My craftsman riding mower, Model# 917.275661 run fine for 20-30 minutes then
shuts down when the 20 amp fuse blows, it doesn't appear to be hot and will
restart and run right away for a short time when the fuse is replaced. So what
is the problem?
Wild guess, something is shorting out due to heat, some electrical
parts(electronics component) is heat sensitive on the verge of
Don't keep replacing fuse, it is trying to protect something.
You need to measure the current going through the fuse.
Likely it is overloaded.
The likely cause is there is undue load on the system
or a short circuit. You will have to identify what it is.
You need to do this urgently or something will get damaged.
Since he's blowing 20A fuses repeatedly, he already knows the current is
>20A. That's good enough--it's not the magnitude of current that he
needs to know; it's obvious it's too much. That it is apparently
time-related, one presumes as another has already done it's
temperature-related and somewhere in the ignition/charging system.
Well, it would help if had diagram to know what is on this particular
fuse if there is more than one or only a specific portion of the system
is fused through the one if this is the only one used...
On Tuesday, May 14, 2013 9:42:40 AM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
You might, but it might not occur to the OP. Most people fit into two major
1. They *THINK* they know how electricity works but couldn't be more wrong.
2. They have absolutely no conceptual knowledge of electricity altogether. It
may as well be magic.
People fitting into category 1 would replace the fuse with larger and larger
fuses until the problem went away. Eventually the wiring harness would catch
fire, ultimately solving the problem.
People fitting into category 2 repeatedly replace the fuse with the
correct-sized one, hoping that the problem will somehow heal itself.
The OP never mentioned what the fuse is for. If it goes to the engine,
the ignition coil may be bad, or a bad capacitor (just replace the cap
for starters). But the fuse could be for a headlight, or anything else.
I still say there is a frayed wire, second guess would be the cap, then
the coil. If it's electronic ignition, it could be that too.
Just as coimmon on a yard tractor is a corroded fuse holder which
overheats and blows the fuse at well within the rated current - but
the only way to KNOW is to install an ammeter in place of the fuse to
check the current (well there is another way - a clamp on ammeter -
but it is less accurate unless you spend more money than necessary)
On May 14, 7:24 pm, email@example.com wrote:
Clamp on ammeters are mostly for AC circuits and the lawn tractor
is most likely completely DC, stabilized by the battery, with the
charging alternator using a rectifier stack ...
Clamp on DC ammeters are possible, but use a different principle,
and all the ones I have seen are much more expensive...
Runs for a short time after replacing fuse, but not as long as when it
had been off for a long time.
Sounds like a possibility that the wiring in the motor 'swells' with
heat, shifts and shorts out a small section of a turn - fuse blows.
Starts cooling down while you look for a fuse, the wiring starts
shrinking back until no more short, you replace fuse, and it runs for
a while, but not as long as before.
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