Well, one of the parts for the polydryer boxes was a vertical STL about
7.5x3x0.5 inches, which I decided to lay flat for printing; turned out to be a mistake as Orca generated support that filled a "groove" in the part and was impossible to remove cleanly, also the layer lines ended-up making the part weak in a direction it needed strength, so I reprinted it vertically stnding on the 1/2" inch end, with a brim but no glue stick and it was fine, a much better part, surprised me how good.
Default for Orca seems to be slower for the first 3(?) layers, with slower fan and 10°C higher bed temperature.
I have a bottle of acetone, and considered using it, until I read that it's bad for PEI coated plates ...
Yes. I am leaning towards vertical printing to make vest use if the printer height
And like you realising that the process is inexact, and you need to drive the slicer like and artist...
I think this NG is ideal for general discussions of 3D printing.
Well let me save you the trouble. Both IPA and warm soapy water degrease perfectly and if using Pritt, warm soapy water is slightly better
Pritt plus dilution with warm water and a sponge spreads the glue just as well as a spray on coating.
Quite likely - although, they’ve still got 18 months or so to shutdown, right? Might be worth asking them if they’d add it, it’s not like they’re pulling the plug tomorrow.
The newgrouping was properly archived so any responsive NSP should have no qualms about creating it on their service if it's requested.
Assuming the filament is dry, then much depends on the type of print sheet and the type of filament.
PLA usually works on most sheets ok. PETG can stick too well on a smooth sheet, but can also lift at the corners on a textured one. (adding a "brim" in the slicer can help).
I have had best results with a "satin" textured sheet - a good all round combination of adhesion, finished surface texture, and also ease of removal from the sheet once cooled. Only down side is the sheets are more expensive.
I've only printed with ABS, but I usually print with a raft to improve adheasion. Either the raft, or the first layer of a raftless print, is done with the extruder running full-speed and moving really slow so the plastic is smushed onto the (heated) build platform. I print on painter's tape, roughened up a little. It needs replacing after a few prints, and sometimes a print does go wrong because the tape itself gets unstuck. Surfaces/tapes designed specifically for 3D printing might work better, but I'm cheap (and got used to this method before they were available).
I've asked them ...
Ooh, I've never heard of this method before... Just done some Googling on it and it looks like a great idea! I will give this a try, thanks!
Thanks for all the suggestions. I bought a (Creality) filament dryer after much research, and also the 3D Lac aerosol that was suggested. A large and quite complicated print in PETG is currently in progress and looking good so far - only another 26 hours to go!
Oh my. Wish you luck
A 220x200x140 37 hour print has completed without problems. Currently a
249x120x21 5 hour print has an hour to go so has passed the critical stage. Neither of these would have been possible before so I can highly recommend a filament dryer and the 3dLac.Have something to add? Share your thoughts — no account required.
Ask the community — no account required