60/70s style cement coping stones !

My sister would like to repair about 3M of these old coping stones but so far I've not found them on any sites. They're the style with a top section, like an upturned shallow bowl with a flat rim and 150mm wide. They also have block-wide slot in the base to go over the wall. Are they still available or is she going to have to replace the lot?

Andy C

Reply to
Andy Cap
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I can't imagine that they are not available still.

BMs are notoriously poor at listing products and pictures on their websites. B&Q are appalling, wickes not bad as are travis perkins You might just have to go along to a proper BM and enquire or just mooch around in their yard. handle with care as they are pretty fragile and no rebar inside.

Reply to
Bob Minchin

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Reply to
Chris Hogg

No afraid not. They're flat and the edges.

Reply to
Andy Cap

I've looked in B&Q and Wickes. As you say, I guess I'm going to have to tour the BMs. At least we've got a few locally.

Reply to
Andy Cap

Photo or sketch?

Reply to
Andy Burns

Try a reclaim yard

NT

Reply to
meow2222

cast your own?

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

That would be the simplest way to guarantee a match.

Reply to
Nightjar

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Reply to
Andy Cap

True, but more work than I'm inclined to undertake ! She might have to settle for a different pattern on one side of the steps

Reply to
Andy Cap

Its actually quite easy.

3mm ply will make a strong enough mould and greased up you can do one per day at this time of year..give or take.

In fact for a curve 1.6mm ply is enough...or make a silicone rubber cast of what's already there.

You might even be able to make a sand cast style mould..

Casting concrete is - well FUN.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

That's what I thought you meant. Cast up some spiffing new ones.

jigsaw end plates out of 1/2" ply and form the curve from 1/16" ply - add stiffening with external ribbing and car body filler.

Then grease the thing up with heavy grease, pour the (fairly liquid, high cement and sand low ballast) concrete in and agitate to get bubbles out and whack a block in to form the rebate.

leave for about 6 hours and then wiggle it out and leave to set properly for 48 hours and do another one.

can even put rebar in for real strength

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

Its one of those jobs that once stuck in isn't as hard as you think, or as time consuming...

I reckon 2-3hrs to make a mould maximum

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

Thanks for the pointers. Funnily enough, my neighbour has just cast some extras for his rather palatial patio. Firstly though, I'm going to post my sketch around the local yards, in the hope there a few left somewhere !

Thanks

Reply to
Andy Cap

1% synthetic fibres increases tensile strength significantly, reducing cracking & damage. From clothing, carpets etc. And it wont rust.

Diesel works as a release agent, buy my favourite is polythene. If you get it flat without rucks, it gives the product a really smooth finish. Use nice thick stuff eg from rubble bags and it lies down better.

NT

Reply to
meow2222

Yes, cast them. I cast some 'manhole' frames and covers when I couldn't buy what I wanted, and they have been fine. I lined the mould with clingfilm, other than that did much the same as The Natural Philosopher

Bill

Reply to
Bill Wright

I was thinking of sand moulds as being simple, cheap and easy to make several moulds at one time. It is the way my father did it when I were a lad and got me to help him (i.e. I did all the heavy work)

Reply to
Nightjar

Ideally you would want to vibrate the air out of the concrete and a wooden mould may stand up to this better. A DIY method to vibrate is to use an Electric half sheet sander (or similar) placed on the outer of the mould.

Reply to
alan_m

or make a very wet mix.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

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