In fact, we haven't had to use the 'compatible' charger for a couple of months because I bought my wife an iPad and that came with an Apple charger that also charges her iPod.
I kept the compatible charger as a 'spare' but, in view of what you say, I'll consign it to the bin.
Most unlikely to have anything to do with Usenet. The term 'NewsReader' is mostly associated with RSS these days.
NewsTap (Usenet Newsreader) is in the iTunes App Store.
"You must be at least 17 years old to download this application"
Must be good then....
:-)
Low Voltage Halogen? Probably an electronic 'transformer' is in circuit, the design of which has some leakage issues particulary near the inlet power filter. Disasemble and snap a picture of it?
Wise, for the small amount they cost.
If it were me, I'd stick my Megger across it (ie short all the inputs, short all the outputs then across the pair) on the 500V setting. If it survived that with a high enough reading (say at least 10Megohms) , I'd be happy again.
On the newsgroup front: the google app now has some integration with the Sa= fari app on an iPhone but it's a bit clunky AFAICT: if you go to the normal= group web page in Safari and find the thread your interested in, there is = a link in the right sidebar that says 'try the new google groups experience= ' this reconfigures the display to suit mobile viewing and is much better w= ith the posts laid out in tabs one atop the other. It could do with a link = to your star marked threads though, so one can easily navigate to a current= /favourite thread! Try it and see what you think.
Right... I have my Rapitest MAS830L Can I use that? Not sure about all of the settings on it as I only use the audible buzzer on it for continuity :)
I have been looking for a manual / user guide for it!
Ok. Had some time to really think about this now.
Narrowed it down to the tingling caused when touching cabinet and tap, or with bare feet on the tiled floor, it doesn't happen with shoes on, just touching the cabinet.
So, I have set my DMM to 200VAC and probed the cabinet door and the mixer tap below it... result gives varied readings, starting as high as 10.4 and dropping always to
00.1VAC (is this dissipating through merely touching/probing?)I also probed from the cabinet to a nearby towel rail... and get similar results
And between the cabinet and a fly lead connected to the earth block in the understairs cupboard.
The reading seem to be all over the place on all these test points, but always quickly drop to 00.1
I also get readings by moding over to 2VDC
What can I deduce from these figures?
with bare feet on the tiled floor, it doesn't happen with shoes on, just t= ouching the cabinet.
tap below it...
s to =A000.1VAC (is this dissipating through merely touching/probing?)
e understairs cupboard.
lways quickly drop to 00.1
I'm no expert when it come to mains wiring but heres my interpretation
Tiled floor (assuming glazed ceramic) would be a good insulator and no route to earth, so attempting readings between floor and anything else wouldn't be meaningfull
readings on the 2VDC would also be fairly meaningless , try holding on to the probes, you'll prob see a similar readings. Your body will be acting as an aerial of picking up electrical noise, the digital meters are very sensitive
If the readings drop off quickly that would suggest to me some kind of filtering capacitor which you are discharging. possibly an input capacitor on the transformer
Martin
There is a small capacitor connected between line and the case. Which quickly discharges through the resistance of the meter.
So, does this mean the cabinet is still the source of the problem? Could it be that the pipework to the tap is not bonded to earth? Also by holding the probes just between my hands give a 0 reading and the meter isn't picking anything up just from the air. Or as was originally suggested ( by yourself?) is this all down to the leakage from the cabinet under permissible levels? I still want to get rid of it!
We still need an answer to the question of whether the cabinet is marked with a double insulated logo. Of even a note of if it even has an earth wire connection.
Chances are for a specifically designed bathroom cabinet it will have a two wire feed, and a double insulated transformer for the lights. The case of which will be non conductive. Hence any mains coupling to the case would be capacitive (but not via a "capacitor" as such).
bare feet on the tiled floor, it doesn't happen with shoes on, just touching the cabinet.
below it...
00.1VAC (is this dissipating through merely touching/probing?)You might want to verify if there is continuity (i.e. stick DMM on a low ohms range) between the tap and main earth terminal before using it as a "known" ground reference.
understairs cupboard.
quickly drop to 00.1
It would suggest any mains connection is a very high impedance one - i.e. the moment you try to draw even a tiny current, the voltage falls away. This would be consistent with a lump of metal that is capacitively coupled to mains just by virtue of being in close proximity to a mains wire.
If you had a hard connection to mains on the cabinet, then the reading between that and the main earth terminal would have given a very solid ~240V reading.
Its getting a bit tricky working out what you are replying to, since you have removed all context, and google groups is breaking the threading (as its does from time to time)...
You probably don't have a problem in reality. If via a DMM on a voltage measurement range you see small quickly decaying voltages when you probe between the cabinet and the main earth terminal.
It probably is. However one would need to check if you are going to use it as a reference point for doing further tests.
meter isn't picking anything up just from the air.
from the cabinet under permissible levels? I still want to get rid of it!
We need to know if the cabinet has an earth connection or not, and if it requires one or not. My *guess* would be that it does not, and it does not require one.
Hi John. Sorry about the referencing & threading, I'm subscribing to this thread via= my iPhone which doesn't integrate very well with groups.
I have taken the top off the cabinet whilst in situ, there are no labels on= the outside of it pertaining to electrical specs, only one about halogen l= amps being very hot. Inside the top, the electrical gear consists if a stan= dard low voltage lamp transformer/konvertor ( it's German). There is an ear= th wire from the mains connected directly to the metal casing, via an enclo= sed choc block and a crimped earth terminal (hoop). The 'konvertor' is mark= ed with the double insulated box icon! So, from what's been posted, does th= is mean the tingling is not caused by poor component leakage? Should I be c= hecking the continuity of the earthing on the main line in?
Many thanks for the assistance, Deano
Is any part of the 'konvertor' metallic and in contact with cabinet?
Knowing the cabinet itself is earthed, the leakage you're seeing could be reaching it from any other appliance(s) in your house.
Is the earth wire connected to any metal parts on the cabinet body? If so, and you're getting a 'tingle', that earth isn't connected or other things in the room are above earth. It's normal in a bathroom to have all conducting parts bonded together.
Dave AND Andy (how does one respond to 2 posters in one reply?)
Right, am now on my laptop so typing and posting is easier!
Taking it from the top...
The konvertor is plastic casing, just like any normal downlighter transform= er, you'd find in a ceiling void. The twin and earth flex comes into the top of the cabinet gear casing, is h= eld by a bracket to keep it from pulling at other connections. The cores then go into the clip-shut choc block, then the brown(live) goes = to a rocker switch (rubber membrane covering) then onto the konvertor; blue= (neutral) -> konvertor; green/yellow(earth) to the cabinet outer casing whe= re it is fixed to the casing with a screwed/clamp terminal.
The cabinet came with the flex coming out the top, all ready to connect to = the mains... no need to open casing. This was connected, through the wall, = to a recessed, switched FSU - inside my kitchen 'utility cupboard', purpose= built to house dryer, washing machine and fridge freezer with all relevant= plumbing feeds, electrical feeds and drainage.
I am now planning to check... a) The connections inside the FSU to see if earth has come loose b) temporarily bond the plumbing pipework in utility cupboard to earth as s= ome sections have been replaced in the house, with plastic, over the years = and am wondering if the route to earth has been broken somewhere.
Does all this provide further clues to you guys in solving this debacle :)
I can photobucket images of the top of the cabinet if needs be, but the cab= inet has been installed 'as it came' and it must have been tested before le= aving the factory!
So I'm pretty sure now that the fault is elsewhere but bow to your superior= knowledge and experience... until I do my part P, hopefully this year.
My guess is the ECC to the transformer isn't connected to anything. Is the house wiring old? No earths on lighting circuits some years back.
Update:
DMM gives me an audible beep between mains earth (fly lead) and cabinet casing, so cabinet is connected to earth, including upstream FSU and line feed.
ECC?
Electronically controlled coupling? Earth Circuit Cable?
could only find these on acronym finder, that seemed relevant :)
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