Anyone in here interested in electronics

Sep 17, 2025 Last reply: 10 months ago 34 Replies
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Don't use hot air. First, flood the SOIC legs and pads with 60/40 solder just in case they used lead-free which has a significantly higher melting point. Then wick off as much as you can. Use extra flux, particularly if your solder wick isn't fresh. You should then have only a very thin layer of solder left under the legs

If you want to save the chip go round each leg in turn, levering it gently with a small crowbar (hypodermic needles work well) while touching it with your iron till it detaches from the pad, often with a slight ping. Even if you don't want to save the chip, this is still a good method as cutting the legs can bend them and unstick the pad.

Then clean up again with solder wick and bobzyerunkul.

I must have done this hundreds of times, and also on much smaller parts (0.4mm pitch) albeit using a stereo microscope. (*Dissection* microscope seems to be a key word, you want 10x or maybe 20x.)

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60/40 (63/37 is actually the eutectic) starts to melt at 183C but the lowest temperature lead-free solder starts at 221C and could easily start at 230C or so depending on the alloy used.

... except that I want to keep the SOIC I am removing...

Well use lots of lead/tin and flux to soften it up and the moment your tweezers separate it, shut off the heat

I have had good results with a solder sucker.

I have loads of Germanium transistors.

I did originally consider something like this approach TBH; there are suggestions about using a length of thin 'non-solder-compatible' wire, pulling under the legs of the SOIC. I also considered using a scalpel blade.

Your suggestion of a thin needle is interesting; thanks. As you say, cutting the legs has other issues...

J^n

I'd say that once you have hot air available to you, all those other methods are obsolete. Hot air it and once it's moving, just pick up the component with tweezers (or a vacuum pick if you have one, they are handy).

Anything which involves mechanical force is at risk of damaging the tracks. If you need to use force, you haven't done the hot air right. The part should slide right off with no force.

There are fancy things you can do with different sized tips (prevents overspill and focuses the heat on a specific area), masking with bacofoil and bottom-heat from a hotplate (means the hot air needs to do less work) but after a bit of practice a simple hot air pencil moved around can be made to do a lot of the same jobs - not as well or as fast but good enough.

Vacuum picks are surprisingly cheap - a basic rubber bulb affair is under £2:

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electric for sub-£20:
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tried either of those)

The nice thing about vacuum picks is you can move the component some distance without worry about it falling out of the tweezers, and they can pick up parts like QFPs where there is nowhere to grab without bending legs.

Theo

Hi Theo thanks for these useful (as always, from you) comments. I am a bit curious about the relative dissing of the use of a hot air gun here. I am aware there are lots of variables, and as mentioned I intend to do some practicing, but it does seem to be pretty much the standard approach 'out there'.

My recent employer was doing BGA soldering by hand, which was a surprise to me given the trouble I remember some years ago when BGAs were coming in, but that's progress for you. I do *not* intend to be doing any of that...

Cheers J^n

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I have hot air available. No way would I use it for a SOIC, and really, honestly, I've done this hundreds of times.

I did one a few days ago. A 100 pin FPGA salvaged from a scrap PCB and used to replace one on my otherwise working PCB. It wasn't easy, but it wasn't a comparatively massive SOIC either.

I wouldn't call SOICs massive (up to what, 28 pins?) - if they're the same scale as the tip of the hot air pencil then it's possible to direct air at all sides together. Many SOICs are 0.15" wide SO-8, SO-16 etc which are smaller.

I can see more of a problem for jumbo 100+ pin QFPs that are a couple of inches on a side, which are too big to get air at all the pins at once. You need bottom heat, plus there are special tips which are a duct to just the four edges to avoid wasting air on the centre. With the pencil alone you're racing against one side cooling down as you heat the other side.

Theo

Some tips;

get some decent rework flux, and some capton tape so you can protect adjacent bits (desoldering an IC, and blowing lots of *tiny* passives off the board never to be seen again is a tad annoying (DAMHIK)).

I am quite a fan of the "ChipQuick" low melting point bismuth alloy solder. You apply that to the pins of the IC with an iron, and it mixes with the existing solder and allows it all to stay liquid long enough to remove a device without any hassle.

There is another trick that works well for this kind of thing. Grab some flat T&E cable of a decent size - say 2.5mm, and strip down a length of

2.5mm^2mm copper, Now fold that up into a "frame" that will lay over the pins of the device you are removing. Add flux and then apply a generous amount of tin/lead solder all along the copper - bridging all the pins together. The extra mass of the wire, and the conductivity will allow you to get all the pins molten at once with a normal iron. You can then lift off the (undamaged) device, and clean up with flux and braid. (dip the braid in flux first for best results)

(you can do it on DIL packages without the wire - just using a large mass of solder and two irons to heat both sides at once)

Thanks for the tips John. I have some Kapton tape and recently bought a syringe's worth of flux.

I had read mention of ChipQuick but had not yet read up on what it comprises; thanks for the info. There used to be a practical joke advertised in children's comics of a metal spoon which melted when used in a mug of hot tea etc. IIRC that was a bismuth alloy? To my surprise, I read that bismuth metal has very low toxicity.

I have found my faulty laptop motherboard for practicing on; I plan on reporting back here after I have done some practicing and had a go with my real microproject...

Cheers J^n

Another trick is to heat pins one by one, and slip the tape under them as you go along.

Thomas Prufer

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