Grizzly G0513 owner's manual: Section 4: operations

SECTION 4: OPERATIONS

Operation Overview

The purpose of this overview is to provide the novice machine operator with a basic understanding of how the machine is used during operation, so the machine controls/components discussed later in this manual are easier to understand.

Due to the generic nature of this overview, it is not intended to be an instructional guide. To learn more about specific operations, read this entire manual, seek additional training from experienced machine operators, and do additional research outside of this manual by reading "how-to" books, trade magazines, or websites.

!WARNING To reduce your risk of serious injury, read this entire manual BEFORE using machine.

!WARNING To reduce risk of eye injury from flying chips or lung damage from breathing dust, always wear safety glasses and a respirator when operating this machine.

NOTICE If you are not experienced with this type of machine, WE STRONGLY RECOMMEND that you seek additional training outside of this manual. Read books/magazines or get formal training before beginning any projects. Regardless of the content in this section, Grizzly Industrial will not be held liable for accidents caused by lack of training.

To complete a typical operation, the operator does the following:

1. Examines workpiece to make sure it is suitable for cutting.
2. Adjusts table tilt, if necessary, to correct angle of desired cut.
3. If using fence, adjusts it for width of cut and then locks it in place. If using miter gauge, adjusts angle and locks it in place.
4. Loosens guide post lock knob, adjusts upper blade guide height to just clear the workpiece (no more than 1/4"), then retightens guide post lock knob.
5. Checks to make sure workpiece can safely pass all the way through blade without interference from other objects.
6. Puts on safety glasses and respirator.
7. Starts dust collector, then bandsaw.
8. Holds workpiece firmly and flatly against both table and fence (or miter gauge), and then pushes workpiece into blade at a steady and controlled rate until cut is complete.

Operator is very careful to keep fingers away from blade and uses a push stick to feed narrow workpieces.

9. Stops bandsaw, then dust collector.

-42- G0513 Series Bandsaws (Mfd. Since 08/22)

Disabling & Locking Switch (G0513, G0513A40, G0513X2)

The switch can be disabled and locked by inserting a padlock through the power button, as shown in Figure 64. Locking the switch in this manner can prevent unauthorized operation of the machine, which is especially important if the machine is not stored inside an access-restricted building.

IMPORTANT: Locking the switch with a padlock only restricts its function. It is not a substitute for disconnecting power from the machine when adjusting or servicing.

Shaft Padlock START STOP Figure 64. Switch disabled by a padlock.

NOTICE

The padlock shaft diameter is important to the disabling function of the switch. With any padlock used to lock the switch, test the switch after installation to ensure that it is properly disabled.

Disabling & Locking Switch (G0513X2BF)

The power switch can be disabled and locked by removing the key, as shown. Locking the switch in this manner can prevent unauthorized operation of the machine, which is especially important if the machine is not stored inside an access-restricted building.

IMPORTANT: Locking the power switch with a key only restricts its function. It is not a substitute for disconnecting power from the machine when adjusting or servicing.

POWER 0 I

WARNING

Children or untrained people can be killed or seriously injured by this machine. This risk increases with unsupervised operation. To help prevent unsupervised operation, remove the key from the switch before leaving machine unattended! Place key in a well-hidden or secure location.

General Overview

The bandsaw is one of the most versatile wood cutting tools in the shop. It is capable of performing many different cutting functions including:

Straight Cuts

• Miters
• Angles
• Compound Angles
• Resawing
• Ripping
• Crosscutting

Irregular Cuts

• Simple and Complex Curves
• Duplicate Parts
• Circles
• Beveled Curves

A properly adjusted and tuned bandsaw can be safer to operate than most other saws and performs many functions with ease and accuracy.

Basic Cutting Tips

Here are some basic tips to follow when operating the bandsaw:

• Replace, sharpen, and clean blades as necessary and make adjustments periodically to keep the saw always running in top condition.
• Use a light and even feed rate while cutting. Light contact with the blade will permit easier line following and prevent undue friction.
• Avoid trying to turn tight corners because this will twist the blade. Remember, you must saw around corners.
• Misuse of the saw or using incorrect techniques is unsafe and results in frustration and poor cuts. Remember—the blade does the cutting with the operator's guidance.

Workpiece Inspection

Some wood workpieces are not safe to cut or may require modification before they are safe to cut.

Before cutting wood, get in the habit of inspecting all workpieces for the following:

• Material Type: This machine is intended for cutting natural and man-made wood products, and laminate covered wood products. Cutting drywall or cementitious backer board creates extremely fine dust, which may reduce the life of the bearings. This machine is NOT designed to cut metal, glass, stone, tile, etc.
• Foreign Objects: Nails, staples, dirt, rocks and other foreign objects are often embedded in wood. While cutting, these objects can become dislodged and hit the operator or break the blade, which might then fly apart. Always visually inspect your workpiece for these items. If they can't be removed, do NOT cut the workpiece.
• Large/Loose Knots: Loose knots can become dislodged during the cutting operation. Large knots can cause blade damage. Choose workpieces that do not have large/loose knots or plan ahead to avoid cutting through them.
• Wet or "Green" Stock: Cutting wood with a moisture content over 20% causes unnecessary wear on the blade and yields poor results.
• Excessive Warping: Workpieces with excessive cupping, bowing, or twisting are dangerous to cut because they are unstable and can move unpredictably when being cut. DO NOT cut excessively warped wood.
• Minor Warping: Workpieces with slight cupping can be safely supported if the cupped side faces the table or fence. On the contrary, a workpiece supported on the bowed side will rock during a cut, leading to loss of control.

-44- G0513 Series Bandsaws (Mfd. Since 08/22)

Tilting Table

To make beveled cuts, the table can be tilted as indicated below:

Model Tilt Specifications

• G0513, G0513A40 ........ 10° left, 45° right
• G0513X2, G0513X2BF ........ 5° left, 45° right

A table tilt scale with pointer is provided on the trunnion, and a positive stop is provided for quickly returning the table back to 0° from a right-tilt setting (see Figures 65–66).

Note: The tilt scale on the trunnion serves as a guide only. For more accurate results use a bevel gauge or protractor to set the desired table tilt relative to the blade.

Models G0513 & G0513A40

Figure 65. Table tilt controls (G0513 and G0513A40 rear view).

Models G0513X2 & G0513X2BF

Figure 66. Table tilt controls (G0513X2 & G0513X2BF rear view).

To tilt the table:

1. DISCONNECT MACHINE FROM POWER!
2. Loosen the lock lever to enable table movement.
3. Use the table tilt knob/lever to adjust the angle of the table as displayed on the angle indicator scale.
4. Secure the table with the lock lever/knob before continuing operation.

Setting Upper Blade Guide Height

When cutting, the blade guides must always be positioned so they just clear (no more than 1/4") the workpiece. The guide post, shown in Figure 67, allows the upper blade guide assembly to be quickly adjusted for height.

To adjust height of upper blade guides:

1. DISCONNECT MACHINE FROM POWER!
2. Loosen guide post lock knob (see Figure 67).

Figure 67. Guide post controls.

3. Use guide post elevation handwheel to adjust height of guide post so that blade guide assembly just clears (no more than 1/4") workpiece.
4. Retighten lock knob to secure setting.

Blade Selection

Selecting the right blade requires a knowledge of the various blade characteristics to match the blade with the particular cutting operation.

Blade Terminology

Figure 68. Bandsaw blade components.

A. Kerf: The amount of material removed by the blade during cutting. B. Tooth Set: The amount each tooth is bent left or right along the blade. C. Gauge: The thickness of the blade. D. Blade Width: The widest point of the blade measured from the tip of the tooth to the back edge of the blade. E. Tooth Rake: The angle of the tooth face from a line perpendicular to the length of the blade. F. Gullet Depth: The distance from the tooth tip to the bottom of the curved area (gullet). G. Tooth Pitch: The distance between tooth tips. H. Blade Back: The distance between the bottom of the gullet and the back edge of the blade. I. TPI: The number of teeth per inch measured from gullet to gullet.

Blade Dimensions

• Length Range ........ 130-1/2"–131-1/2"
• Width Range ........ 1/8"–1"

Blade Length Measured by the blade circumference, blade lengths are specific to each bandsaw. They are determined by the wheel diameter and distance between the wheels. Blades will vary slightly even in the same length because of how they are welded. Refer to the Accessories section later in this manual for blade replacements from Grizzly.

Blade Width Measured from the back of the blade to the tip of the blade tooth (the widest point), blade width is often the first consideration given to blade selection. Blade width dictates the largest and smallest curve that can be cut, as well as how accurately it can cut a straight line.

• Curve Cutting: Use the chart in Figure 69 to determine the correct blade for curve cutting. Determine the smallest radius curve that will be cut on your workpiece and use the corresponding blade width (refer to Cutting Curves on Page 56 for more information).

Figure 69. Recommended cutting radius per blade width.

• Straight Cutting: Use the largest width blade that you own. Large blades excel at cutting straight lines and are less prone to wander (known as blade lead—refer to Page 67 for more information on blade lead).

Tooth Style Figure 70 illustrates the three main blade tooth styles:

Figure 70. Main blade tooth styles.

• Raker: Considered to be the standard because the tooth size and shape are the same as the tooth gullet. The teeth on raker blades usually are very numerous, have no angle, and produce cuts by scraping the material. As a result, smooth cuts can be achieved without cutting fast or generating more heat than other tooth types.
• Skip: Similar to a raker blade that is missing every other tooth. Because of the design, skip toothed blades have a much larger gullet than raker blades, and therefore, cut faster and generate less heat. However, these blades also leave a rougher cut than raker blades.
• Hook: The teeth have a positive angle (downward) which makes them dig into the material, and the gullets are usually rounded for easier waste removal. These blades are excellent for the tough demands of resawing and ripping thick material.

Tooth Pitch

Measured as TPI (teeth per inch), tooth pitch determines the number of teeth. More teeth per inch (fine pitch) will cut slower, but smoother; while fewer teeth per inch (coarse pitch) will cut rougher, but faster. As a general rule, choose blades that will have at least three teeth in the material at all times. Use fine-pitched blades on harder woods and coarse-pitched blades on softer woods.

Tooth Set

Two common tooth sets for wood bandsaw blades are alternate and raker. Each different type of tooth set removes material in a different manner, leaving cuts with different characteristics (see Figure 71).

Figure 71. Common woodcutting bandsaw blade tooth sets.

• Alternate: An all-purpose arrangement where the teeth are bent evenly left and right of the blade.
• Raker: Three teeth in a recurring group—one bent left, one bent right, and then one that is not bent. The raker set is ideal for most contour cuts.

Blade Material

Bandsaw blades must meet two requirements: flexibility and hardness. The flexibility of a blade allows it to travel on the wheel as a band, while hardness allows the teeth to cut and hold an edge. Modern materials technology has allowed bandsaw blades to meet these requirements in various ways.

Carbon Steel: These blades are differentially heat treated to provide hard teeth that will hold an edge, and yet be flexible in the back.

Carbide Tooth: Extremely hard carbide is either welded onto or impregnated into the carbon steel blades, providing superior edge-holding characteristics (see Figure 72).

Figure 72. Carbide-tooth blade composition.

Bi-metal Blade: A strip of high-speed tool steel is precision welded to a flexible carbon blade, then teeth are ground into the blade to provide good edge-holding qualities for blades taking a lot of abuse (see Figure 73).

Figure 73. Bi-metal blade composition.

Blade Selection Chart

Use the blade selection chart below as a general guide when selecting a blade for your operation.

Key

Tooth Type

• H: Hook
• R: Raker
• S: Skip

Tooth Pitch (Teeth per Inch or TPI)

• F: Fine (14-32 TPI)
• M: Medium (4-12 TPI)
• C: Coarse (2-4 TPI)

Blade Care & Break-In

Blade Care

A bandsaw blade is a thin piece of steel that is subjected to tremendous strain. You can obtain longer use from a bandsaw blade if you give it fair treatment and always use the appropriate feed rate for your operation.

Be sure to select blades with the proper width, set, type, and pitch for each application. Using the wrong blade will produce unnecessary heat and shorten the life of the blade.

A clean blade will perform much better than a dirty blade. Dirty or gummed up blades pass through the cutting material with much more resistance than clean blades. This extra resistance also causes unnecessary heat.

Blade Break-In

The sharp teeth tips and edges of a new blade are extremely sharp, and cutting at too fast of a feed rate fractures the beveled edges of the teeth and causes premature blade wear.

To properly break-in a new blade:

1. Choose the correct speed for the blade and material of the operation.
2. Reduce the feed pressure by half for the first 50–100 in² of material cut.
3. To avoid twisting the blade when cutting, adjust the feed pressure when the total width of the blade is in the cut.

Blade Breakage

Many conditions may cause a bandsaw blade to break. Blade breakage is unavoidable in some cases, since it is the natural result of the peculiar stresses that bandsaw blades must endure.

Blade breakage is also due to avoidable circumstances. Avoidable blade breakage is most often the result of poor care or judgement on the part of the operator when mounting or adjusting the blade or support guides.

The most common causes of blade breakage are:

• Faulty alignment or adjustment of the blade guides.
• Forcing or twisting a wide blade around a short radius.
• Feeding the workpiece too fast.
• Dull or damaged teeth.
• Over-tensioned blade.
• Top blade guide assembly set too high above the workpiece. Adjust the top blade guide assembly so that there is approximately 1/8"–1/4" between the bottom of the assembly and the workpiece.
• Using a blade with a lumpy or improperly finished braze or weld.
• Continuously running the bandsaw when not in use.
• Leaving the blade tensioned when not in use.
• Using the wrong pitch (TPI) for the workpiece thickness. The general rule of thumb is to have not less than two teeth in contact with the workpiece at all times during cutting.

-50- G0513 Series Bandsaws (Mfd. Since 08/22)

Changing Blade

! WARNING Disconnect bandsaw from power BEFORE changing blade. Serious personal injury could occur if machine is started during this procedure.

! CAUTION LACERATION HAZARD! Bandsaw blades are sharp and difficult to handle. Wear heavy leather gloves while handling to reduce the risk of being cut.

Blade changes entail removing the existing blade, installing the new blade, then properly adjusting the blade tension and tracking.

Removing Blade

1. DISCONNECT MACHINE FROM POWER!
2. Release blade tension by turning blade tension quick-release lever to the left (see Figure 74).
3. Remove table insert and table pin (see Figure 74). Adjust upper and lower guide bearings as far away as possible from blade.

Quick-Release Lever Blade Guides Table Pin Table Insert Figure 74. Blade changing controls (G0513X2 shown).

4. Open the upper and lower wheel covers, and with gloved hands, slide the blade off of both wheels.
5. Rotate the blade 90° and slide it through the slot in the table to remove it.

Installing Blade

1. DISCONNECT MACHINE FROM POWER!

2. Slide the blade through the table slot, ensuring that the teeth are pointing down toward the table.

   Note: If the teeth will not point downward in any orientation, the blade is inside-out. Remove the blade, and twist it right side-out.

3. Slip the blade through the blade guides, and mount it on the upper and lower wheels (see Figure 75).

Figure 75. Placing blade on the wheels.

4. Tighten the blade tension lever.
5. Adjust the blade tension (refer to Page 32) and blade tracking (refer to Page 33).
6. Adjust the upper/lower guides and the support bearings (refer to instructions beginning on Page 34).
7. Close the wheel covers.
8. Replace the table insert and table pin.

Changing Blade Speed

The blade speed can be adjusted to 1700 or 3500 FPM. Speed adjustments are made by moving the V-belt position on the motor and wheel pulleys.

Most woodcutting can be performed successfully at the higher blade speeds. Slower blade speeds generally produce better results when cutting hardwoods, intricate curves, or when an exceptionally smooth cut is desired.

Use the chart below as a general guide to blade speed:

Tool Needed Qty

• Hex Wrench 8mm ........ 1

To adjust the blade speed:

1. DISCONNECT MACHINE FROM POWER!

2. Loosen motor mount cap screws (see Figure 76), and rotate motor to loosen the V-belt.

Figure 76. Motor mount cap screws.

3. Refer to Figure 77 to locate the correct V-belt position for the desired blade speed and move the V-belt to the indicated pulleys.

Figure 77. V-belt speeds.

4. Rotate the motor to tension the V-belt, then tighten the motor mount cap screws.

5. Check the V-belt tension by applying moderate pressure between the pulleys (see Figure 78). If deflection is not approximately 3/4", re-tension the V-belt until it is.

Figure 78. V-belt deflection.

-52-

Ripping

"Ripping" means cutting with the grain of the wood stock. For plywood and other processed wood, ripping simply means cutting down the length of the workpiece. Beveled rip cuts may be performed by tilting the table.

To make a rip cut:

1. Adjust fence to match width of cut on your workpiece, then lock fence in place.
2. Adjust blade guide assembly to proper height above workpiece.
3. After all safety precautions have been met, turn bandsaw ON and wait for it to come to full speed. Slowly feed workpiece into blade until blade is completely through workpiece. Figure 79 shows an example of a ripping operation.

Figure 79. Example of a ripping operation.

WARNING ALWAYS use a push stick when ripping narrow pieces. Failure to follow these warnings may result in amputation or laceration injuries!

WARNING NEVER place fingers or hands in the line of cut. If you slip, your hands or fingers may go into the blade and may be cut.

Crosscutting

Crosscutting is the process of cutting across the grain of wood. For plywood and other processed wood, crosscutting simply means cutting across the width of the material. Crosscuts can be 90° or angled using the miter gauge. Compound cross-cuts are those where the miter is angled and the table tilted.

To make a crosscut:

1. Mark workpiece on edge where you want to begin cut.
2. Adjust blade guide assembly to proper height above workpiece.
3. Adjust miter gauge to correct angle needed for cut.
4. Move fence out of the way. Place workpiece evenly against miter gauge, then line up mark with blade.
5. After all safety precautions have been met, turn bandsaw ON and wait for it to come to full speed. Slowly feed workpiece into blade until blade is all the way through workpiece. Figure 80 shows an example of a crosscutting operation.

Figure 80. Example of a crosscutting operation with the miter gauge.

Resawing

"Resawing" means cutting the thickness of a board into two or more thinner boards (see Figure 81 for an example). The maximum height of a board that can be resawn is limited by the maximum cutting height of the bandsaw.

One of the most important considerations for resawing is blade selection—a wide blade cuts straighter and is less prone to blade lead (see Blade Lead on Page 67 for more details).

For most applications, use a blade with a hook or a skip tooth style. Choose blades with fewer teeth-per-inch (from 3 to 6 TPI), because they offer larger gullet capacities for clearing sawdust, which reduces heat buildup and strain on the motor.

Figure 81. Example of a resawing operation.

⚠WARNING

When resawing thin pieces, a wandering blade (blade lead) can tear through the side of the workpiece, exposing your hands to the blade teeth. Always use push blocks when resawing and keep your hands clear of the blade.

Using Resaw Fence

Models G0513A40, G0513X2, and G0513X2BF include a resaw fence.

To use resaw fence:

1. Verify bandsaw is set up properly, and table is perpendicular to blade.
2. Use widest blade the bandsaw will accept.
3. Install resaw fence (see Figure 82), set it to desired width of cut, and lock it in place.

Figure 82. Resaw fence mounted in vertical position.

Note: When resawing thin workpieces, set up resaw fence in horizontal position, as shown in Figure 83.

Figure 83. Fence mounted in horizontal position.

Horizontal Position Allows Upper Blade Guide to Be Adjusted Closer to Thin Workpieces

4. Support ends of board as necessary.
5. Turn machine ON.
6. Using push paddles and a push stick, keep pressure against fence and table, and slowly feed workpiece into moving blade until blade is completely through workpiece.

-54- G0513 Series Bandsaws (Mfd. Since 08/22)

Using Drift Bar

Model G0513A40 includes a drift bar that installs on the resaw fence and is designed to help reduce blade lead by creating a pivot point that provides more control during resaw operations.

To use drift bar:

1. Secure drift bar on resaw fence with adjustable handle. Make sure drift bar is flat against fence face and is straight up and down.
2. Slide resaw fence over moving plate on fence assembly and tighten lock handle.
3. Move resaw fence up to blade so center of drift bar is set approximately 1/4" forward of blade teeth (see Figure 84).

Figure 84. Resaw fence with drift bar installed.

4. Mark reference cut line along top of workpiece (see Figure 85).
5. Lower bandsaw blade guides as close to workpiece as possible (see Figure 85).
6. Adjust resaw fence so blade aligns with mark made in Step 4 and center of drift bar is set 1/4" forward of blade teeth (see Figure 85).

Figure 85. Workpiece positioned to cut using resaw fence with drift bar.

7. Lock rip fence and resaw fence in position.
8. If necessary for cutting operation, support ends of board with saw stand or roller stand.
9. Turn bandsaw ON.
10. Slowly feed workpiece completely through blade. Use drift bar as a pivot point to control cut, as shown in Figure 86.

Note: The drift bar allows you to steer your workpiece while cutting to quickly correct blade lead and keep blade aligned with cut line.

Figure 86. Resawing with drift bar.

Cutting Curves

When cutting curves, simultaneously feed and turn the stock carefully so the blade follows the layout line without twisting. If curves are sharp or tight, use a narrower blade with more TPI (teeth per inch) and make relief cuts to avoid having to back the workpiece away from the blade.

Always make short cuts first, then proceed to the longer cuts. Relief cuts reduce the chance of the blade being pinched or twisted. Relief cuts are cuts made through the waste portion of the workpiece and are stopped at the layout line, so when you're cutting along the layout line, waste wood is released from the workpiece, alleviating any pressure on the back of the blade. Relief cuts also make it easier to back the workpiece out once the saw blade has come to a stop, if needed.

NOTICE

The list below displays blade widths and the corresponding minimum radii for those blade widths.

Stacked Cuts

One of the benefits of a bandsaw is its ability to cut multiple copies of a particular shape by stacking a number of workpieces together. However, before making stacked cuts, ensure that the table is perpendicular (90°) to the blade—otherwise, any error in this setting will be compounded in the workpieces.

To complete a stacked cut:

1. Align workpieces from top to bottom.
2. Secure all pieces together in a manner that will not interfere with cutting. Hot gluing along edges works well, as does brad nailing through waste portion. (Be careful not to cut into brads or you may break blade!)
3. Lay out shape you intend to cut on face of top piece.
4. Make relief cuts perpendicular to outline of your intended shape in areas where changes in blade direction could strain woodgrain or cause blade to bind.
5. Cut stack of pieces along your layout line as though you were cutting a single piece (see Figure 87 for an example of a stacked cut setup).

Figure 87. Example of a stacked cut setup.

-56- G0513 Series Bandsaws (Mfd. Since □□/□□)