But you need to use the correct sized drill bit (usually 6.5mm) and make sure the drill bit is dead straight. If it, or the chuck has any wear and liable to wobble then you end up with a hole that is closer to the diameter of the screw (7.5 mm) so it doesn't create its own thread in the brick, block or concrete. Then you need to squirt some oil-based mastic into the hole or insert something to act like a rawplug.
Hmm, did they have (wall hung) kitchen cupboards in 1893? Is it a listed house?
Hope he was able to convince said neighbour on the need for respect for old buildings.
You old traditionalist!
I was always amazed when removing Victorian skirting boards how effective that method was. Firstly, because you would expect the timber to dry out, secondly because nailing in-line with the wood fibres is not particularly secure.
I suspect it's because they used real wood in those days - rather than the stuff we get now.
It was still pretty effective in the late 1960s when they did it in my flat - and it certainly wasn't good quality wood they used as the battens have more shakes than a maraca band.
Owain
It is very effective, if done properly and you can make the wedge what ever size works for the gap/hole. When I first started work, prior to the fibre rawlplugs becoming popular, wood was used for many of the fixings.
I expect the wood was already dry. It works fine, just is a lot of work.
NT
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