Wiring protection auto or similar application?

Working on JLG 40H manlift; the choke control solenoid failed so previous owners just bypassed and jumpered battery/ignition voltage to the control logic circuit and connected it to the choke solenoid. This worked for a while, but the small conductor wire with long run from the controls in the bucket isn't pulling sufficient current reliably so am in process of putting back to way it is supposed to be...new power solenoid to feed power, move controls back to control-only.

As long-winded preamble, there's a solid protective sheath over the wire runs internal to the machine for wear and thermal and oil/gas protection; it's solid plastic material of some sort (similar in appearance to, but heavier than shrink tube). I'd like something similar when run the replacement wiring (not only did they jumper stuff, the maroons then chopped the bypassed stuff off so have to rerun those).

But, I've not found anything local that really suits; anybody got any ideas for what this might have been? There's a lot of braided I could use but because there is quite a lot of oil/grease/dirt in this old thing I'd kinda' like the solid if could find it.

Also, there are 4 to 6-ft runs so need something I can buy like a 25-ft roll of, not just 2-ft sections...

Clare, you got any ideas, maybe... ???

Reply to
dpb
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On 9/6/2018 2:09 PM, dpb wrote: ...

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Oh, for immediate need a 3/16" or 1/4" D would be ideal; if can find something I'm sure it'll also come in various diameters...there's a variety of this stuff from small like this to as much as 1-1/2" for the main control cable bundles...

Reply to
dpb

How about Viton tubing or similar? Auto parts stores have it by the foot. They may have something less expensive that's fuel resistant too.

Reply to
trader_4

I was going to suggest fuel line. How about hydraulic hose? Flexible pvc electrical tubing?

Reply to
Dean Hoffman

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Thanks...what was available locally all is a much thicker wall thickness than I was hoping to find...if I don't find something I'll probably just break down and order some (or see if local parts have any except short pieces) of the braided and go on...

For the fuel trailer I transformed the old pull sprayer under-carriage into, I happened onto some surplussed 3/8" pex Ace had in their 50-cent bin...it made a nice conduit for it so no danger catching wiring on anything...

Reply to
dpb

bout hydraulic hose?

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Reply to
trader_4

How heavy are the wires? How many conductors in this sheath? How big is the sheath? I have several ideas dependingon your answers

Reply to
Clare Snyder

Try Nylaflex tubing? Or how about PEX? Use black Nylaflex - it is ozone/ultraviolet resistant. Used for air brake hoses, automotive fuel lines, etc.

Reply to
Clare Snyder

Air Brake tubing, comes in various sizes.

Reply to
albosch1955

On 9/6/2018 4:09 PM, Clare Snyder wrote: ...

The particular missing run is just one 10 ga power feed to the choke solenoid...there are others from 1 14-16 ga conductor to a 30-conductor cable but I don't have to deal with one of those! :)

Reply to
dpb

Nylaflex air brake tubing, 1/4 ID

Reply to
Clare Snyder

You sure you're not over engineering it? Wire insulation for auto use is to ugh, I've never seen it affected by oil, if gas is getting on it, a bit of that won't harm it either, if it's more than that you have other problems. I'd only be concerned about physical abrasion, ie if it's exposed, subject to movement, etc. And hopefully it's fused.

Reply to
trader_4

It's all of the above in this beast...I've found several damaged locations while digging out the mess left by the previous maroons when they butchered the control circuitry to bypass power solenoid so I'd prefer to have it over-"engineered" than not. And, JLG did use the sheathing originally on virtually everything...it's not usual for a vendor to add unnecessary ornamentation.

The choke power does go thru circuit breaker on the way to the forum, yes...altho that was bypassed by hooking the control signal wire from the operator platform directly to the choke solenoid instead of just replacing the failed power relay...

Reply to
dpb

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Well, it's _so_ nice to be able to control the choke from the bucket again!!! Don't have to worry about whether it'll start w/o it or have to leave running continuously.

And, actually, it turns out the cable I thought they had cut I finally found the end of pushed back under the mass jumble of hydraulic hoses and other cables so it turned out I didn't need a new run of the sheath material after all... :)

But, took a fair part of a day to reroute and reconnect the pieces of the control circuitry with some time along the way to sorta' "tidy-up" other bits 'n pieces of less-than-stellar repair work done previously.

Replacing the failed solenoid wouldn't have been more than about a

15-minute operation back at the time it went bad. Since it spent its former life before I acquired it as a rental unit, I suppose it was on site and they needed it and the rental folks didn't have part on hand or they never bothered to call and just jury-rigged it to be able to keep using it...in all fairness, it did work pretty reliably for the first several years as long as we kept the ground connections all really, really good. Over last several, however, it has become more and more troublesome until it simply wouldn't operate at all from the remote location.

I hadn't actually been aware that the solenoid had failed and it was mis-wired until really began troubleshooting the problem and discovered were trying to power it from the control circuit instead of the power circuit.

Reply to
dpb

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