltage testing is fine. For alkalines & ZnC, voltage testing is mostly fine, but not always. Testing both voltage and current pulse ability tells you the full story. Voltage test with a load is a way to do 1 test only, and get a mostly adequate answer.
Not really, as the discharge curves are pretty flat. They will read "mostly full" until just before the are empty.
Thomas Prufer
I thought that. I assume this is why the setting on the dial, and the position to plug in the red lead, are different for battery testing and voltage checking.
I assume this means the multimeter can only check 1.5 volt cells and not 1.2 volt (rechargeables). It is very old.
I am still wondering if I can rely on the green light on the charger or if more testing is needed.
Only if you cant read.
In fact the discharge curve is well known, entirely predictable and very useful
Anything over 1.2v is 'fully charged' anything under 1.1v is 'flat'
In between the relationship between voltage and charge is extremely linear.
I wonder if the drop test really works, I guess I should try it at some point.
Not with the worst of the chargers.
Yes, particularly the fancy chargers that have a discharge and battery test mode when deciding if its time to bin the battery.
Took me a while to realise that that bugger is actually speaking english.
Interesting tho.
which is fine.
it's a multimeter, you just need clues.
The clue I am looking for is whether these batteries can be used or whether they should go into the recycling at Tesco.
No multimeter and appropriate load will tell you that.
You need the best of the chargers to tell you that and whether it makes economic sense to buy one of those depends on how many recargable batteries you have which are doubtful.
That's what I thought and why I was puzzled by some of the previous responses.
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