Argos 1/2" router

On the point of a router, if the rotation is so sloppy that it cannot be accurate then it will not only shake itself to bits it will be dangerous. The main input as to accuracy is the quality of the bit [1] and how sharp it is. Issues of fine height adjusters and micro adjustable fences are more time savers than true accuracy aids. The argument for buying a cheap router is the necessity of getting a job done within a budget. Which is why my first and second routers were Power Devils, I sunk my money into reasonably decent bits (Trend largely). The first one still runs, it has been permanently in my table since I bought the second one. When the second one died (blown upper bearings which wrecked the bushes etc) I had enough to get a T5.

If I had an urgent need to run a half inch bit (panel raising is probably the most likely use), I might be tempted by such a router, provided I could fit it on my table. Especially since decent 1/2" panel raising bits aren't cheap ;-)

[1] Caveats about pushing the motor too hard notwithstanding.

Peter

Reply to
Peter Ashby
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Hi,

I also have the 3/8 'Xtreme' router, on mine the plunge lock lever sheared where it's moulded to fit on a hex nut.

Also it was very hard to get the 1/4" collet to grip router bits well, they would tend to go loose while it was running!

I think the 1/2" router mentioned above would be OK, as long as care is taken if the plunge lock lever is the same sort of plastic.

The g'tee can be extended to 3 years for a fiver, and Argos are pretty good at refunds if it's crap or breaks.

Probably worth having as a cheap second router to put in a table which is what I'll do with my 3/8" one.

cheers, Pete.

Reply to
Pete C

I disagree. Inappropriate weight for the tool type or it being in the wrong place is one of the main indicators of a cheap product made to a price vs. one designed to do a proper job.

Reply to
Andy Hall

That's one factor. Another, in terms of both safety and outcome is how well the plunge mechanism works. If it isn't silky smooth then the motor will tend to jump in height during plunge and release causing defects to the cut and the user not being able to prevent slight movements in the wrong direction as it jumps.

But the money spent on the Power Devils could have gone towards the cost of the T5 and the overall investment would have been less.

I do agree about getting decent bits such as Trend, CMT and Freud.

I think you would be disappointed. The mechanical watts output of this class of router is poor for the input power. It's the same marketing as laser guides on tools. Claim a power of 2000W vs. the proper router's 1800W and it looks as though the former is better. Tick in the box. The fact that it is misleading and that laser guides are mainly ornamental is pure marketing.

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Reply to
Andy Hall

I do feel you're missing the point by some considerable margin. Being a bit heavy could well not be a problem for infrequent use, where it would be a problem for regular use. Frequency of use is relevant in determining what qualities a tool requires.

clive

Reply to
Clive George

Not at all.

There are many more factors in ergonomics than the weight. About the only tool that has pretty much a weight/durability argument is an SDS drill. The entry level ones often weigh considerably more than the mid range professional 2kg models. I would agree that if one were using each all day, then the heavier one is more likely to cause fatigue. However, none of these would be described as being for precision work. A router, and indeed many other woodworking power tools are used where precision is expected. For these, the weight is one factor. The location of it, but much more importantly, the balance and handling and quality of the mechanisms are much more important. It really doesn't matter for these factors whether the tool is used for 20 minutes a month or 20 hours a week, if these factors aren't right, the results are likely to be poor.

Reply to
Andy Hall

To slightly misquote a character on Open All Hours tonight, "'Twere the wife decided I were a keen d-i-yer."

Owain

Reply to
Owain

Except that at the time I couldn't afford both a T5 and the Trend bits I needed. As I said the first one is still doing sterling service inverted in the table. That means it gets all the bigger diameter 8mm bits.

I agree that it is indeed underpowered for a 1/2" router, however it will still take 1/2" bits and used carefully there is no reason why it can't do a job perfectly adequately. You will for eg spend more hiring one for the weekend.

Peter

Reply to
Peter Ashby

Ah. Must admit that I have never used 8mm bits although I have collets for them.

Most of mine are 12,7mm with a few 6,35mm.

This is the amount of use question again. I do wonder about an underpowered router and a panel raising cutter though.

Reply to
Andy Hall

Well not having a 1/2" router and not up to now really needing one 8mm collets give you larger diameter bits than you can get with 1/4" collets. So I have a Trend rebating set that is significantly bigger than the 1/4" equivalent and Trend even do an 8mm panel raiser, its vertical rather than horizontal so you would need a tall fence on the table but it does enable panel raising on 8mm. That was why I went for Power Devil routers at the start, they came with 8mm collets.

Peter

Reply to
Peter Ashby

Is there any real significance in this '12·7mm' and '6·35mm' stuff?

Why not ½ or ¼ inch, which it really is?

Reply to
Frank Erskine

I still can't afford a T5. Obsolete design and vastly over-priced. I also do 90% of my routing with the same bit. Not much cost there.

One of these days I might get a Triton, but for the moment the Freuds (although one's an AEG and slightly better made) will do me fine. They're also one of the cheapest 1/2" routers around, once you're out of the Argos crap-pile.

Reply to
Andy Dingley

It's probably illegal to call it such, under the "prevention of straight bananas act" However if you ever find a 6mm collet or a 6mm cutter, throw them away before you mix them up. They'll come loose and throw themselves at you.

Reply to
Andy Dingley

Apparently not, in view of a recent backslide by the 'EU' (or whatever it calls itself this week).

Reply to
Frank Erskine

Because I work in metric.

All of my fixed machinery has metric scales only.

I have some measuring instruments such as an Aigner Distometer, which is used to help set up machines, which also has metric reading only.

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I'm using this to set up a router cutter in the spindle moulder, I am certainly going to be thinking about 12.7mm bits (or whatever size the bit is). Mix the systems of units together and there is sooner or later going to be an expensive mistake.

There are one or two that I have like a Vogel electronic caliper which has buttons to select between metric and deprecated imperial units. The button has to be pressed for a while to switch. The display is reasonably smart in that if it is set to imperial, it will show 0.75 inches as 3/4 in. Thus it's possible to see that it is set to the wrong system of measurement. I used to have a cheap caliper, since thrown away, which had decimal inches on the display when set to inches. Under those circumstances with small amounts of distance, it's possible to make mistakes. For example, 0.3 inches and 3mm if the display isn't very good.

Gradually I've been throwing out tape measures, and rules etc.with dual inch/mm markings. These things are useless because the wanted measurement system is always on the opposite side to the side wanted.

Reply to
Andy Hall

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I must conclude that you are first and foremost a tool junkie. Do you get time to do any woodwork?

Reply to
Stuart Noble

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I'm

Frequently. I like to get things right though and not waste material through making silly mistakes by mixing units. The only junkie aspect I'd admit to are the hand planes.

Reply to
Andy Hall

Wickes have a blue range too - three ranges in all. The guarantees are 1, 3 and 5 years for each range. The pro grey Kress SDS drills are about the best pro SDS around for price/performance/quality.

Reply to
Doctor Drivel

Well one reason is that as our cousins across the pond are always bitching about, sheet material is now 6mm, 9mm, 12mm and 18mmm. They all have 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" and 3/4" cutters. So their panels are always rattling in their grooves.

Only 3/8"/9mm is close enough not to matter.

So for straight cutters and rebaters it matters and it pays to care.

Peter

Reply to
Peter Ashby

The Triton is a nice machine, I've seen it demonstrated and laid hands on one. It's a bit bulky for handheld work though, I'd be inclined to stick one in the table if I had one.

Peter

Reply to
Peter Ashby

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