SECTION 5: ACCESSORIES
WARNING
Installing unapproved accessories may cause machine to malfunction, resulting in serious personal injury or machine damage. To reduce this risk, only install accessories recommended for this machine by Grizzly.
NOTICE
Refer to our website or latest catalog for additional recommended accessories.
131-1/2" Carbon Steel Replacement Blades
| Model | Width | TPI | Type | Gauge |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| H4803 | 1/8" | 14 | Raker | 0.025 |
| H4804 | 1/4" | 6 | Hook | 0.025 |
| H4805 | 1/4" | 18 | Raker | 0.025 |
| H4806 | 3/8" | 10 | Raker | 0.025 |
| H4807 | 1/2" | 6 | Hook | 0.025 |
| H4808 | 1/2" | 10 | Raker | 0.025 |
| H4809 | 3/4" | 3 | Hook | 0.032 |
| H4810 | 1" | 6 | Hook | 0.035 |
| H4811 | 1" | 2 | Hook | 0.035 |
131-1/2" Timber Wolf Carbon Steel Blades
| Model | Width | TPI | Type | Gauge |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| H8591 | 1/8" | 14 | HP | 0.025 |
| H8592 | 1/4" | 4 | Pos. Claw | 0.025 |
| H8593 | 1/4" | 10 | Raker | 0.025 |
| H8594 | 3/8" | 4 | Pos. Claw | 0.025 |
| H8595 | 3/8" | 10 | Raker | 0.025 |
| H8596 | 1/2" | 3 | Pos. Claw | 0.025 |
| H8597 | 1/2" | 10 | Raker | 0.025 |
| H8598 | 3/4" | 3 | Thin | 0.025 |
| H8599 | 1" | 3 | Pos. Claw | 0.035 |
T1194—Resaw Fence with Drift Bar
Designed to help reduce blade lead (cut drift) by creating a pivot point that provides more control during resaw operations. The Model T1194 fits the following Grizzly bandsaws:
- G0457
- G0513X
- G0513X2
- G0513X2F
- G0513X2B
- G0513X2BF
- G0514X
- G0514X2
- G0514X2B
- G0514X3
- G0514XF
- G0531B
- G0555X
- G0566B
- G0569
- G0636X
- G0636XB
- G0640X
- G0701
- G0778
- G0817

Figure 88. Model T1194 Resaw Fence w/Drift Bar.
order online at www.grizzly.com or call 1-800-523-4777
T26403—The Missing Shop Manual: Bandsaw Dedicated to providing integral information about woodworking tools and techniques that other manuals overlook, the books in this series contain safety facts, explanations about basic project set up, and tips for maximizing tool performance. In Bandsaw, you will find out how to best utilize this essential workshop tool, and how to get the most for your money by getting the most from your equipment. Filled with clear diagrams and instructions, this pocket sized durable manual is ideal for quick reference in the workshop. 112 pages, soft cover.

Figure 89. The Missing Shop Manual: Bandsaw.
Recommended Metal Protectants
G5562—SLIPIT® 1 Qt. Gel G5563—SLIPIT® 12 Oz. Spray G2871—Boeshield® T-9 12 Oz. Spray G2870—Boeshield® T-9 4 Oz. Spray H3788—G96® Gun Treatment 12 Oz. Spray

Figure 90. Recommended products for protecting unpainted cast iron/steel part on machinery.
Basic Eye Protection
T20501—Face Shield Crown Protector 4" T20502—Face Shield Crown Protector 7" T20503—Face Shield Window T20451—"Kirova" Clear Safety Glasses T20456—DAKURA Safety Glasses, Black/Clear T28175—S3960HS Stealth Safety Glasses

Figure 91. Assortment of basic eye protection.
D2057A—Heavy-Duty SHOP FOX® Mobile Base This patented base is the most stable on the market with outrigger type supports. Adjusts from 20" x 20-1/2" to 29-1/2" x 29-1/2". 1000 lb. capacity. Weighs 34 lbs.

Figure 92. D2057A SHOP FOX® Mobile Base.
order online at www.grizzly.com or call 1-800-523-4777 -58- G0513 Series Bandsaws (Mfd. Since 08/22)
T26544—LED Light w/Mag Base & Flex Arm This high intensity LED flashlight is ultra-bright and zoomable, allowing you to focus or disperse the light. Has three modes: high beam, low beam, and an emergency flash. Fish eye lens is 1x2000 zoom. Also features a powerful 40 lb. magnetic base, so you can attach this wherever you need light. Base has a 9" flexible clamp arm for additional mobility. Includes the LED light, base, plate, and 3 AAA batteries.

Figure 93. T26544 LED Light with Base and Flexible Arm.
T26419—NLGI#2 Syn-O-Gen Synthetic Grease Formulated with 100% pure synthesized hydrocarbon basestocks that are compounded with special thickeners and additives to make Syn-O-Gen non-melt, tacky, and water resistant. Extremely low pour point, extremely high temperature oxidation, and thermal stability produce a grease that is unmatched in performance.

Figure 94. T26419 Syn-O-Gen Synthetic Grease.
D2272—Tilting Roller Stand Adjusts from 26" to 44", 0°-45°. 150 lb. capacity. D2273—Single Roller Stand Adjusts from 26-1/2" to 45". 250 lb. capacity. D2274—5 Roller Stand Adjusts from 26" to 44-5/8". 250 lb. capacity. These super heavy-duty roller stands feature convenient hand knobs for fast height adjustment.

Figure 95. SHOP FOX® roller stands.
T10456—Heavy-Duty Anti-Fatigue Mat 3' x 5' This Heavy-Duty Anti-Fatigue Mat features beveled edges and no-slip tread for safety and comfort. Open-hole design allows liquid to drain through, so it's perfect for wet or oily conditions. Measures 3' wide x 5' long x 3/8" thick.

Figure 96. Model T10456 Anti-Fatigue Mat.
SB1094—5 HP Cyclone Dust Collector The Model SB1094 features a 5 HP motor, a whopping 2399 CFM of airflow capacity, and a 60-gallon collection capacity. It's packed with features like a built-in sound muffler, an automatic filter paddle brush for easy cleaning, a remote-controlled magnetic switch, and a quick-release lift handle for easy sawdust disposal.

Figure 97. SB1094 5 HP Cyclone Dust Collector.
D4206—Clear Flexible Hose 4" x 10' D4256—45° Elbow 4" D4216—Black Flexible Hose 4" x 10' W1034—Heavy-Duty Clear Flex Hose 4" x 10' D2107—Hose Hanger 4-1/4" W1015—Y-Fitting 4" x 4" x 4" W1017—90° Elbow 4" W1019—Hose Coupler (Splice) 4" W1317—Wire Hose Clamp 4" W1007—Plastic Blast Gate 4" W1053—Anti-Static Grounding Kit We've hand picked a selection of commonly used dust collection components for machines with 4" dust ports.

Figure 98. Dust collection accessories.
-60- G0513 Series Bandsaws (Mfd. Since 08/22)
SECTION 6: MAINTENANCE
! figure WARNING To reduce risk of shock or accidental startup, always disconnect machine from power before adjustments, maintenance, or service.
Schedule
For optimum performance from this machine, this maintenance schedule must be strictly followed.
Ongoing To minimize your risk of injury and maintain proper machine operation, shut down the machine immediately if you ever observe any of the items below, and fix the problem before continuing operations:
- Loose mounting bolts.
- Worn or damaged saw blade.
- Worn or damaged wires.
- Check/clean wheel brush.
- Clean/protect table surface.
- Check lubrication points.
- Any other unsafe condition.
Monthly Check
- V-belt tension, damage, or wear.
- Clean/vacuum dust buildup from inside cabinet and off motor.
Wheel Brush
The bandsaw is equipped with a lower wheel brush to keep saw dust from building up on the tire. The brush should be checked daily and cleaned when it becomes dirty.
There is an adjustment bracket that allows the brush to be adjusted for bristle wear (refer to Adjusting Wheel Brush on Page 68 for detailed instructions).
Cleaning & Protecting
Cleaning the bandsaw is relatively easy. Vacuum excess wood chips and sawdust, and wipe off the remaining dust with a dry cloth. If any resin has built up, use a resin dissolving cleaner to remove it.
Protect the unpainted cast iron surfaces on the table by wiping it clean after every use—this ensures moisture from wood dust does not remain on bare metal surfaces. Keep the table rust-free with regular applications of products like G96® Gun Treatment, SLIPIT®, or Boeshield® T-9 (see Page 58 for more details).
Lubrication
An essential part of lubrication is cleaning the components before lubricating them. This step is critical because dust and chips build up on lubricated components, which makes them hard to move. Simply adding more grease to built-up grime will not result in smooth moving parts. Clean the components in this section with an oil/grease solvent cleaner or mineral spirits before applying lubrication.
All bearings are sealed and permanently lubricated. Leave them alone until they need to be replaced.
Blade Post Rack & Pinion Lubrication Type ... T26419 or NLGI#2 Equivalent
- Amount ........ Thin Coat
- Frequency ........ As Needed
To lubricate the blade post rack and pinion:
- DISCONNECT MACHINE FROM POWER!
- Lower blade guides until they reach the table.

- Using a rag and mineral spirits, wipe off any existing grease and sawdust build-up on the rack (see Figure 99).

Figure 99. Example of rack lubrication location.
-
Apply a thin coat of lubricant to the rack.
-
Move the blade post up and down several times to distribute the lubricant, then remove any excess grease to help reduce potential sawdust build-up.
Tension Adjustment Assembly
Lubrication Type ... T26419 or NLGI#2 Equivalent
- Amount ........ Thin Coat
- Frequency ........ As Needed
To lubricate tension adjustment assembly:
-
DISCONNECT MACHINE FROM POWER!
-
Open the top wheel cover and look through the top of the wheel.
-
Using a rag and mineral spirits, wipe off any existing grease and sawdust build-up on the blade tension adjustment assembly and tension lever cam.
-
Apply a thin coat of lubricant to the tension adjustment assembly and tension lever cam (see Figure 100).

Figure 100. Example of tension adjustment assembly locations (top wheel removed for clarity).
Trunnions
Models G0513 and G0513A40 have steel trunnions that can be cleaned and lubricated with NLGI#2 grease or equivalent along the sliding surfaces (see Figure 101) when necessary.

Figure 101. Trunnion lubrication location (G0513 & G0513A40 only).
Models G0513X2 and G0513X2BF have cast iron trunnions that produce a fine graphite powder over time that acts as a lubricant. We recommend not adding lubricant to the trunnions which could make a sticky substance that would prevent smooth movement.
SECTION 7: SERVICE
Review the troubleshooting procedures in this section if a problem develops with your machine. If you need replacement parts or additional help with a procedure, call our Technical Support. Note: Please gather the serial number and manufacture date of your machine before calling.
Troubleshooting

Motor & Electrical
| Symptom | Possible Cause | Possible Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Machine does not start, or power supply breaker immediately trips after startup. | 1. Master power key switch in OFF position.2. Switch disabling pin installed.3. OFF button depressed/at fault.4. Incorrect power supply voltage or circuit size.5. Plug/receptacle at fault/wired incorrectly.6. Power supply circuit breaker tripped or fuse blown.7. Motor wires connected incorrectly.8. Thermal overload relay has tripped/at fault.9. Start capacitor at fault.10. Centrifugal switch adjustment/contact points at fault.11. Contactor not energized/at fault.12. Wiring broken, disconnected, or corroded.13. START/STOP switch or ON button at fault.14. Motor or motor bearings at fault. | 1. Turn master key switch to ON position (Page 3).2. Remove switch disabling pin.3. Rotate OFF button head to reset. Replace if at fault.4. Ensure correct power supply voltage and circuit size.5. Test for good contacts; correct the wiring (Pages 75–76).6. Ensure circuit is free of shorts. Reset circuit breaker or replace fuse.7. Correct motor wiring connections (Pages 75–76).8. Reset. Adjust or replace if at fault.9. Test/replace if at fault.10. Adjust centrifugal switch/clean contact points. Replace either if at fault.11. Test all legs for power; replace if necessary.12. Fix broken wires or disconnected/corroded connections.13. Replace switch/button.14. Replace motor. |
| Machine stalls or is underpowered. | 1. Dull blade.2. Workpiece material unsuitable for machine.3. Feed rate/cutting speed too fast.4. Workpiece crooked; fence loose or misadjusted.5. Machine undersized for task.6. Blade slipping on wheels or not properly tensioned.7. Belt slipping/pulleys misaligned.8. Motor wires connected incorrectly.9. Plug/receptacle at fault/wired incorrectly.10. Pulley slipping on shaft.11. Motor overheated.12. Run capacitor at fault.13. Extension cord too long.14. Contactor not energized/at fault.15. Centrifugal switch/contact points at fault.16. Motor or motor bearings at fault. | 1. Sharpen/replace blade (Page 51).2. Only cut wood/ensure moisture is below 20% (Page 44).3. Decrease feed rate/cutting speed.4. Straighten or replace workpiece/adjust fence.5. Use correct blade/reduce feed rate or depth of cut.6. Adjust blade tracking and tension (Pages 32–33).7. Clean/tension/replace belt (Page 66); ensure pulleys are aligned.8. Correct motor wiring connections (Pages 75–76).9. Test for good contacts/correct wiring.10. Tighten/replace loose pulley/shaft.11. Clean motor, let cool, and reduce workload.12. Test/repair/replace.13. Move machine closer to power supply; use shorter extension cord.14. Test all legs for power; repair/replace if at fault.15. Adjust centrifugal switch/clean contact points. Replace either if at fault.16. Replace motor. |
| Symptom | Possible Cause | Possible Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Machine has vibration or noisy operation. | 1. Motor or component loose.2. Blade weld at fault/teeth broken.3. Blade at fault.4. V-belt worn, loose, pulleys misaligned or belt slapping cover.5. Pulley loose.6. Motor mount loose/broken.7. Motor fan rubbing on fan cover.8. Centrifugal switch needs adjustment/at fault.9. Motor bearings at fault. | 1. Replace damaged/missing bolts/nuts; tighten if loose.2. Replace blade (Page 51).3. Replace warped/bent blade (Page 51); resharpen dull blade.4. Inspect/replace belt (Page 66). Re-align pulleys if necessary.5. Secure pulley on shaft.6. Tighten/replace.7. Fix/replace fan cover; replace loose/damaged fan.8. Adjust/replace if at fault.9. Test by rotating shaft; rotational grinding/loose shaft requires bearing replacement. |
| Blade or teeth break/crack. | 1. Blade tension incorrect.2. Blade incorrect for application.3. Excessive feed rate/pressure.4. Cutting corners too sharply.5. Blade dull/weld at fault.6. Blade tracking incorrectly.7. Blade guides/support bearings not adjusted properly, allowing guides to hit blade teeth.8. Blade guide height in wrong position.9. Wheel tires worn or incorrectly installed.10. Fence or miter slot out of alignment with blade.11. Bad blade guide bearings/bearings on wheels. | 1. Adjust blade tension (Page 32).2. Use correct blade for application (Page 46).3. Reduce feed rate/pressure.4. Use a wider arc on outside cuts, or use relief cuts to make tight inside cuts.5. Replace blade (Page 51).6. Adjust blade tracking (Page 33).7. Adjust blade guides/support bearings properly, so guides cannot hit teeth during operation (Pages 34–35).8. Adjust upper blade guide so blade is as close to workpiece as possible (Page 35).9. Replace or re-install tire.10. Align table and fence with blade (Pages 38–39).11. Replace blade guides/bearings. |
| Blade slows, smokes, shows overheating or wear on one side. | 1. Too much side pressure when feeding workpiece.2. Blade contacting table insert.3. Blade guides worn or misadjusted.4. Blade installed backwards or inside out.5. Wheels out of alignment.6. Dull, bell-mouthed, or incorrect blade.7. Fence not parallel with blade.8. Table surface not parallel or square to blade.9. V-belt loose or slipping. | 1. Feed workpiece straight into blade.2. Adjust blade guides to eliminate excess side pressure (Page 35); properly align table (Page 38).3. Adjust upper blade guides as close to workpiece as possible (Page 35).4. Check blade installation; make sure teeth face front of machine and point down in table throat. Re-install blade if necessary (Page 51).5. Adjust wheels so they are coplanar (Page 71).6. Replace blade (Page 51).7. Adjust fence/miter slot with blade (Pages 38–39).8. Adjust/shim table/trunnion position until blade and table are parallel and square (Page 38).9. Tighten V-belt (Page 66). Replace if worn or oily. |
| Finished workpieces are rough or show scoring. | 1. Blade overloaded and twists while cutting.2. Blade TPI too coarse.3. Blade loose and fluttering.4. Blade tracking incorrect.5. Blade has missing/bent teeth or faulty weld. | 1. Decrease feed rate (Page 46).2. Use correct blade for material and type of cut (Page 46).3. Increase blade tension as required (Page 32).4. Adjust blade tracking (Page 33).5. Replace blade (Page 51). |
| Table is hard to tilt. | 1. Table tilt lock lever tightened.2. Sawdust or pitch trapped between trunnion and base.3. Metal burrs on trunnion. | 1. Loosen table tilt lock lever (Page 45).2. Remove table and clean trunnion sliding surfaces of sawdust or pitch.3. Remove burrs. |
-64- G0513 Series Bandsaws (Mfd. Since 08/22)
| Symptom | Possible Cause | Possible Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Miter bar binds in miter slot. | 1. Miter slot dirty or gummed up.2. Miter bar bent. | 1. Carefully clean miter slot.2. Replace. |
| Blade tracks incorrectly or comes off wheels. | 1. Tracking is not adjusted properly.2. Wheels are not coplanar.3. Blade tension too loose.4. Blade guides/support bearings improperly adjusted.5. Feeding workpiece too fast.6. Incorrect blade for operation.7. Blade is bell-mouthed, worn, or dull.8. Wheel tire damaged or worn. | 1. Adjust tracking (Page 33).2. Adjust wheel coplanarity (Page 71).3. Increase blade tension (Page 32).4. Properly adjust blade guides/support bearings (Pages 34–35).5. Feed workpiece slower.6. Install correct blade (Page 46).7. Install new blade (Page 51) and remove tension from blade when not in use (Page 32).8. Redress or replace wheel tires. |
| Cut is crooked or blade wanders (blade lead). | 1. Excessive feed rate/pressure.2. Blade tension too loose.3. Blade is too narrow or tooth type/TPI is incorrect for the cut.4. Inadequate blade support.5. Blade dull or has damaged tooth set from improper blade guide/support bearing adjustment.6. Blade tracking incorrect.7. Table loose.8. Fence or miter slot out of alignment with blade.9. Blade guides/support bearings improperly adjusted.10. Tooth set uneven or teeth sharper on one side than the other.11. Blade is following grain of wood. | 1. Reduce feed rate/pressure.2. Increase blade tension (Page 32).3. Use wider blade. Ensure tooth type and TPI are correct (Page 46).4. Position upper blade guides as close to workpiece as possible. Properly adjust blade guides/support bearings (Pages 34–35).5. Replace blade (Page 51).6. Adjust blade tracking (Page 33).7. Tighten table trunnion bolts or tilt lock lever (Page 45).8. Align table and fence with blade (Pages 38–39).9. Properly adjust blade guides/support bearings (Pages 34–35).10. Replace blade (Page 51).11. Increase blade tension (Page 32). |
| Blade dulls prematurely. | 1. Wrong blade tooth type or TPI.2. Excessive feed pressure.3. Blade is twisted.4. Blade is slipping on wheel.5. Blade guides hitting teeth and ruining tooth set. | 1. Use blade with correct tooth type and TPI (Page 46).2. Reduce feed rate/pressure.3. Re-install/replace blade (Page 51).4. Adjust blade tension (Page 32); clean wheel tire.5. Properly adjust blade guides/support bearings (Pages 34–35). |
| Backside of blade deformation/cracking. | 1. Excessive feed rate/pressure.2. Blade tension too high.3. Incorrect blade guide alignment.4. Blade guides are worn.5. Blade tracking too far back; hitting lip of wheels. | 1. Reduce feed rate/pressure.2. Adjust blade tension (Page 32).3. Correct blade guide alignment (Pages 34–35).4. Replace blades guides.5. Adjust tracking (Page 33). |
| Sawdust buildup inside cabinet. | 1. Blade brushes under table are worn or misadjusted.2. Clogged dust port.3. Low CFM (airflow) from dust collection system. | 1. Properly adjust brushes; replace if necessary (Page 61).2. Clean dust port.3. Inspect ducting for leaks/clogs and repair as necessary; move dust collector closer to machine; install a stronger dust collection. |
| Gullets loaded with chips. | 1. Excessive feed rate/pressure.2. Blade TPI is too fine. | 1. Reduce feed rate/pressure.2. Install correct blade (Page 46). |
V-Belt Service
Checking V-Belt
To ensure optimum power transmission from the motor to the blade, the V-belt must be in good condition and properly tensioned. The belt should be free of cracks, fraying, and wear. Belt tension and condition should be checked at least every 3 months—more often if the bandsaw is used daily.
To check V-belt tension:
- DISCONNECT MACHINE FROM POWER!
- Open the lower wheel cover.
- Check the condition of the V-belt. If the V-belt is cracked, frayed, or glazed, replace it.
- Check V-belt tension by applying moderate pressure between the pulleys (see Figure 102). If deflection is not approximately 3/4", re-tension the V-belt following the same steps you used when changing blade speeds (refer to Changing Blade Speed on Page 52 if necessary).
Figure 102. V-belt deflection.
Replacing V-Belt
To replace the V-belt, you must remove the blade and the lower wheel. After re-installation, you must properly tension the V-belt.
Tools Needed:
- Hex Wrenches 6, 8mm ........ 1
To replace the V-belt:
- DISCONNECT BANDSAW FROM POWER!
- Open both wheel covers, and remove the blade (refer to Changing Blade on Page 51).
- Unthread the lower wheel mount bolt shown in Figure 103, and slide the lower wheel off the bearing shaft.
Figure 103. Example of wheel mount bolt.
- Loosen the motor mount cap screws shown in Figure 104.
Figure 104. Motor mount cap screws.
- Slip the old V-belt off of the wheel pulley and install the new V-belt in its place.
- Properly tension the V-belt and tighten the motor mount cap screws.
- Install the lower wheel and secure it with the wheel mount bolt.
- Install the blade and close the wheel covers.
-66- G0513 Series Bandsaws (Mfd. Since 08/22)
Blade Lead
"Blade Lead" means that the blade does not cut straight when using the fence or miter gauge (see Figure 105). This is a common condition with all bandsaws. Worn or damaged blades may cause lead, and replacing them will fix the problem. Still, if your bandsaw is set up correctly and blade lead occurs, compensate for it by skewing the fence.
Another solution is to install a drift bar on the resaw fence to create a pivot point that will provide more control during resaw operations (see Pages 55 & 57 for more details).
Figure 105. Example of blade leading away from line of cut.
Correcting Blade Lead
- Ensure blade is properly tensioned (see Tensioning Blade on Page 32).
- Ensure blade guides are adjusted correctly (see Adjusting Blade Guides on Page 35).
- Ensure miter slot and fence are parallel to blade (see Aligning Table on Page 38 and Aligning Fence on Page 39.
- Perform test cut with bandsaw, using less pressure when feeding workpiece through cut. — If there is still blade lead present, compensate for this condition by skewing the fence, as instructed in the following procedure.
Skewing Fence
-
Cut a straight and parallel wood board approximately 3/4" thick x 3" wide x 16" long.
Tip: Cut your board out of a new piece of 3/4" plywood, using a tablesaw. The straight "factory edge" of the plywood will ensure accuracy during the following steps. Alternatively, you can use a jointer and table-saw to straighten a piece of scrap wood.
-
On wide face of board, draw a straight line parallel to long edge, similar to layout line shown in Figure 105.
-
Slide fence out of the way and cut along lay-outline halfway through board. Turn bandsaw OFF and wait for blade to stop. Do not move board.
-
Clamp board to bandsaw table, then slide fence over to board so it barely touches one edge of board.
-
Loosen the four fence adjustment cap screws to left of fence face (see Figure 106), skew fence so it is parallel with wood board, contacting it evenly along its length, then tighten cap screws.
Figure 106. Location of fence adjustment cap screws (G0513X2 shown).
- Finish cut using fence. — If blade lead is still present, repeat Steps 1–5 until cutting results are satisfactory.
Adjusting Wheel Brush
The lower wheel has a brush, as shown in Figure 107, that is designed to sweep sawdust off the wheel tire as the wheel rotates. In order to work properly, the brush must make firm contact with the wheel.
Figure 107. A wheel brush.
Tools Needed:
- Wrenches or Sockets 10mm ........ 2
To adjust the brush:
- DISCONNECT MACHINE FROM POWER!
- Open the lower wheel cover.
- Loosen the bolt and nut that secures the brush in place.
- Adjust the brush so it makes firm, even contact with the wheel—without bending the bristles.
- Tighten the bolt and nut to secure the brush in place.
Adjusting Quick-Release Tension Lever
The quick-release tension lever was set up at the factory for use with the pre-installed 131-1/2" blade. However, if you install a different length blade, you will need to adjust the quick-release adjustment screw so that the quick-release lever works correctly.
Keep in mind that actual blade lengths may vary slightly by manufacture.
Tools Needed:
- Hex Wrench 5mm ........ 1
- Open-End Wrench 10mm ........ 1
To adjust the quick-release tension lever:
- DISCONNECT MACHINE FROM POWER!
- Open the wheel covers and install a new blade.
- Loosen the jam nut on the tension adjustment screw 7-10 turns (see Figure 108).
Figure 108. Example of quick-release tension lever adjustment screw.
- Engage the quick-release tension lever, then turn the blade tension handwheel until the blade tension matches the mark on the blade tension scale for the appropriate blade width.
- Thread the tension adjustment screw (see Figure 108) down until it contacts the wheel block plate, then back it off 1-2 turns.
- Tighten the jam nut.
Adjusting Guide Post Travel
The guide post assembly should remain parallel with the blade front-to-back and side-to-side along its length of travel. If it does not, follow these instructions to adjust it.
Important: Make sure the table is aligned with the blade from side-to-side and front-to-back before beginning these procedures (refer to Aligning Table on Page 38 for detailed instructions).
Tools Needed:
- Machinist's Square ........ 1
- Small Ruler ........ 1
- Hex Wrenches 4, 5mm ........ 1 Ea
- Metal Shims ........ (As Needed)
Checking/Adjusting Guide Post Parallel with Blade Side-to-Side
-
DISCONNECT MACHINE FROM POWER!
-
Loosen the guide post lock knob, lower the guide post to within 1" of the table top, then tighten the knob.
-
Place a machinist's square on the table next to the right hand side of the guide post, as shown in Figure 109.

Figure 109. Example of checking guide post squareness.
— If there is no gap between the square and the guide post along its full length, no adjustments need to be made. Proceed to the next procedure.
— If there is a gap between the square and the guide post, the guide post is not parallel to the blade. Go to Step 4.
- Loosen each of the four screws shown in Figure 110 1/4 turn.

Figure 110. Guide post adjustment screws.
-
Gently tap the lower part of the guide post in the appropriate direction until there is no gap between the square and the guide post.
-
Tighten the screws shown in Figure 110.
Checking/Adjusting Guide Post Parallel with Blade Front-to-Back
- DISCONNECT MACHINE FROM POWER!
- Loosen the guide post lock knob, lower the blade guide assembly to within 1" of the table top, then tighten the lock knob.
- Remove the screws that secure the guide post guard and move it up and out of the way.
- Measure the distance "A" between the upper front face of the guide post rack and the back of the blade (see Figure 111).

Figure 111. Example of measuring distance between rack and blade at top of guide post.
- Measure the distance "B" between the bottom front face of the guide post rack and the back of the blade (see Figure 111). — If the measurements taken in Steps 4–5 are equal, no adjustments need to be made. Proceed to Step 9. — If the measurements taken in Steps 4–5 are not equal, proceed to Step 6.
- Place the guide post guard on top of the guide post assembly so you can access the guide post bracket.
- Loosen the four screws shown in Figure 110 on the previous page enough to fit metal shims between the frame and the guide post bracket (see Figure 112). — If the guide post to blade distance is greater at the bottom than at the top, place a shim between the bottom of the bracket and the frame (Shim "A"). This will tilt the bottom of the guide post toward the blade. — If the guide post to blade distance is less at the bottom than at the top, place a shim between the top of the bracket and the frame (Shim "B"). This will tilt the bottom of the guide post away from the blade.

Figure 112. Location for placing shims.
- Tighten the four screws shown in Figure 110 on the previous page, then repeat Steps 4–5. — If the measurements are equal, go to Step 9. — If the measurements are not equal, continue adding shims as needed until guide post rack to blade distance is the same at the top and bottom.
- Install the guide post guard with the screws removed in Step 3.
Aligning Wheels
Components and Hardware Needed: Qty
- 56" Long 2x4 ........ 1
Tools Needed:
- Hex Wrenches 4, 6mm ........ 1 Ea
- Wrench 13mm ........ 1
- Tape Measure ........ 1
- Coplanarity Gauge (see Figure 113) ........ 1
- Straightedge ........ 1
- Fine Ruler ........ 1
Wheel alignment is one of the most critical factors for optimal performance from your bandsaw.
Heat, vibration, wandering, blade wear, tire wear, and overall bandsaw wear are considerably decreased when the wheels are properly aligned or "coplanar."
Coplanar wheels automatically track the blade by balancing it on the crown of the wheel. This is known as coplanar tracking.
Checking Coplanarity
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Make the "Coplanarity Gauge" shown in Figure 113.
Note: For best results, straighten the 2x4 with a jointer before cutting.
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DISCONNECT MACHINE FROM POWER!
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Remove the fence and open both wheel covers.
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Adjust the blade guides away from the blade, loosen blade tension, remove the table insert and pin, then remove the blade.
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Remove the table.
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Re-install the blade, making sure the blade guides and support bearings are away from the blade, then tighten the blade to the tension that will be used during operation.
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Place your coplanarity gauge up against both wheels in the positions shown in Figure 114.

Figure 113. Dimensions of coplanarity gauge.

Figure 114. Checking for coplanarity.
— If the wheels are coplanar (Figure 116, A), the straightedge will evenly touch the top and bottom of both wheels.
— If the wheels are not coplanar (Figure 116, B), place the straightedge on the lower wheel first (ensuring that it touches both the top and bottom rim), then adjust the upper wheel tracking knob to make the upper wheel coplanar and parallel with the lower wheel.
— If the straightedge does not touch both wheels evenly, the upper wheel needs to be shimmed (Figure 116, D) or the lower wheel needs to be adjusted (Figure 116, C).
Shimming Upper Wheel
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DISCONNECT MACHINE FROM POWER!
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Make sure the top wheel is adjusted parallel with the bottom wheel.
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With a straightedge touching both points of the wheel that does not need to be adjusted, measure the distance away from the wheel that is out of adjustment (see Figure 115).

Figure 115 Determining distance needed to shim upper wheel.
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Remove the blade from the saw, then remove the wheel that needs to be shimmed.
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Determine how many shim washers you need to compensate for the distance measured in Step 3 and place them on the wheel shaft.
\begin{tabular}{|p{0.45\linewidth}|p{0.45\linewidth}|} \hline \textbf{A} & \textbf{B} \ \hline Coplanar & Not Coplanar \ & Solution: Adjust Tracking Knob \ Gauge Contacts Top And Bottom of Both Wheels & Gauge Only Contacts Bottom Wheel. Top Wheel Needs to Be Tilted. \ \hline \textbf{C} & \textbf{D} \ \hline Not Parallel Not Coplanar & Parallel, Not Coplanar \ Gauge Contacts Wheels Unevenly & Solution: Shim Upper Wheel Out \ Solution: Adjust Lower Wheel Hub & Gauge Only Contacts Bottom Wheel \ \hline \end{tabular}
Figure 116. Coplanar diagram.
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Install the wheel, the original washers, the securing screw, and the blade.
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Tension the blade, then check the wheels with the coplanarity gauge. Wheel coplanarity changes as the blade is tightened, so it is best to check the wheel alignment when the blade is tensioned as it would be for normal operations.

- When the wheels are coplanar, place a mark on each wheel where you held the straightedge. This assures repeated accuracy every time you adjust your wheels.
Note: When wheels are properly coplanar, the blade may not be centered on the crown of the wheel, but it will be balanced.
Adjusting Lower Wheel
Only do this procedure if you cannot make the wheels coplanar with the tracking knob or by shimming the upper wheel. Make sure the upper wheel is adjusted as close as possible to being coplanar with the lower wheel before beginning. Do this procedure with the blade fully tensioned.
To adjust the lower wheel:
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DISCONNECT MACHINE FROM POWER!
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Loosen the jam nuts on the lower wheel adjustment hub (see Figure 117).

Figure 117. Lower wheel adjustment control.
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Loosen one tilt adjustment set screw, then tighten the opposing set screw an equal amount.
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Check the wheels with the coplanarity gauge, then adjust the lower wheel at the hub as needed until it is parallel and coplanar with the top wheel.
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Tighten the jam nuts to lock the tilt adjustment set screws in position.
Magnetic Brake Adjustment (G0513X2BF)
The space between the magnetic motor brake and brake shoe is preset by the factory at 0.008" (0.2mm). To compensate for this wear, you should adjust this space every two to three years, or if the brake takes over five seconds to stop the motor.
Tools Needed
- Phillips Head Screwdriver #2 ........ 1
- Feeler Gauges 0.008" ........ 2
- Hex Wrenches 3, 4mm ........ 1 Ea
To adjust the magnetic brake:
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DISCONNECT MACHINE FROM POWER!
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Remove the motor fan cover, then loosen the cap screws securing the motor fan and brake shoe (see Figure 118).

Figure 118. Adjusting distance between magnetic brake and brake shoe.
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Place the feeler gauge between the brake shoe and magnetic brake on either side.
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Tighten the cap screws on the brake shoe and motor fan, remove the feeler gauge, then install the motor fan cover.