You said "fused switch". Could it be that something in the cupboard had been pressing against the switch enough to turn it off but not so far as to stop it springing back into place when you emptied things out to get to it?
You said "fused switch". Could it be that something in the cupboard had been pressing against the switch enough to turn it off but not so far as to stop it springing back into place when you emptied things out to get to it?
Yes, but when I visited the electrical shop in the village and asked for some, there ensued a lengthy sifting through boxes and eventually a box with 2 remaining was discovered.
Proprietor remarked that he could not remember when he last sold any.
Shop has been there since the beginning of electricity I think.
I have wired up a dedicated spur that feeds the TV and associated bits, plus a wall light above it using some
1.5mm 3core+E 'old stock cable :-)'. One feed is for the wall light and the other connects a single socket half way up the wall for the TV and a double skt lower dowm for PVR etc. There is a 10amp double pole switch in a more accessible location so that I can switch the whole lot off without twisting my back. A separate fused spur with a 6 amp fuse feeds the wall light and a 5 amp round pin socket for a free standing light with its own dimmer.The 3 power sockets need to be on a 10 amp fuse because the cable is only 1.5mm.
PS Next year 2.5 T&E will have 3 2.5mm cores, all insulated and the outer sheath will be the low smoke variety.
That's going to be fun getting 2 of those down an oval conduit.
Apparently Scotland is making all new wiring to use MIC stuff, really ??
Does 'in plaster' mean literally buried in plaster, or inside conduit which is then plastered over ?. Modern houses seem to use plastic capping to hold the cable against the inner leaf blockwork which is then covered with dot'n'dab PB. Is this the same ?.
Yes, or clipped direct to it or masonry.
That is installation method B
wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Cables#Cable_Sizes
That would for example de-rate 2.5mm^2 T&E from 27A to 23A
If the cable is in contact with the wall on one side, then that is entry
58 in table 4A2 - direct in masonry with added mechanical protection. So treated as clipped direct or in masonry - column C again.
Even if someone had two 13A loads, it is unlikely that both would remain at full power for long. Say a washing machine and a dishwasher - both will be well below 10A unless the heaters are on. Most of the time one or both heaters will be off and for the short time that both are on, the temperature rise will be within bounds.
I have a cabinet with trays that hold the following plug fuse values:
1A 2A 3A 5A 7A 10Aas well as the 13A variety.....
Yup for fixed wiring like that, there is no need for a 10A fuse...
There are use cases for 10A fuses in things like cheap multiway extension leads.
If we're boasting ;-) I have trays and boxes of fuses including
32ma 50ma 100ma 150ma 200ma 250ma 300ma 500ma 750ma and probably others in 20mm, 5/8" & 1"1/4 although not all aren't meant for 'mains'I remember when slow-blow and quick-blow weren't sexual referencies :-D
Robert Dyas still sells proper fuse wire for rewireable fuse holders. £2.99
... and air fryers are even cheaper now. I guess the initial craze has worn off.
Maybe so, but personally I would not plug two 'major' appliances into the same socket.
But are your fuses compliant to BS1362 and thus usable in a BS1363 plug?
:-)
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