Ok See I was right you cant arguee with what I said, it is true.
Remember what I said mon. PEX is not really new but it is not the "answer" to plumbing a house.
I am useing PEX on a huge project right now because they want in floor heat. That is where it is best, I think.
It is going to take me a while to pipe the boiler though because some of this is going to be in a slab and some of it is going to be in floor joist. There is also 2 boilermates.
Therefore I have 3 different heating demands each one wants the boiler water to be a different temp.
Baseboard heat with boilermate = 1 boiler tremp
If you ignorant wise asses know anything about heating system design then you are starting to see the $$$$ add up.
Should I use Wirsbo Telestats???? $$$$$$
STFU Stop giving people one-sided uninformed "answers" \
I will flat out smoke you plumbing a house with PEX over you using copper. Hell, you and your best helper and I'll beat you both. And when I get done it will be a better job and the home owner will be happier in the long haul. Of course, you can take pictures of the pretty copper piping in the walls so that your customer can show everybody how pretty it looked before it got covered up.
I promise I can run a riser to a piece of baseboard faster than I can install infloor to that same room. If you cant do that then you never learned the basics. I would even use PEX in the walls to get to the heat, there is nothing "wrong" with that.
I guess you just don't do big jobs with many zones with different needs, so you probably don't even understand what I am talking about. Ask you teacher tomorow in class about it. If you want to sponser the event I would be more than happy to race you with a heating install. That includes the boiler pipeing and wireing. We should also compare price because that is another misconception about PEX. It will cost on avarage 3 times as much to set up boiler. (boiler cost itself not included, its same for both)
Agian you are not lisitening to what I say though. You just reply with "buzz phrases" that the newcomer likes to hear/ belive.
By the way I had to fix a leak today in PEX. before you start, not my install :-p. But it was a real pain in the ass. I could not drain the pex so every time I tried to solder my valve water was drawn back to the heat makeing it impossible to solder.
I had to go back to the shop to get an air compressor and blow the lines out. A very simple repair turned into an 1 1/2 hour project all thanks to PEX.
This time try to respond with an actual point or valid arguement or I will not waste my time anymore trying to help you.
PS: my boiler pipeing is so nice people bring their friends over to look at it. And guess what; they like to take pictures. I have been useing the NTI gas boiler which is tiny with some PEX jobs for infloor. The boiler being so small and my pipeing being so neat commonly makes me the talk of the job site, my part of the job becomes one of the must see attractions. A common thing I hear is "I feel like I am on a submarine or something". Go study you books and learn about injection loops and stuff like that, then come back and tell me how you put that togerher with PEX.
You started by saying plumbing with PEX is no good, now you switch to hydronic heating. What the heck?
Too late for that. It's been many years since I went to I-B-R school for hydronics. I've been working on wet heat for about 25 years. Everything from single family residential to several million BTU boilers. I don't say I know it all. I'm sure I could learn something from you.
If you want to sponser the event I would be more than
How would it have been easier with copper? Was it in the slab?
Gee Ned, it's awful nice of you trying to help me.
Could it be because the boiler is under water? : o)
If I may interject here before things get really nasty, I think you guys are talking about two different things. Ned is doing boiler piping, and Mark is running potable water lines. I think everyone will agree that pex can be used in both situations, but not used for everything in either situation. Myself, I prefer the near boiler (or HWT for potable) piping to be copper (steel if need be). The ridgid piping looks very neat on both potable water systems and boiler systems. However, once you get away from the mechanical room (now I'm talking about in-floor heating or potable water distribution lines, not baseboard heating) I think that PEX (be it Plasco, Wirsbo, Heatlink, etc.) is the only way to go in residential plumbing. As far as durability, I've found it kicks the crap out of copper in agressive water situations. Ned, you were trying to solder a valve in a pex line? Why wouldn't you crimp it (or expand it, as the case may be)? I've worked for over 10 years in Alberta doing every aspect of residential plumbing (from new install to service to renovations) and have never seen a PEX line rupture all on its own. There's always been damage from some other source. In any event, a leak on a PEX line is FAR easier to repair than a leak on a copper line. You don't have to drain out the water on the PEX line, just crimp in a coupling or a valve.
Well, that's my 3.75 cent's worth (exchange, you know).
I did not have enough room to use the expander tool. My option was to remove wall or go get air compressor and blow it out to make a long story short.
Sometimes it is, sometimes a leak in copper is FAR easier to repair.
A piece of solder and fire can fit in a much smaller space than a PEX tool.
If I can't get solid footing or Im on a ladder or some other difficult postion, I don't have to then further excert myself by trying to SQUEEEZE the tool which takes both hands (unless you got the 1000$ for the handheld tool) risking a muscle pull or even worse a fall.
If I am in a crawl space I don't have to struggle to use the tool
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