"20 weight" oil needed for rowing machine chain?

On 9/25/2016 1:00 PM, Lobster wrote:
I wondered when someone would mention Linklyfe (or was it Lynklife?)
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On Mon, 26 Sep 2016 10:23:57 +0100, newshound wrote:

I used to heat mine on a Primus stove in the garden.
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You don't need to suffer such restrictions when it's yer wife's bike chain you are doing. ;-)
Cheers, T i m
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On Mon, 26 Sep 2016 13:36:27 +0100, T i m wrote:

I was 17 at the time and it wasn't a wife I worried about!
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Ah, understood. ;-)
Cheers, T i m
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On 9/26/2016 10:42 AM, Bob Eager wrote:

House with two stoves? Luxury <\Yorkshire>
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On 25/09/16 00:25, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

No, its a thin oil

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Vintage car owners often use single grade engine oils. They are available
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On Mon, 26 Sep 2016 08:32:54 +0000, DerbyBorn wrote:

They are, but they're much more expensive and - in this instance - irrelevant.
20w50 will be the same viscosity as a straight 20 when it's cold. When it's hot, it'll still be much thinner than it was when it was cold, but not as thin as a hot 20. It'll be the same viscosity as a hot straight 50.
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On 9/25/2016 12:25 AM, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

No, 20 is fairly thin. Personally I would use a spray formulated for chains, this is "sticky" to reduce drips and is easy to apply. Toolstation does one. That said, the Woolies one should be OK as well
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=I'm sure that you've got that wrong; multigrade oil offers the characturistics of a thin oil at low temperatures to reduce friction when starting, and a thick oil at higher temperatures to protect bearings under heavy load.
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On 27/09/2016 22:02, snipped-for-privacy@googlemail.com wrote:

>thin oil at low temperatures to reduce friction when starting, and a thick oil at higher > temperatures to protect bearings under heavy load.

You got it right with "characteristics of". It doesnt mean its actually thicker at high temperature. A simplified diagramme is here
http://www.kewengineering.co.uk/Auto_oils/images/graph_3_viscosity_multigrade.jpg
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Chris B (News)

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Lobster wrote:

Whatever won't splatter all over you and the room. Got any chainsaw oil?
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On Sunday, 25 September 2016 11:10:55 UTC+1, Scott M wrote:

you don't want oil that degrades.
NT
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On 25/09/2016 11:10, Scott M wrote:

Chainsaw oil gets chucked about, it is just formulated so it doesn't kill the operator when he breaths it in.
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Surely it's not the operator they care about, it's the 'environment'. Chainsaw oil is organic/vegetable oil that won't do any harm when sprayed atound the woods/garden etc.
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Weight is an old fashioned or out of date term, but is indeed the W in your 10W40. The number before the W indicates how thin or 'runny' the oil is when cold. The number after the W indicates how runny the same oil is when hot. Given that the oil on your chain is unlikely to get hot, you can safely ignore the second number.
Your 10W40 is likely to be a little too thin, or runny, but the only practical consequence is that it is slightly more likely to splatter in use, and therefore not last as long. I would either use the 10W40 or possibly find 20Wanything. If using the 10W40, check after, say, 400 miles and reapply if necessary.
The sewing machine oil will be even thinner than the 10W40, I would imagine.
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On Sat, 24 Sep 2016 21:37:45 GMT, Lobster

Weight is as you say related to viscosity and relate to the SAE designations. SAE 20 (single grade oil) is a 20 weight oil. Modern vehicle oils are usually dual designation as your 10W40 where it behaves as a 10 weight oil at low temperature and as a 40 weight oil at 100degC.
At room temperature 10W30 is pretty close to SAE20 single grade oil. For a rowing machine chain, as others have said, almost anything will do.
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Use the thickest oil you can find. Extra friction will get you fit sooner.
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Dave Plowman snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk London SW
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See http://www.concept2.co.uk/service/indoor-rowers/model-d/maintenance where they recomend 3-in-one. I've still got some of the oil that came with my machine and it's similar in viscosity so your Woolies is probably fine.
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Steve W

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