On Sun, 27 Mar 2016 07:58:08 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
Why not use a piece of hardwood lagged to the wall with a dovetail
cut across the back of the frame - screw the frame to the hardwood
cleat with screws behind the floor flanges. Cut the hardwood cleat
with an angle to fit the dovetail cut.. You can blind dove-tail so it
doesn't show at the end of the frame.. Every bit as strong as the
hardware solution - and you can truthfully say you made it all
On Sunday, March 27, 2016 at 4:14:01 PM UTC-4, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I considered that, but I didn't want to remove that much of the frame. The
frame is made from 5/4 pine and I figure the cleat would have to be a
least 3/4. I'm sure that would have left enough wood, but I decided to go
with a metal cleat.
Besides, it's not like I made the pipe either. ;-)
On Sun, 27 Mar 2016 18:14:38 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
1 half inch birch or maple cleat will hold around 100 lbs with no
problem. using a "fender washer" to spread the load of the rack/frame
the 5/4 pine will also be more than adequate - particularly with the
pipe flange carrying half of the load directly to the pine sitting ON
the cleat, and the flange holding the pine together so it can'r split
from the load.
On Saturday, March 26, 2016 at 5:44:13 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
pipe. As you can see from
fittings are bright copper, the
so that it matches
Maybe assemble everything, then buff all surfaces with emory cloth to
get as close to the same finish as possible? Someone at a hobby store
will probably know what kind of clear coating can be used to prevent
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