Window AC Compressor won't shut off

I have to work it manually. I can hear the thermostat click if I turn it up or down, but the compressor just runs the whole time. The room will get too cold if I leave it run. I can have it on fan only, and turn the thermostat all the way down and hear it click, but if I turn it to A/C the compressor kicks in right away. Could there be a relay in there stuck or burnt together? Thanks, Tony

Reply to
ant30dio
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I had a bad double capacitor do that to me once on a full size split system. The power for the fan was backfeeding through the capacitor to the compressor.

Need to look at the circuit and start checking things out with a meter. Often the circuit diagram is inside the housing somewhere.

Reply to
jamesgangnc

Sounds like the thermostat is stuck. Or, more correctly, the electrical contacts within the thermostat.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

OK thanks, But would I still hear a "click" when I turn it (the thermostat) from low to high? Thanks, Tony

Reply to
ant30dio

Yes. The click is the coil pulling the relay armature down, but the contacts could still be stuck solid. Try a new relay, and odds are your problem could be gone.

Joe

Reply to
Joe

I cant recall seeing a thermostat labeled Low and High. Usually those are fan speed settings. Does the low and high knob you are turning have some extra travel in between the low and high or does it just click from low to high?

Reply to
Jeff The Drunk

Reply to
ant30dio

No sorry, it don't really say High and low, It is actually labeled

1-10.

Thanks, Tony

Reply to
ant30dio

Ok that makes sense. If you gave the capacity in BTU/hr and the voltage it might help. If you actually hear contacts clicking and not just some of the mechanics inside the thermostat clicking there might be a stuck relay. I've seen welded shut contactor points on residential compressors so it's possible on a window unit if equipped with a contactor aka relay.

Reply to
Jeff The Drunk

Reply to
ant30dio

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A good appliance parts store like we have nearby in the Chicago suburbs can probably cross-match the thermostat to another one. Where are you located?

Reply to
hrhofmann

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lay.- Hide quoted text -

I am Near Wheeling WV. We have a Appliance connection (the name of it) in town I will check with to try to get the best price. Repair Clinic .com has it for $45.00 plus shipping. Thanks, Tony

Reply to
ant30dio

Yes, very possible. You could dissemble, and check for continuity at the stat, and then rotate the knob. See if continuity makes and breaks.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

Stat itself; no relay. Access from front.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

Yeah Good call Christopher, looks like thats what it is, see my post above with the pictures.

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Tony

Reply to
ant30dio

Thanks. Nice to hear a kind word, once in a while. I got your picture, but not sure what it was, or what was going on, in the pic. No big loss.

Glad it worked out well, for you.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

This is a 220V unit. Do you know If I could swap out the one from a 110V unit I am not using , As long as there are only 2 connections going to it,till I get the new one ordered. I have to get it on line, as no one local carries it. The old T-Stat does say on it;120/277 VAC. Have not looked at the one in the 110V unit yet. Thanks, Tony

Reply to
ant30dio

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Well Maybe I better not!? The 220 Volt unit states;

20/20 FLA 80/80 LRA 120/277
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Where the 110 Volt Unit states 12/6 FLA 60/30 LRA 120/240
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like the T stat from the 110 Volt unit may not be able to handle the amps.

Thanks, Tony

Reply to
ant30dio

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I ordered the T-Stat today from repair clinic.com,and it will be here tomorrow they said. That is quick! I just put the 110 volt T-Stat back in the 110 Volt unit and put it in another window for now. It's nowhere as powerful as the 220 unit, But I can cool the room with the 220 Volt unit (T-Stat jumped out) and use the little one to maintain the temperature.

Question; There is a large capacitor in the 220 V unit, after I unplug the unit, can I just short the capacitor leads to the case one at at time, or do I need to use some type of shunt, like a light bulb. Thanks, Tony

Reply to
ant30dio

Most likely, it will work. Can't guarantee the 110 volt stat is safe with 220 volt power.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

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