Does anyone on the group have one?
If so, which one?
What software do you use to ‘drive’ it? (Including designing things)
I only use either Linux or MacOS - does anyone drive theirs from one of those?
How ‘tough’ are the parts? Is the plastic weather proof ?
Thank you.
No, but I know a man who does, and in fact a woman who does
Pass.
I am using a very old version of 3D CAD running in a windows virtual machine - Rhino CAD. But almost any 3D software can produce a suitable 'mesh'.
As to the actual driving of the machine, I think you really need windows. I could be wrong.
Windows in a VM is not a problem on modern machines, though, and IIRC my friend has a dedicated windows machine of execraably low spec simply to drive it
Extremely tough, and you can use a variety of plastics in the printer. Also if parts degrade in the sun, just print another one!
Yes
Ender 3 PRO. Bit dated now look into a Sovol V6
Cura (slicer [lots of other slicers are available]) takes the actual 3D model and makes it suitable for printing.
STL files (actual 3D model -> G-code the sliced version of the object ready for the printer
There are multitudes of 3D design programs .
Nope sorry. I have seen Linux versions (of everything) though
Depends on which 'plastic' is used PLA (the most common type) is not very sun proof (though saying that I have printed of some signs for use in the garden and they haven't discoloured or delaminated yet) whereas ABS is . Strength is very layout dependent, and again is very much influenced by type of plastic used. I wouldn't print brackets to hold valuable objects in PLA, but it is certainly handleable maybe even dropable (indeed I have made a dibber (object for making holes in the soil) for the garden and it has held up. Printing works on a layer printing on another layer it is this junction which is the limiting factor (dependent on layout rather than the plastic.
One thing to be very aware of is that 3D printing is NOT a plug and play thing the machine takes a lot of setting up and even then prints can fail for all sorts of reasons. The Ender 3 range has a massive fan base so lots and lots of advice on line. Maybe the best argument for Ender 3 nowadays
VERY basic take on 3D printing lots of sites out there which discuss/explain things in nauseating detail.
!) Obtain model, either ready made or design yourself (usually in STL format)
2) Run STL file through slicer to give g-code 3) Send G-code to printerI am very much NOT an expert on 3D printing but those are my thoughts anyway
Yes
Creality CR10S-Pro (v1). It can do bigger things (300x300x400mm build volume) than the typical Ender 3.
Cura for slicing (there's a specific Creality version but I ignore it and use general Cura with the included 'printer driver' for the CR10S Pro).
For design, mostly OpenSCAD (where you write code, not a 3D GUI). I've also played with SketchUp Make 2017 (free), FreeCAD (open source), Solidworks (pay), Siemens Solidedge (free), Solvespace (open source) and Fusion 360 (free, cloud account). I think I prefer Sketchup, Solidedge and F360 out of those.
I also heavily raid Thingiverse and other repos of other's designs: yeggi.com is a search engine for 3D designs.
Octoprint / Octopi is useful software for keeping an eye on the printer (via a camera) so it can run unattended. I haven't actually set that up yet (need to get wifi coverage for the printer first), but have played with it and it looks good.
Lots of people :-) Some of the pro CAD tools are Windows but most of the open source ones are cross platform.
SketchUp works with WINE. 3D graphics support in VMWare Fusion for Mac is quite good (occasionally things fail on it), although that's on an Intel Mac
- Windows in VMs is more complicated on Apple Silicon. But these days in the rare case I want to run Windows tools I just have an old laptop with Windows installed.
Depends on the plastic. I use PLA which isn't (it softens at 57C which may be reached in sunlight). ABS and PETg are better, but is more awkward to print. ABS and some resins can yellow in sunlight, but stay structurally sound.
I would be looking at ABS, PETg or nylon for 'mechanical' parts (eg gears), although you can go a long way using PLA if you're just prepared to overengineer things so the brittleness of PLA doesn't matter so much, and accept a shorter working life.
Theo
There appear to be some parts that feel very much like metal but are probably some metallic dust and an epoxy or something. I've seen replacement old doorhandles made this way. I don't think its that cheap though, is it? Brian
I don't have a printer, but I once needed to have a part made, so I designed it using Openscad on Linux. You basically describe geometric primitives such as cylinder, cone and so on, and can add and subtract them from each other. You end up with a script which is compiled and shown as the object, which can be rotated.
The first question is what do you want to use it for?
There are a number of different types of printer, but only two really apply for home use.
If you want large parts or to print quickly and do not need very fine detail, then one of the printers that uses a heated nozzle to extrude plastic might be best.
If you only need smaller prints, don't mind long print times, but want models with very fine detail, then one of the resin printers might be better.
It also depends on where you plan to keep and run the printer. eg resin printers use chemicals which you might not want to store in your living room, and you need somewhere to wash them. Some FDM (squirty nozzle) printers make noise that you might not want to have running near where somebody is sleeping (since prints can take many hours, it's common to run them overnight). ABS can create fumes, while PLA is mostly fume free (although can generate a little dust)
A garage or shed should be fine. Although filament absorbs moisture and you might need a filament dryer or similar to prevent prints going stringy due to damp filament. You can buy them, or there are various plans to convert plastic cake boxes and similar. (for now I just put up with stringy prints and occasional failures). Resin has other shelf life issues (no experience myself)
I think most beginners are best starting with the FDM printers, with resin only if you're into making small detailed items such as model trains or tabletop gaming figurines. Generic resins are brittle and not good for mechanical parts, although there are some special purpose ones.
Theo
Yes :-)
Creality Ender 3 V2 3D Printer
I use a couple of ultimaker 2+ ones at work.
Only tinkercad.com but you can use anything that can export a STL file. Would like to use fusions 360 but it's not quick to get started with. Our students are encouraged to use solidworks.
I use Mac only, you'd have to check with the manufactuer for what it runs on. It's the slicer that comes with my Creality Ender 3 V2 3D Printer I use at home on my Mac.
At work I use the ultimaker cura(slicer) that you download from their website. In both cases you load the STL file into the slicer which exports the Gcode file. Which goes on a small TF card (Creality Ender 3 V2 3D Printer) or a SD card with the ultimakers.
Reasonably tough .
I've had some bits out in the garden for nealy a year and they seem undamaged , they don't disolve.
I use PLA I could use ABS in my home printer but that's it. The ultimakers can take many different types, which have differnt properites as regards toughness, weather proofness and other properties like flexibility, or include glitter, magnetic properties or woodchips or other specialized materials.
They need differnt nozzle and bed temperatures as whell as perhaps more force to push the filiment through.
PLA printing is pretty cheap to do so not a real copncern for me.
Those are not fast, but they are surprisingly good at detail. In practice if you want it to look sexy, sand it and fill it with car body filler.
In message <u5k24s$9k50$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me, Brian snipped-for-privacy@lid.org writes
Prusa i3 Mk3. Not cheap, but reliable and robust. My first one (a cheapy, and I can't remember what make) managed about 2 reels worth of filament before it started showing serious problems. This one has done into double figures without a problem.
Fusion360 (available free with a personal use licence). A semi cloud thing, the tool runs on your computer, but the storage (by default) is on their servers. Probably works well in a multi-user environment, not so useful for a single user.
Prusa Slicer for turning the STL into GCODE.
Octoprint for running the printer. Runs on a Raspberry Pi (suggest a Pi3 as a minimum). Connect the Pi to your home network, and a USB lead to the printer. Octoprint has a number of optional plugins that allow you to tailor it to your needs. It will take a camera, allowing you to watch it from your desk, you can add in a plugin that monitors filament use if you want to keep track of length used and running hours.
You can run the printer by plugging a SD card into it if you prefer to avoid the extra complication of the Pi.
Octoprint includes a web server, so you log into via the web browser of choice (although I suspect a text only browser wouldn't work well).
Depends on the material (and to a certain extent your design). PLA and PETG the usual domestic materials used. PETG works better outdoors, but having said that, I made a bracket for outdoor use 4 years ago in PLA, and it is still working fine, the coat of paint probably helped. Some printers can handle a wider range of materials, but you start getting into issues with fumes when printing.
The environment that you use/keep it in is important. The filament can adsorb moisture, so bear that in mind, and a temperature stable, draught free environment is highly desirable for good results. I used to run mine in the loft, but since I moved it into the house proper, it works much better.
Adrian
Not paid enough attention, but isn't the Sovaol V6 just a knoc^L^L^L^L ahem clone of that, at about a third of the price?
On 05/06/2023 14:26, Adrian wrote: PETG works better outdoors, but
I had a rather different experience. Made a wee bracket thing (in PLA)for storing hose fittings and watering equipment .
It didn't like the temperatures in the greenhouse or the direct sunlight and warped to uBggery . Might have fared OK in the garden but the greenhouse was a no-no.
Since then went and bought an injection molded hose hanger with slots for hose fittings. Cheaper in the long run but oh so disappointing.
I bought a kit a few years ago for £99 (inc postage). I spent a pleasant couple of afternoons assembling it - I enjoy building kits.
I run the Octopi server on a Raspberry Pi Zero W which plugs into the printer and includes a web server and a web site which can be accessed by any computer with a browser.
I run Linux exclusively (Mint Cinnamon) and have had no problems. If you're just starting I recommend two pieces of design software: Tinkercad and Openscad (both are free). I don't advise learning to code in Openscad but there are packages which will produce gears and pulleys where you specify parameters and Openscad produces the .stl file which you slice (I use Cura), send it to Octaprint and let it do the rest.
Two recommendations:
Buy a set of feeler gauges to set the gap between nozzle and bed.
Buy a magnetic bed. On other surfaces the model either comes loose or sticks so hard it can't be shifted - unpeeling the magnetic sheet and flexing it always works.
I use PLA which is OK for my jobs: mostly gears and pulleys to drive my astronomical telescope, camera lens adapters etc - so no UV and definitely no temperature challenges.
Another Dave
-- Change nospam to techie
The name's not familiar. The first one I had was a clone, and apart from establishing that it was something I could get good use out of, it wasn't worth the money. As with many other things, to a certain extent you get what you pay for.
Adrian
Going OT a little, you can do 3D printing with any extrudable media:
Somewhere on Youtube, there is some footage of someone 3D printing a building using concrete. I think the nozzle was a bit bigger than my
0.4mm one.Adrian
It is is apparently really called the Sovol SV06
Seems it is not a direct clone, rather it is a development of the open source part of the PRUSA.
That is news to me - and welcome news, at that.
Although the current dearth of Pis of *any* sort...I wonder if it would run on a *86 linux machine if compiled for it.
I'm on my third 3D printer, an Ender 3 Pro, no complaints
Software is Repetier-Host on Linux Mint : highly recommended
Existing designs from Thingiverse and others My own designs on OpenSCAD (I'm a programmer!)
I've tried nearly everything over the last 5 years and have settled on the above and have stopped looking elsewhere.
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.