2.5A 5V DC adaptor

[BWGames]

Ah ha thanks! Whether or not its a wall wart doesn't matter. I'll use the PC PSU idea for a while until I can get down to Maplin.

Thanks everyone for the help :)

[Grunff]

Shouldn't have a problem, but as Christian says, if you already have a PC near by, just run a couple of wires to that.

[MrCheerful]

I would use a power supply from a dead computer, that has 5v and more than enough go.

MrCheerful

[Mike Tomlinson]

In article , Grunff writes

Tell me about it. I needed one for my D-Link network switch when the old one blew up. It's a tiny wall wart with a switching supply in it and no ventilation, so it cooks itself and dies.

I did the same as Ben - looked around for a replacement 2.6A PSU. They were all pretty much too expensive, but I'm sure I found a suitable one at Maplin for about 20 quid.

Being tight-fisted, I then went through a box of electronic junk and found an old external SCSI case with PSU. The 5v line on that was rated for 2.5A, so I took it out and built it into an enclosure, using the old cable cut off from the wall-wart. As I was putting the finishing touches to it, a work colleague came along:

colleague: what are you doing? me: I'm building a PSU from scrap as I'm too tight to buy a new one c: what's it for? m: a D-Link switch c: you do know D-Link have a lifetime warranty on their stuff? m: !"£$%^"$!

One phone call to D-Link later, and a replacement PSU was in the post.

Thought of that too, as the switch is next to the PC. 2.5A is a fair amount to draw off a PC PSU though, especially a fast Athlon system with all the toys and only a 300W PSU.

[John Laird]

My router has the same spec supply. The adapter says "FPS013" on it and can be found here:

pdf brochure has specs (mine is a large 3-pin adapter, slightly smaller than the small 3-pin adapter !), and there is contact info on the page. See if they can supply or put you in touch with someone who can.

HTH.

[The Natural Philosopher]

You sure? Most cases the only thing in teh wallwart is a trasnfrmer and a fuse.

All the reglation is internal to teh unit.

BTW the reason for all these orrible wallwarts is regulatory. Every unit that conects to teh mains has to get tested fopor safety. This costs. So teh modern trend is to outsiurce the manins bit, and then teh unit itself doesn't need to meet safety regulations, because it never has more than 20V or so in it.

Anoher example of 'right intentions, stupid result'.

[Grunff]

It outputs AC?

I think it varies from one unit to another, quite a few of my wart powered devices don't seem to have anything in the way of regulation.

[Dave Liquorice]

Make sure you pick up the +5v and 0V not one of the other rails (+12

-12 or -5v from the top of my head ATX may have a couple of flavours of 3v in there as well...).

A really old AT PSU might be reluctant to start without a bit of load and might be unstable unless all rails have something on them. Finnickity things SMPS. B-)

[Dave Liquorice]

And up when not on load...

Without question.

[Dave Liquorice]

You'd fry your router. Don't do it. B-)

Of course you gould get any regulated 5v PSU with a current rating >=

2.5A. Are there any say 5v 5A or 5v 10A jobbies out there...

[Dave Liquorice]

I was suprised at my 8 port Linksys switch PSU is 3.3v 3A but when you think about it it's only 10W and if all ports are active at 100Mbps full duplex that is 24 LEDs to light all(*) the time.

(*) Apart from little blinks off for traffic on 8 of them.

[Dave Plowman]

But not a 9 volt 160VA toroidal mains transformer, which Maplin do, although it's to order rather than stock. And their 'open' toroidals seem to be cheaper than RS as well.

[Dave Plowman]

I'd be utterly amazed if you found one in stock at a shop...

[PoP]

What about the supplier?

Netgear routers usually have 2 (or 3) years warranty on the PSU, and 5 years on the kit. I had one PSU blow recently, they swapped it without question under warranty - shipped a new one without requiring the old one back. I think these are designed to blow!

PoP

[BWGames]

I've dug a old AT PSU out. Just got to detach it from the computer.

IIRC, its 5V = Yellow, and 0V = one of the blacks?

Shall pop into Maplin when I can get there and get the wart mentioned earlier, but hopefully it'll do for now.

Really don't want to muck router up (?200 ;)), but I'm a D.I.Y.'er and so hopefully I can get the PSU to do it.

[Christian McArdle]

STOP!!!!!

Unless I'm having a brain fart,

Yellow = 12V Red = 5V Black = 0V

I'd suggest coming off a hard drive connector.

Christian.

[BWGames]

Thats what I'm gonna do.

Just dug the PSU out, and there appears to be also an earth lead for some reason?! (connected to PSU) *wonders where to put it*

Never seen em on PSU's before. It was connected to the case, so I guess it was just to connect stuff to that could be earthed to the PSU's earth? In that case, I can leave it?

Someone care to check my reasoning?

Thanks...

[Grunff]

That's for earthing the case via the psu (kind of redundant since it's bolted to it). Just leave it.

[Grunff]

That surprises me.

Maplin are almost always cheaper, and are my preferred supplier for that reason. The service is nearly as good as RS, and the range is pretty good. But if Maplin don't have it, I try RS next.

[BWGames]

Might get it online then ;o) But yeah, the chances of that in a shop are slim...