An IKEA question

Assuming you have skirting boards, you'll have at least that depth available behind the cabinet.

Yes, that's fine.

I should have said, I have been advised to remove the skirting boards. If I do this, will there still be enough of a gap between the back of the carcase and the back panel to accommodate a blanking plate only?

Thanks I assumed this would be the case. (I have given up on the separate lightswitch query as I am arranging for an electrician to attend to took at a number of anomalies.)

Most IKEA cabinets go flush to the wall. Why not give us the name, some one will probably have used the same unit.

It also appears low profile or flat blanking plates are available...

Dave

Good point. It's this one I think:

I understand the carcase masy go flush to the wall. However, one of the three explanations I was given by IKEA is that the back panel of the cabinet is recessed by 1 cm into the carcase which should give adequate space for my purpose. I need to verify this before the electrician comes in so I can explain what I am trying to achieve.

A steel blanking plate has less thickness than a white one.

You can usually get a good clue by looking at the assembly instructions:

That would give you some clearance, but only the depth of the slot frame. I would guess 5mm or so. There could be slightly more leeway if the slot has a bit of slop to get the backing in (guess maybe 2mm more).

I'd query why it needs to go flush to the wall though? Ikea instructions always tell you to screw things to the wall, but if you're sensible about loading (don't put all the heavy items on the top shelf) it's usually fine unless you have children or pets which might climb or pull the item over, or high drawers which might cause a heavy load to bear away from the wall.

If it were me I'd just leave the socket in place and live with a few mm of gap. It's quite possible the wall isn't perfectly vertical anyway.

Or you could cut a hole in the backing (it's only hardboard) so the socket comes through to the unit. That could even be useful if you have some need for power inside (eg if you were going to put your hifi in there or some other gear).

Theo

I think I might try that as well, unless it fouls where a shelf will go. Pretty sure that given the slot, a thin blanking plate will fit...

Dave

There's the depth of the slot frame, plus the thickness of the spacers numbered

It'll fit...

Thomas Prufer

I see what you mean. 8 and 9 support this. Thanks for posting.

A friend of mine is seeking to persuade me that it would be neater to cut the skirting board round the unit.

Or charging the Dyson, I suppose.

This is a very interesting point. Until now I did not realise these existed.

Interestingly, the electrician said on the phone that a crimp is better than a connector block and that it is best practice for the junction to be accessible for maintenance.

If there is a possibility of the socket being reinstalled at a later date perhaps a Wago connector is better.

Yes, he also mentioned a Wago connector as a possibility. Says he will look at the options after the wiring check.

A Good excuse to buy a multi-tool then, to get a nice clean cut and no collateral damage to surrounding plaster

If the back box is hidden behind the unit, why bother with a blanking plate at all ?