Hi all. I think the makita/dewalt/blue-bosch are too expensive for my taste this time. I will be trench cutting for the door frame members. And it needs to be very accurate.
8 inch/210mm blade is more thn enough.Cost wise - nearer £100 than £200
Any suggestions?
Thanks.
Arthur
I believe these are going for £80 but nearer to the £100 mark incl P&P
Screwme are doing a Makita for £100,will this do you?
just screams quality.
Arthur
it might be ok. But I think ebay is the only way of buying these in the uk so parts might be service would be difficult.
thanks.
Arthur
The Metabo KGS255
For a £100 you will get near enough accuracy.For what you want to do is accurate enough. Take a look at the Axminster ones these are decent enough for the job.
You didn't mention you wanted a slide you twit :-)
I've had an Axminster 10" SCMS for 3 years, very pleased with it, but it won't trench.
I did mention that I will be trench cutting. Who the heck wants concave trenches? :)
Arthur
You won't get "very accurate" and trench cut from a £100 SCMS. A proper one like the LS1013 or DW708 at around £400 will do that, but the cuts will be laborious because of the blade thickness.
This is really something for either a radial arm saw or a table saw equipped with dado tooling. Alternatively, it could be done by a router and suitable jig. It could be worth constructing a jig if you have a lot to do.
You won't get "very accurate" and trench cut from a £100 SCMS. A proper one like the LS1013 or DW708 at around £400 will do that, but the cuts will be laborious because of the blade thickness.
This is really something for either a radial arm saw or a table saw equipped with dado tooling. Alternatively, it could be done by a router and suitable jig. It could be worth constructing a jig if you have a lot to do.
A router table with sliding top will do the job quite well and a better finish than a saw.
I'd agree about the RAS. I cut half laps in seven 4 x 4 deck balustrade posts on Thursday night using my RAS. Could have used my dado head, but by the time I had fitted it, it was quicker to just cut kerfs, hammer out the waste & tidy up with a sharp chisel.
A table saw that will take a dado is about as common as rocking horse droppings. They are made with short arbours these days to comply with the speed brake regs. Effin Softy again.
Router & jig OK depending on the thickness of material to be removed, needs multiple passes even with a big mofu router.
And exactly where in my original post do I state that I wish that the power tool that I am looking for is to have a second use as my mother's sex toy?
Arthur
I just know these things Arthur :-)
You mitre kept it to yourself!
Arthur
ROFL!
Actually no. Mine has this facility. The issue is that the braking arrangement of the saw has to be able to bring to a halt within
10 seconds, *with* any tooling intended to work with it.The typical U.S. table saw is designed to be able to take a stacked dado cutter consisting of several plate segments and spacers set up to form a cutter able o cut grooves to a defined width. The problem is that such cutter sets add considerable mass to the spindle and so when the power is cut off, the momentum of the mechanics means that the cutter continues spinning for a considerable time - certainly over ten seconds.
Since the manufacturers of basic table saws for the European market have not wanted to modify them to improve braking for cost reasons, the simple way out for them is to prevent anything heavier than a standard blade from being fitted.
However, if the manufacturer can come up with a solution that does meet the stopping requirements, they are at liberty to sell it, quite legally.
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