We want to add a wood burning stove to our bedroom/house wing. My wife
thinks it best to go up from the stove, 90 through the wall, and 90 through
the metal awning. I say a straight shot through the roof with a double
walled pipe with no 90's, much less TWO.
Comments from anyone with experience appreciated.
on 9/26/2011 5:35 PM (ET) Ed Pawlowski wrote the following:
I clean my flue pipe with a 24' chimney sweep kit. Straight run from the
roof to the boiler in the basement. It doesn't make 90º turns though.
What would you use to clean the level parts where most of the debris
Heated an 1884 Victorian for 10 years, Steve. The pipe came out of the back of
the stove (90ª #1), went up about 6' and turned (90ª #2) horizontal to and
original thimble, into the flue (90ª #3), and never had a problem.
The good part was that the original flue dropped below the thimble into the
basement where there was a clean out for the original (bricked up) fireplace.
Cleaning was simple. Every morning, I opened the ports on the stove and let 'er
rip. After a short time, I could hear the creosote dropping into the trap. I
followed this routine every evening at about dinner time.
I did have a chimney service clean the system once a year. Most of the crap had
fallen into the old flue section below the thimble.
I know this is not a direct response to your query, but my point is that 90ª
turns don't seem to hurt. Of course the masonry flue was over thirty feet tall
and developed one heck of a draft. :-)
We burned about eight chords of hardwood a year.
New Eagle, PA
I burned wood for 25 years or so.
I think your biggest variable is what kind of stove you have and what
kind of wood you're burning. If you use an old *not* 'airtight'
stove and don't just smolder it all day with green wood-- it won't
matter what your flue does, there won't be any appreciable creosote.
If you have an airtight and burn green wood or burn slow all the time,
those 90s will drip creosote that would just disappear into the stove
with a straight run.
*My* stoves went into masonry chimneys after 2 90s - but I never had a
bit of creosote. I always burned seasoned wood-- and burned a good
hot fire once a day.
That said-- even now that propane is costing me a tiny bit more for
each BTU produced, it is still safer, easier and cheaper than wood in
the long run. If I had enough free wood on the property I might
be tempted to put a wood burner back in. . . . . nah- I've got better
things to do with my time than fight with wood.
I've been heating with wood since, ummm, 1977. cut every stick of it
(6 plus cords/year).
Yes, it causes a mess in the house.
Yes, it is work but it keeps you in shape without having to buy a gymn
Currently ending this cutting season by removing 2 old, dying Black
Locust. Thinking I may quit cutting after that as I am approaching 80
at an very faster pace and am down to, at a max, 4 hours of that hard
physical labor - don't get a lot done for each trip out.
That's what I keep telling my wife when she tells me to quit. "you've
got enought wood" Too bad she's refering to the wood pile though. I
do have over 40 cords of B. Locust - should last me about 6-7 years if
I cut no more.
Going out then up IS a viable option, BUT, having said that, you want to
keep your horizontal run as short as possible and it should have some
upward slope to it. It would be better if this horizontal pipe was
insulated also as to keep the internal temp of the pipe up as possible
to prevent deposits. Straight out the top would be best. If you go out
through the wall and up you should still use the insulated or triple
wall pipe for the same reason even on the vertical.
remove the "not" from my address to email
You will get slightly higher heating efficiency if you keep most of the
run within the interior so you get additional heat transfer and
radiation from the pipe. Transition to insulated pipe as you get to the
ceiling so the rest radiates better. Get a stove with sealed combustion
and a ducted combustion air inlet fed from outdoors.
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