I'm surprised to see a difference between Duracell Procell and Duracell standard alkalines. I thought they were the same, except the packaging?
Would have liked to see Lidl, Aldi & Ikea too.
I'm surprised to see a difference between Duracell Procell and Duracell standard alkalines. I thought they were the same, except the packaging?
Would have liked to see Lidl, Aldi & Ikea too.
clean a mouse last week when one leaked in it.
From the comments in the link, it might be that leaving any battery in a drawer for a long time invites leaks whatever the make. All our Kirklands are in almost daily use situation and promptly disposed of when dead.
SP were blue, HP orange/red weren't they? Zinc-carbon and Zinc-chloride respectively.
I use Eneloop in some things but it depends on the voltage: some clocks dip out at ~0.95V and are OK for ~10 months (but hardly worth the use of such a cell) and others go at ~1.3V. The camera does far better on Eneloops than on primary cells. The CH wireless 'stat/programmer has 2 batteries; one gives up at ~1.4V and the 2 cells are OK for nearly a year in clocks and the other 2 cells are close to 1V so dump only. As they last about 3 years and cost 33p...
Or as one of the comments on
Yes, there are devices where alkalines work better. Generally those are low current devices where the batteries don't need changing often anyway.
MBQ
Zinc carbon are actually a better choice for very low draw devices like clocks.
Actually, sir, you may be right there...
I thought they wer eboth zinc-carbon-chloride. Both had a carbon rod in as the +ve electrode and both need an electrolyte.
I seem to recall that Ever Ready used to do SP11 (standard power) and HP11 (high power) batteries and also a C11 that was designed for the sort of clocks with a electrically actuated balance. The '11' being what we now call a C.
I thought alkaline had a lower self discharge, and therefore most suited to low draw devices like clocks?
Dunno the full reasons - but it does seem true in practice. Tesco zinc carbon seem to last longer in clocks than alkalines. And are quite a bit cheaper.
=20
Since I stopped using a personal music player that used AA cells I've found= that my charger has almost become redundant - my remaining rechargeables a= re almost all in things like DECT phones which have their own charger, and = alkaline works best for most other things. For clocks, remote controls, the= rmostats and the like rechargeables didn't really make sense when I last lo= oked, and the same was true for my torches (relatively infrequently used) = as the self discharge of rechargeables often meant they were dead just when= you needed them most, to find your way around during a power cut.=20
What I did find annoying, though, was that my old digital camera didn't lik= e rechargeables - it would take maybe a couple of shots before giving up, w= hile a reasonable alkaline (I found Kodak quite good, which echoes the test= s mentioned by the OP) would last for many more. My newer camera is so much= less power-hungry that I've not yet had to replace the battery...=20
I specifically mentioned the low self discharge ones, I've left them in torches, cameras and little-used remotes for over about 18 months and they still have plenty of juice when called on ...
If the old camera didn't like the 1.2v or so of a rechargeable, it probably wasn't exhausting alkalines either before quitting.
Low self discharge are much better in this respect, and makes in more reasonable to use them insuch things, as they will hold charge for a lot longer time.
Unusal, in most digicams, alkalines don't perform well, appearing to run flat much quicker than NimH
I had the same problem and nearly threw the camera out. Eneloops fixed it.
Yes, I'll probably be revisiting this next time I need batteries - the last time I checked was a while ago and things have moved on...
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