I was quoting from the draft. If you want the final version I'm sure you can find it.
Oh I do agree that there are an awful lot of biased and prejudiced people around, making it really hard to get rational, objective assessment of possible improvements.
And encourage people to pour any excess hot water into the bowl when doing the washing up - at least then the energy used in heating the excess doesn't go to waste. Mind you, I suppose in theory any heat that is wasted in appliances or in running the oven/kettle for longer than necessary reduces (slightly) the amount of energy that the central heating needs to use ;-) Except on a hot day when you have the windows open to keep the house cool.
I'm amazed at the number of people who say that they don't need their heating on in summer. There seems to be a school of thought which says that between this day in spring and that day in autumn, the CH will be turned off. You can get cold days even during summer, and cloudless summer skies means it gets cold in the evening and overnight.
I have always had the CH on the same timer throughout the year, and let the thermostat do the job of determining whether the CH needs to come on due to unseasonably cold weather.
I've never understood why it is thought to be beneficial to heat the bedroom to a lower temperature than other rooms. When I'm lying still in bed, and I've not eaten for a while (so I'm not metabolising food) I get cold - especially the parts that aren't under the bedclothes. And wearing a hat in bed is not the answer: the itchiness and the bulk of a hat make it impossible to sleep, and it still doesn't keep nose/cheeks warm.
There seems to be very little correlation between room temperature and (my) perception of cold/warmth: I've often found that I feel comfortably warm when the room temp is getting below 20 and the CH kicks in, and yet sometimes I feel cold when it's 25. A lot depends on whether I'm sitting still or moving around, and when I last ate.
Depends on the area of the base of the kettle and the height of the top of the element above the base. If the kettle is a small diameter and has an element that rises only a few mm above the base, less depth of water is needed to cover the element and the depth amounts to less volume, compared with an ancient kettle with a very wide base and an element that stands a long way off the bottom.
Comparison between a modern jug kettle and my parents' first (early 1960s) kettle with the handle on the top rather than the side, a very wide, squat design and an element where the *bottom* of it was about 1 cm above the base of the kettle and the top was a good 2 cm above that because the element was curved at the ends/sides and not flat.
Its different with kettles because you can't use the easy figure of registered kettles and are much more likely to assume one per household or maybe 1.x per household.
Bore hole rather than a buried slinky pipe perhaps. You need a water body within reasonable reach. Developer is considering it for a 4 house development here despite mains gas across the lane.
Yup, I was not suggesting it was a good idea, but it would be simpler than some convoluted social engineering effort brought about by banning gas heating etc.
and it seems steam propelled - it simmers for about 20 seconds and then dumps the water into a cup over 10 seconds or so. And while very hot, by the time it's in the cup it's not boiling.
I can't think the difference with a kettle is that great, but I notice it.
Just one cup at a time (250ml IIRC - but a mug full in any event). It's what I wanted (and happened to be discounted at Sainsbury's when I bought it), but you can get them with variable output.
Yes. £5.99 in asda. Something else TNP is out of touch with. But he still doesn't understand that there is a world out there that he doesn't know about. He would make a good MEP.
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