Advice please on moving soil stack

[jethro_uk]

Hi all

at present, my soil stack is an ugly rusting thing. Our house is an "L" shaped bungalow on the corner of the road. The longer sides face the road, and the shorter sides face the back garden.

The soil stack is situated right in the corner of the back (where the 2 shorter sides meet). It goes up about 6'6", and then has an angled piece to carry it higher than the guttering.

Apart from looking ugly, the gap between the pipe and the fascia is about 4" ... and that's after I put some stand offs on the wall to try and move it off a bit.

Ideally I'd like to replace it with a plastic one.

Questions :

1) Looking at the base, it appears the existing pipe just comes out of the concrete. How exactly does the pipe mate with the sewer, and how would I need to get a new plastic pipe to seal tightly ?

2) Instead of the angled bend, I'd like to put the pipe through the eaves, throught the loft, and use a weather slate to pass it to the outside. However, if I follow the line of the pipe directly up through the eaves, it hits the gulley where the two angles of the roof meet. There's about 6" clearance between the eaves and the gulley. Is this enough to make an bend INSIDE the loft, and bring the pipe out somewhere else ?

3) What would be involved in moving the whole thing ?

Thanks in advance all

[jethro_uk]

could I use an air admittance valve to remove the need for the stack ?

[Owain]

Probably cast iron into an earthenware socket, cemented. Plumber's merchants will have CI>earthenware, plastic>earthenware and plastic>CI adaptors, covering all eventualities in black squidgy rubber. Possibly the CI continues through the concrete, you can use a plastic>cast adapter instead of digging up the pipe below the concrete.

Posisbly not with a 4" pipe; I would bend horizontally and then vertically against the wall but away from the corner below eaves level, then go up through the soffit.

helluvalotta work and a building regulations application.

(And there are only limited places you can use an air admittance valve)

Owain

[Andy]

The stack probably fits into an salt glazed clay pipe inside the concrete. Be careful chopping into this, the clay pipe can fracture. You can get plastic adapters to meet your requirements, though it might take a bit of headscratching to figure out which to use. Mate the assembly together, and seal in position with concrete. The concrete will prevent any leakage. In fact the standard bodge for a leaking glazed clay pipe is to cast concrete around the leak.

The rest I don't know,

Andy.

[David Hansen]

On 19 Sep 2006 09:11:03 -0700 someone who may be jethro [e-mail] wrote this:-

As others have said, probably an earthenware pipe.

You certainly need to get to seal tightly:-) As has been said plastic adapters and cement are options. Don't test the joint before the cement has set.

Thus making a hole in the roof, which (like all holes in the roof) may leak. Far better, in my view, to minimise the number of holes in the roof by keeping the existing arrangement, but perhaps neatening it up.

This is the sort of job where the council's Building Control people know what they are talking about and are an invaluable source of advice. Contact them and ask.