Grizzly G0690 owner's manual: Section 4: operations

SECTION 4: OPERATIONS

WARNING To reduce the risk of serious injury when using this machine, read and understand this entire manual before beginning any operations.

WARNING Damage to your eyes, lungs, and hearing could result from using this machine without proper protective gear. Always wear safety glasses, a respirator, and hearing protection when operating this machine.

WARNING For Your Own Safety Read Instruction Manual Before Operating Saw a) Wear eye protection. b) Use saw-blade guard and riving knife for every operation for which it can be used, including all through sawing. c) Keep hands out of the line of saw blade. d) Use a push-stick when required. e) Pay particular attention to instructions on reducing risk of kickback. f) Do not perform any operation freehand. g) Never reach around or over saw blade.

NOTICE If you have never used this type of machine or equipment before, seek training from an experienced machine operator or read "how to" books before beginning any projects. Regardless of the content in this section, Grizzly Industrial will not be held liable for accidents caused by lack of training.

Operation Overview

The purpose of this overview is to provide the novice machine operator with a basic understanding of how the machine is used during a typical operation, so the controls/components discussed later in this manual are easier to understand.

Due to the generic nature of this overview, it is not intended to be an instructional guide. To learn more about specific operations, read this entire manual, read "how to" books, and seek additional training from experienced machine operators.

To complete a typical operation, the operator does the following:

1. Examines the workpiece to make sure it is suitable for cutting.
2. Adjusts the blade tilt, if necessary, to the correct angle for the desired cut.
3. For "Through Cuts," adjusts the blade height no more than 1/4" higher than the thickness of the workpiece.
4. Adjusts the fence to the desired width of cut, then locks it in place.
5. Checks the outfeed side of the machine for proper support and to make sure the workpiece can safely pass all the way through the blade without interference.
6. Puts on safety glasses and a respirator. Locates push sticks/blocks if needed.
7. Starts the saw.
8. Feeds the workpiece all the way through the blade while maintaining firm pressure on the workpiece against the table and fence, and keeping hands and fingers out of the blade path and away from the blade.
9. Stops the machine immediately after the cut is complete.

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Basic Controls

ON Button: Starts the motor (see Figure 39).

Safety Pin & Chain: When installed (see Figure 39), disables the ON Button to prevent accidental startup.

Emergency Stop/Reset Button: Turns machine OFF. Rotate clockwise to reset. (see Figure 39).

Figure 39. Power controls.

Blade Tilt: To adjust the blade tilt, loosen the blade tilt lock, turn the blade tilt handwheel to position the blade at the desired angle, then tighten the lock shown in Figure 40.

Blade Height: To set the blade height, unlock the blade height lock, turn the handwheel to set the blade height approximately 1/4" higher than the workpiece, then re-tighten the blade height lock.

Fence Lock: After adjusting the fence to the desired width of cut, lock it in place by firmly pushing the fence lock down until it stops.

Figure 40. Basic table saw controls.

Non-Through & Through Cuts

Non-Through Cuts

A non-through cut is a sawing operation where the blade does not protrude above the top face of the wood stock, as shown in the Figure below.

Figure 41. Example of a non-through cut.

Examples of non-through cuts include dadoes and rabbets. Non-through cuts have a higher risk of injury from kickback because the blade guard must be removed. However, the riving knife MUST be installed because it still provides some protection. When making non-through cuts with a dado blade, do not attempt to cut the full depth in one pass. Instead, take multiple light passes to reduce the load on the blade. A dado blade smaller than 10" will require removal of the riving knife, because the riving knife will be higher than the blade.

Through Cuts

A through cut is a sawing operation in which the workpiece is completely sawn through, as shown in the Figure below. Examples of through cuts are rip cuts, cross cuts, miter cuts, and beveled cuts. The blade guard assembly MUST be used when performing through cuts.

Figure 42. Example of a through cut (blade guard not shown for illustrative clarity).

Workpiece Inspection

Some workpieces are not safe to cut on this machine or may need to be modified before they can be safely cut. Before cutting, inspect all workpieces for the following:

• Material Type: This machine is intended for cutting natural and man-made wood products, laminate covered wood products, and some plastics. Cutting drywall or cementitious backer board creates extremely fine dust and may reduce the life of the motor bearings. This machine is NOT designed to cut metal, glass, stone, tile, etc.; cutting these materials with a table saw greatly increases the risk of injury and damage to the saw or blade.

• Foreign Objects: Nails, staples, dirt, rocks and other foreign objects are often embedded in wood. While cutting, these objects can become dislodged and hit the operator, cause kickback, or break the blade, which might then fly apart. Always visually inspect your workpiece for these items. If they can’t be removed, DO NOT cut the workpiece.

• Large/Loose Knots: Loose knots can become dislodged during the cutting operation. Large knots can cause kickback and machine damage. Choose workpieces that do not have large/loose knots or plan ahead to avoid cutting through them.

• Wet or “Green” Stock: Cutting wood with a moisture content over 20% causes unnecessary wear on the blades, increases the risk of kickback, and yields poor results.

• Excessive Warping: Workpieces with excessive cupping, bowing, or twisting are dangerous to cut because they are unstable and may move unpredictably when being cut.

• Minor Warping: Slightly cupped workpieces can be safely supported with cupped side facing the table or fence; however, workpieces supported on the bowed side will rock during the cut, which could cause kickback.

Blade Requirements

The riving knife included with this machine is 0.1" (2.5mm) thick and is only designed for 10" diameter blades.

When choosing a main blade, make sure the blade size meets the requirements listed below. The thickness of the blade body and teeth can be measured with calipers or any precision measuring device.

Blade Size Requirements:

• Body Thickness: 0.071"-0.094" (1.8-2.4mm)
• Kerf (Tooth) Thickness: 0.102"-0.126" (2.6-3.2mm)

Blade Selection

This section on blade selection is by no means comprehensive. Always follow the saw blade manufacturer’s recommendations to ensure safe and efficient operation of your table saw.

Ripping Blade Features:

• Best for cutting with the grain
• 20-40 teeth
• Flat-top ground tooth profile
• Large gullets for large chip removal

Figure 43. Ripping blade.

Crosscut blade features:

• Best for cutting across the grain
• 60-80 teeth
• Alternate top bevel tooth profile
• Small hook angle and a shallow gullet

Alternate Top Bevel

Figure 44. Crosscutting blade.

Combination blade features:

• Designed to cut both with and across grain
• 40-50 teeth
• Alternate top bevel and flat, or alternate top bevel and raker tooth profile
• Teeth are arranged in groups
• Gullets are small and shallow (similar to a cross-cut blade), then large and deep (similar to a ripping blade

Alternate Top Bevel and Flat

Figure 45. Combination blade.

Laminate blade features:

• Best for cutting plywood or veneer
• 40-80 teeth
• Triple chip tooth profile
• Very shallow gullet

Triple Chip Blade

Figure 46. Laminate blade.

Thin Kerf Blade: A blade with thinner kerf than a standard blade. Since the spreader/riving knife included with this table saw is sized for standard blades, thin kerf blades cannot be used on this saw unless they meet the Blade Requirements specified in this manual; otherwise, they will increase the risk of kickback.

Dado Blades

Stacked Dado Blade (see below): Multiple blades are stacked together to control the cutting width. Stacked dado blades are more expensive than wobble blades, but typically produce higher quality results.

Wobble Dado Blade: A single blade mounted at a slight angle on an arbor hub. The blade angle is adjustable on the hub, and the width of the dado cut is controlled by the angle setting of the blade.

Figure 47. Stacked dado blade.

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Blade Installation

CAUTION
The saw blade is sharp. Use extra care or wear gloves when handling the blade or working near it.

Review this section, even if your saw blade came pre-installed.

To install the blade:

1. DISCONNECT THE SAW FROM POWER!
2. Put on heavy leather gloves and raise the arbor all the way up.
3. Remove the table insert and blade guard/riving knife, depending on what is installed.
4. Use the arbor wrenches to loosen and remove the arbor nut, flange, and blade.

Note: The arbor nut has right hand threads; turn it counterclockwise to loosen.

5. Slide the blade over the arbor with the teeth facing the front of the saw, as shown in Figure 48.

Figure 48. Example of correct blade direction.

6. Re-install the arbor flange and the arbor nut, and tighten them against the blade with the wrenches included with the saw. DO NOT overtighten.

Blade Guard Assembly

The term "blade guard" refers to the assembly that consists of the guard, spreader, and anti-kickback pawls (see Figure below). Each of these components have important safety functions.

Figure 49. Blade guard assembly components.

Blade Guard

The guard encloses the top of the blade to reduce the risk of accidental blade contact and contain flying chips or dust.

The guard is designed to lift as the workpiece is pushed into the blade, remain in contact with the workpiece during the cut, then return to a resting position against the table when the cut is complete. When installed and properly maintained, the guard is an excellent tool for reducing the risk of injury when operating the table saw.

To ensure that the guard does its job effectively, it MUST be installed and adjusted so that it moves up and down properly to accommodate workpieces and maintain coverage over the blade.

Spreader

The spreader is a metal plate that prevents the freshly cut pieces of the workpiece from pinching the backside of the blade and causing a kickback. It also acts as a barrier behind the blade to shield hands from being pulled into the blade if a kickback occurs.

⚠WARNING

In order to work properly, the spreader cannot be bent or misaligned with the blade. If the spreader gets accidentally bent, take the time to straighten it or just replace it. Using a bent or misaligned spreader will increase the risk of kickback! Refer to Page 68 to check or adjust alignment if necessary.

Anti-Kickback Pawls

The anti-kickback pawls allow the workpiece to travel in only one direction. If the workpiece moves backwards, such as during a kickback, the pawls will dig into the workpiece to slow or stop it.

To work properly, the pawls must return to their bottom-most position after pivoting, as shown in Figure 50, and they must not be engaged in the arresting hooks.

Figure 50. Pawls in return position.

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If the pawls fail to return to the bottom position, the pivot spring may have been dislodged or broken and will need to be fixed/replaced.

The anti-kickback pawls and arresting hooks are constructed to comply with the UL Standard for Safety for Stationary and Fixed Electric Tools, UL 987 (Seventh Edition).

Disabling Pawls To disable the pawls, rotate the arresting hooks downward, then place the pawls on each of the hooks, as shown in Figure 51.

Use your best judgment before retracting the pawls, as they are provided for your safety. Certain situations could warrant retracting the pawls. For example, you might retract the pawls if you are concerned about them scratching a delicate workpiece, or if you believe that they will obstruct a narrow workpiece and cause feeding difficulty or loss of control.

Arresting Hooks (One Shown) Pawl Figure 51. Pawl disabled.

WARNING We do not recommend disabling the pawls during normal operations unless absolutely necessary. In most situations, disabling the pawls will increase your risk of serious personal injury in the event of a kickback.

Enabling Pawls To enable the pawls, lift up on each pawl and move them outward and down until they both touch the table surface, as shown in Figure 50 on Page 37.

When to Use the Blade Guard The blade guard assembly MUST always be installed on the saw for all normal through cuts (those where the blade cuts all the way through the thickness of the workpiece).

When Not to Use the Blade Guard The blade guard cannot be used on any non-through cuts (those in which the blade does not cut all the way through the thickness of the workpiece).

Sometimes the blade guard or its components can get in the way when cutting very narrow workpieces or other specialized cuts. Because the blade guard is provided to decrease your risk of injury, it should not be used if it gets in the way of making a safe cut. Use good judgment!

IMPORTANT: Whenever the blade guard cannot be used, the riving knife must be installed.

Riving Knife

The riving knife works the same way as the spreader on the blade guard assembly. It is a metal plate that prevents the newly cut workpiece from pinching the backside of the blade and causing kickback.

The key difference between the spreader and the riving knife is that the riving knife mounts below the blade's highest point of rotation, as shown in Figure 52.

Figure 52. Height difference between riving knife and blade.

The height difference between the riving knife and the blade allows the workpiece to pass over the blade during non-through cuts (those in which the blade does not cut all the way through the thickness of the workpiece).

The riving knife acts as a barrier behind the blade to reduce the risk of hands being pulled into the blade if a kickback occurs.

The riving knife must be kept within the range shown in Figure 53. For that reason, we only recommend using a 10" blade for operations that require use of the riving knife.

Figure 53. Allowable top and bottom distances between riving knife and blade.

WARNING To ensure that the riving knife works safely, it MUST be aligned with and correctly adjusted to the blade. Refer to Page 68 to check or adjust the riving knife alignment.

How to Install the Riving Knife

The riving knife is installed in a similar manner to the blade guard and spreader. Refer to Blade Guard on Page 37 for installation instructions.

When to Use the Riving Knife

Use the riving knife for all non-through cuts made with a standard table saw blade (i.e., dadoes or rabbet cuts in which a dado blade is NOT used, and when using a tenoning jig).

Also, use the riving knife for those special operations where the blade guard or its components get in the way of safe operation, such as with very narrow cuts.

When Not to Use the Riving Knife

The riving knife CANNOT be used with a dado blade. Otherwise, the riving knife height will exceed the blade height and the workpiece will hit the riving knife during the cut, forcing the operator into a dangerous situation of trying to turn the saw off with the workpiece stuck halfway through the cut.

In addition, although it is possible to use the riving knife for through cutting operations, the blade guard assembly offers far more injury protection and risk reduction than the riving knife. Therefore, we strongly recommend that you use the blade guard assembly instead of the riving knife for through cuts.

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Ripping

"Ripping" means cutting with the grain of a natural wood workpiece. In other man-made materials such as MDF or plywood, ripping simply means cutting lengthwise.

⚠WARNING

Serious injury can be caused by kickback. Kickback is a high-speed expulsion of stock from the table saw toward an operator. The operator or bystanders may be struck by flying stock, or the operator's hands can be pulled into the blade during kickback.

To make a rip cut:

1. Review Preventing Kickback on Page 13 and take the necessary precautions to prevent kickback.
2. If using natural wood, joint one long edge of the workpiece on a jointer.
3. DISCONNECT THE SAW FROM POWER!
4. Ensure that the blade guard/spreader is installed.
5. Set the fence to the desired width of cut on the scale.
6. Adjust the blade height so the highest saw tooth protrudes approximately 1/4" above the workpiece.
7. Set up safety devices such as featherboards or other anti-kickback devices.
8. Rotate the blade to make sure it does not come into contact with any of the safety devices.
9. Plug the saw into the power source, turn it ON, and allow it to reach full speed.

Note: The jointed edge of the workpiece must slide against the fence during the cutting operation.

10. Use a push stick to feed the workpiece through the saw blade, as shown in Figure 54, until the workpiece is completely past the saw blade.

Figure 54. Typical ripping operation.

⚠WARNING

Turn OFF the saw and allow the blade to come to a complete stop before removing the cut-off piece. Failure to follow this warning could result in serious personal injury.

⚠WARNING

Keep the blade guard installed and in the down position. Failure to do this could result in serious personal injury or death.

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Crosscutting

"Crosscutting" means cutting across the grain of a natural wood workpiece. In other man-made materials, such as MDF or plywood, crosscutting means cutting across the width of the workpiece.

To make a crosscut using the miter gauge:

1. DISCONNECT THE SAW FROM POWER!
2. Ensure that the blade guard/spreader is installed.
3. Move the rip fence aside and position the miter gauge, adjusted to 90°, in a miter slot.
4. Adjust the blade height so the teeth protrude approximately 1/4" above the workpiece.
5. Slide the miter gauge near the blade and adjust the workpiece so the blade will cut on the waste side of the line.
6. Plug in the table saw, turn it ON, and allow it to reach full speed.
7. Hold the workpiece firmly against the face of the miter gauge (Figure 55), and ease it through the blade until the workpiece is completely past the saw blade.

Figure 55. Typical crosscutting operation.

WARNING

Turn OFF the saw and allow the blade to come to a complete stop before removing the cut-off piece. Failure to follow this warning could result in serious personal injury

Miter Cuts

A miter is an angled crosscut. Miters are usually cut in the same manner as crosscuts, using the miter gauge and a predetermined mark on the workpiece.

To perform a miter cut:

1. DISCONNECT THE SAW FROM POWER!
2. Ensure that the blade guard/spreader is installed.
3. Determine the angle of your cut. If the angle needs to be very precise, use a protractor to set the miter gauge to the blade.
4. Place the face of the miter gauge against the edge of the workpiece and place the bar across the face of the workpiece. Use the bar as a guide to mark your cut, as shown in Figure 56.

Figure 56. Example of marking miter line.

5. Place the miter gauge back into the slot and hold the workpiece firmly against the miter gauge body. Slide the miter gauge near the blade and adjust the workpiece so the blade will cut on the waste side of the line.
6. Proceed to make the cut in the same manner as described in the Crosscutting instructions.

Blade Tilt/Bevel Cuts

When the blade tilt stop bolts are properly adjusted (Page 65), the blade tilt handwheel allows the operator to tilt the blade to the left, anywhere between 0° and 45°. This is used most often when cutting bevels, compound miters or chamfers. Figure 57 shows an example of the blade when tilted to 45°.

Figure 57. Blade tilted to 45° for bevel cutting on a typical table saw.

Dado Cutting

Commonly used in furniture joinery, a dado is a straight channel cut in the face of the workpiece. Dadoes can be cut using either a dedicated dado blade or a standard saw blade. Figure 58 shows a cutaway view of a dado cut being made with a dado blade.

Figure 58. Example of a dado cut with a dado blade.

WARNING

DO NOT make through cuts with a dado blade. Dado blades are only intended for non-through cuts. Failure to heed this warning could result in serious injury.

Installing a Dado Blade

1. DISCONNECT THE SAW FROM POWER!
2. Remove the table insert, the blade guard assembly or riving knife, and the saw blade.
3. Attach and adjust the dado blade system according to the dado blade manufacturer’s instructions
4. Install the dado table insert.

WARNING

Dado blades have a higher risk of kickback than normal blades because their larger size applies stronger forces to the workpiece. This risk increases relative to the depth and width of the cut. To minimize your risk of serious personal injury, ensure that stock is flat and straight, and make multiple light cuts (rather than one deep cut) to achieve the desired cutting depth.

WARNING

DO NOT make through cuts with a dado blade. Dado blades are only intended for non-through cuts. Failure to heed this warning could result in serious injury.

WARNING

Never try to dado a warped board by holding it down against the table. If kickback occurs, your hand will likely be pulled into the blade, resulting in serious personal injury.

Cutting Dadoes with a Dado Blade

The Figure below demonstrates the sequential process of making multiple, light cuts that get progressively deeper. The actual number of cuts used should be determined by workpiece hardness, total dado depth, and feed rate. In general, if you hear the motor slow down during the cut, you are cutting too deep or feeding too fast.

Figure 59. Example of dado being cut with multiple light cuts, instead of one deep cut.

⚠WARNING

Always use push sticks, featherboards, push paddles and other safety accessories whenever possible to increase safety and control during operations that require the blade guard and spreader to be removed from the saw. ALWAYS replace the blade guard after dadoing is complete.

To cut a dado with a dado blade:

1. Adjust the dado blade to the desired depth of cut.
2. Adjust the distance between the fence and the inside edge of the blade, as shown in Figure 58, to dado the length of a workpiece. —If dadoing across the workpiece, use the miter gauge and carefully line up the desired cut with the dado blade. DO NOT use the fence in combination with the miter gauge.
3. Reconnect the saw to the power source.
4. Turn the saw ON. The blade should run smooth, with no vibrations.
5. When the blade has reached full speed, perform a test cut with a scrap piece of wood.
6. If the cut is satisfactory, repeat the cut with the actual workpiece.

Cutting Dadoes with a Standard Blade

A ripping blade (described on Page 34) is typically the best blade to use for cutting dadoes when using a standard blade, because it removes saw-dust very efficiently.

To use a standard saw blade to cut dadoes:

1. DISCONNECT SAW FROM POWER!
2. Mark the width of the dado cut on the workpiece. Include marks on the edge of the workpiece so the cut path can be aligned when the workpiece is lying on the table.
3. Raise the blade up to the desired depth of cut (depth of dado channel desired).
4. Set the saw up for the type of cut you need to make, depending on if it is a rip cut (Page 40) or crosscut (Page 41).
5. Align the blade to cut one of the dado sides, as shown in Figure 60.

Figure 60. First cut for a single-blade dado.

6. Reconnect the saw to the power source and turn the saw ON. Allow the blade to reach full speed, then perform the cutting operation.
7. Repeat the cutting operation on the other side of the dado channel, as shown in Figure 61.

Figure 61. Second cut for a single blade dado.

8. Make additional cuts (see Figure 62) in the center of the dado to clear out the necessary material. The dado is complete when the channel is completely cleared out.

Figure 62. Additional single blade dado cuts.

Rabbet Cutting

Commonly used in furniture joinery, a rabbet is an L-shaped groove cut in the edge of the workpiece. Rabbets can be cut with either a dado blade or a standard saw blade.

Rabbet cutting on the edge of the workpiece with a dado blade requires a sacrificial fence (Figure 63). Make the sacrificial fence the same length as the fence and 3/4" thick. Attach it to the fence with screws or clamps, making sure they are all secure and tight. Raise the blade into the sacrificial fence to the height needed.

Figure 63. Sacrificial fence.

WARNING Dado blades have a higher risk of kickback than normal blades because their larger size applies stronger forces to the workpiece. This risk increases relative to the depth and width of the cut. To minimize your risk of serious personal injury, ensure that stock is flat and straight, and make multiple light cuts (rather than one deep cut) to achieve the desired cutting depth.

CAUTION Always use push sticks, featherboards, push paddles and other safety accessories whenever possible to increase safety and control during operations which require that the blade guard be removed from the saw. ALWAYS replace the blade guard after dadoing is complete.

Cutting Rabbets with a Dado Blade

1. DISCONNECT SAW FROM POWER!
2. Adjust the dado blade to the height needed for the rabbeting operation. When cutting deep rabbets, take more than one pass to reduce the risk of kickback.
3. Adjust the fence and align the workpiece to perform the cutting operation, as shown in Figure 64.

Figure 64. Rabbet cutting.

4. Reconnect the saw to the power source and turn the saw ON. When the blade has reached full speed, perform a test cut with a scrap piece of wood. —If the cut is satisfactory, repeat the cut with the final workpiece.

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Cutting Rabbets with a Standard Blade

A ripping blade is typically the best blade to use for cutting rabbets when using a standard blade because it removes sawdust very efficiently. (See Page 34 for blade details.) Also, a sacrificial fence is not required when cutting rabbets with a standard blade.

To cut rabbets with the standard blade:

1. DISCONNECT SAW FROM POWER!
2. Ensure that the riving knife and standard table insert are installed.
3. Mark the width of the rabbet cut on the edge of the workpiece, so you can clearly identify the intended cut while it is laying flat on the saw table.
4. Raise the blade up to the desired depth of cut (depth of rabbet channel desired).
5. Stand the workpiece on edge, as shown in Figure 65, then adjust the fence so the blade is aligned with the inside of your rabbet channel.

Figure 65. Rabbet cutting with a standard blade.

—If the workpiece is very tall, or is unstable when placed against the fence, lay it flat on the table and use a dado blade to perform the rabbet cut.

WARNING

DO NOT place a tall board on edge to perform a rabbet cut with a standard blade. Workpieces that are too tall to properly support with the fence can easily shift during operation and cause kickback. Instead, place the stock flat on the saw and perform the rabbet cut with a dado blade, as instructed on Page 45.

6. Reconnect the saw to the power source, then perform the cut.
7. Lay the workpiece flat on the table, as shown in Figure 66, adjust the saw blade height to intersect with the first cut, then perform the second cut to complete the rabbet.

Figure 66. Second cut to create a rabbet.

Resawing

WARNING

Resawing operations require proper procedures to avoid serious injury. Extra care must be taken to prevent kickback when resawing. Any tilting or movement of the workpiece away from the fence will cause kickback. Be certain that stock is flat and straight. Failure to follow these warnings could result in serious personal injury.

Resawing is the process of cutting a thick piece of stock into one or more thinner pieces. Although resawing can be done with a table saw, we strongly recommend that you use a bandsaw instead.

A bandsaw is the ideal machine for resawing, and resawing with one is fairly easy and safe. A table saw is not intended for resawing, and resawing with one is difficult and dangerous due to the increased risk of kickback from binding and deep cuts, and the increased risk of injury from having to remove the guard.

If you insist on resawing with a table saw, DO NOT do so without using a resaw barrier and wearing a full face shield. The following instructions describe how to build a resaw barrier and add an auxiliary fence to your standard fence, to reduce the risk injury from resawing on a table saw.

Note: To determine the maximum resawing height for this table saw, find the maximum blade height, then double it and subtract 1/8".

Making Resaw Barrier

The resaw barrier acts in tandem with the rip fence when resawing to provide tall support for the workpiece to minimize the probability of it binding against the blade and causing kickback.

Tools Needed:

Components Needed for Resaw Barrier:

*Only use furniture-grade plywood, kiln dried hardwood, or HDPE plastic to prevent warping.

To build the resaw barrier:

1. Cut your wood pieces to the size specified above. If you are using hardwood, cut the pieces oversize, then joint and plane them to the correct size to make sure they are square and flat.
2. Pre-drill and countersink four holes approximately 3/8" from the bottom of the 5-1/2" tall wood piece.
3. Glue the end of the 3" board, then clamp the boards at a 90° angle with the larger board in the vertical position, as shown in Figure 67, fasten together with the wood screws.

Figure 67. Resaw barrier.

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Auxiliary Fence

The auxiliary fence is necessary if you are resawing a workpiece that is taller than it is wide. It should be no less than 1/2" shorter than the board to be resawn.

Components Needed for the Auxiliary Fence:

• Wood* 3/4" x (Height) x Length of Fence ........ 1

• Only use furniture-grade plywood, kiln dried hardwood, or HDPE plastic to prevent warping.

Tools Needed for the Auxiliary Fence:

• Table Saw ........ 1
• Jointer and Planer ........ Recommended
• Clamps ........ 2 Minimum

To build the auxiliary fence:

1. Cut the auxiliary fence board to size. If you are using hardwood, cut the board oversize, then joint and plane the board to the correct size to make sure the board is square and flat.
2. Unthread the fence face mounting hardware and remove the fence face from the fence assembly.
3. Place the auxiliary fence next to the fence face you removed in Step 1, mark the location of the nine mounting holes on the auxiliary fence, then drill the holes.
4. Use the mounting hardware that had previously attached the fence face to attach the auxiliary fence. The end result should be similar to Figure 68.

Fence Body Fence Facing Auxiliary Fence Figure 68. Auxiliary fence.

Resawing Operations

The table saw motor is pushed to its limits when resawing. If the motor starts to bog down, slow down your feed rate. Motor overloading and blade wear can be reduced by using a ripping blade. Ripping blades are designed to clear the sawdust quickly.

Components Needed for Resawing:

• Zero-clearance Insert ........ 1
• Ripping Blade 10" ........ 1
• Clamps ........ 2
• Shop Made Auxiliary Fence ........ 1
• Shop Made Resaw Barrier ........ 1

!WARNING You may experience kickback during this procedure. Stand to the side of the blade and wear a full face shield to prevent injury when resawing.

To perform resawing operations:

1. DISCONNECT SAW FROM POWER!
2. Remove the standard table insert and the blade guard assembly.
3. Install a ripping blade, install the riving knife, lower the blade below the table, then install the optional Model T20916 zero clearance table insert.
4. Attach the auxiliary fence and set it to the desired width.

Note: When figuring out the correct width, don't forget to account for blade kerf and the inaccuracy of the fence scale while the auxiliary fence is installed.

5. Place the workpiece against the auxiliary fence and slide the resaw barrier against the workpiece, as shown in Figure 69. Now clamp the resaw barrier to the top of the table saw at both ends.

Figure 69. Ideal resaw workpiece setup.

6. Lower the blade completely below the table, and slide the workpiece over the blade to make sure it moves smoothly and fits between the resaw barrier and fence.

7. Raise the blade approximately an inch, or close to half the height of the workpiece (Figure 70), whichever is less.

WARNING

The danger of kickback increases relative to the depth of a cut. Reduce the risk of kickback by making multiple passes to achieve the desired depth of cut. Failure to follow these warnings could result in serious personal injury.

CAUTION

Always use push sticks or push paddles to increase safety and control during operations which require that the blade guard and spreader must be removed from the saw. ALWAYS replace the blade guard after resawing is complete.

8. Plug in the table saw, turn it ON, and use a push stick or push block to feed the workpiece through the blade, using a slow and steady feed rate.

9. Flip the workpiece end for end, keeping the same side against the fence, and run the workpiece through the blade.

10. Repeat Steps 7–9 until the blade is close to half of the height of the board to be resawn. The ideal completed resaw cut will leave an 1/8" connection when the resawing is complete as shown in Figure 70. Leaving an 1/8" connection will reduce the risk of kickback.

Figure 70. Ideal completed resaw cut.

11. Turn OFF the table saw, then separate the parts of the workpiece and hand plane the remaining ridge to remove it.

12. When finished resawing, remove the resaw barrier and auxiliary fence, then re-install the blade guard/spreader or riving knife and standard table insert.