Can't I just wrap these pipes real good since they are so near the frost
line? I don't want to mess with a heated element and worry about it from
1200 miles away..
It comes in from the street plastic and goes to copper and turns up to a
shut off before the meter and then a shut off after he meter. From the
elbow below it goes up 6 feet or so. So from the top of this rise to the
plastic inlet from the street is my concern. I'm 'planning' on having
it shut off at the street..
Someone suggested taking it apart and flushing it there . If I have to
do that, I'll just get a pro and have him install a bleeder there for
Most street valves have a drain that opens on the house side, and the
water will drain back. It would be a risk to just shut off the inside
ball valve, and just drain the system down to the meter. The Achilles
heel is that elbow you mention. You could insulate it carfully, and
it'd probably be OK, but the nagging sensation in the back of your mind
might drive you crazy.
If there isn't a drain on the street valve, then have your plumber
put some sort of drain at the elbow.
I agree mike. And I don't have anyone here to look in on it. I am
definitly going to have it shut off at the street. Are you saying the
water co. might have a (built in) solution?
It is a gated community with a their own water system. There are quite a
few seasonals here, so I guess I need to poke around more locally..
One guy here said without pressure from the street there shouldn't be
enough water there to cause a problem and I should be able to get most
of it out..
I'd hate to come back and have to wait around for a plumber. I dont'
know why they didn't just set it up that way..
Is there any where in the system where you can pour in some RV Antifreeze?
When I had an RV we used to hook up to the faucets and pump antifreeze into
the lines using a drill and a pump that attached to the drill.
I didn't respond to your suggesion because it doesn't make sense to
Are you suggesting drilling the copper tubing to put antifreeze in... I
guess that'd be ok if I never planned on using them again..?
I am going to put RV antifreeze in the drain traps in recommended
amounts-one gallon for the toilet and one quart each for all the others.
Also going to pump down the grinder basin and drain the HW heater after
shutting it down.
Also going to shut off the heat and fridge.
I will probably end up wrapping that line real good..
My cousin suggested using some type of vacum pump on the nearest opening
to that line and sucking out as much water as I can.. That is the best
one I've heard yet, assuming I can get a VP to work on that line...
Chill out dude. I was responding to the DIYer that suggested using
antifreeze. I'm the nice guy that gave you the sound advice a few
messages ago. MLD, whoever that is, is the guy not making sense.
This is a step by step Instruction on how to drain a water heater...
Step 1: Shut off electrical at the panel, breaker or fuses.
Step 2: Shut the water off to the tank at the valve.
Step 3: Turn on a hot water tap to relieve the water pressure, when there is
no more water coming out of the tap, flip open the relief valve (Located on
top of the tank).
Step 4: Connect a hose to the drain outlet at the bottom of the tank, and
run the hose outside or to a floor drain (Make sure that at no time does any
length of the hose go higher then the drain, make sure hose is lower than
the drain outlet and running down hill) this will aid in proper drainage.
Step 5: Gently rock the tank until it is evident that all the water is out
of the tank, if it is close the valve and then the relief valve.
That is all there is to it. A.A
I'm going to take it easy on you because I'm a kind person, but your
advice left a little to be desired.
First of all, it's a great idea to shut off the electric, unless
it's a gas WH, in which case, the gas must be turned off.
Secondly, it's a bad habit, not that I haven't done it before
myself, to mess with the relief valve at all. Those things are touchy,
and just fooling around can cause them to drip. You advised that the
relief valve be opened before draining the tank (at least down below the
level of the RV itself). Won't water come out through the relief valve
if you do this??
Thirdly, and this was especially interesting. You said that he
should rock the water heater back and forth. How do you rock a water
heater back and forth if it's still connected to the piping?
Fourthly, since he's winterizing a home, it'd be a bad mistake to
shut off the cold water inlet. That valve would hold water that could
freeze and cause a leak. The cold water valve should be opened as the
Other than that, your advice was just fine.
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