A long time ago I needed to cap a pipe, so I decided to try a SharkBite End
Cap just to see what they were like. It worked so well that I said to
myself, "Self, maybe you should toss a couple of End Caps in the plumbing
drawer just in case you need to cap a pipe in an emergency."
So, here it is, 9 PM on a Friday night and I walked down into the basement
to find that the pipe from the water heater has developed a pin hole leak.
So, off with the main, a couple of quick cuts to remove the bad section,
push on 2 caps and back on with the main.
No showers tomorrow morning, but at least we have water tonight. Tomorrow,
I can take my time replacing the bad section.
...and that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop.
On Friday, March 18, 2016 at 11:47:44 PM UTC-4, Vic Smith wrote:
I don't know. The pinhole was on a short (4") section of pipe between
a T and a 90. I cut the pipe exactly at the pin hole, leaving about
1" sticking out the T. (That left me enough room to put the cap on. I'll
need to replace the T and the 90 tomorrow)
Anyway, after I cut the pipe I noticed that the pin hole had begun to
turn into a slit, I assume from the pressure of the cutter. That tells
me the leak was about to get much bigger.
As I said, I cut the pipe exactly at the pin hole and this is what I found
inside the pipe right at the cut. (Ignore the outside of the pipe. I had
cleaned the outside before cutting it.)
I can't tell if the "scale" that you see is buildup or what's left behind
from disintegrating copper. It extends down about 1/2" but it is all around
the inside of the pipe at the cut, not just on the side where the hole was.
I have a plumbing supply house that I like, so I may take the piece over
there and have them tell me what's going on. In any case, the rest of that
short piece of pipe will be gone first thing in the morning.
On Fri, 18 Mar 2016 21:30:16 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
Let us know what they say. I'm curious. I'll be repiping my
galvanized soon with copper. Because I don't have my threading
tools anymore, copper pipe is cheaper, and it might make a difference
in the house's resale value.
The piping is 58 years old. No leaks, but the flow is getting
restricted enough that it's time to do it.
Yes, I've checked. http://forms.mortongroveil.org/code/
890 appendix A, table A. Delete "Approved Building Drainage/Vent
Pipe", "Approved Materials For Building Sewer", "Approved Material For
Water Service Pipe", and "Approved Materials For Water Distribution
Pipe" and replace with:
Approved Materials For Water Service Pipe
Ductile iron water pipe AWWA C151; AWWA C115
Copper or copper alloy pipe ASTM B42; ASTM B302
Copper or copper alloy tubing (type K only) ASTM B75; ASTM B88;
Approved Materials For Water Distribution Pipe
Copper or copper alloy pipe ASTM B42; ASTM B30
Copper or copper alloy tubing (type K or L) ASTM B75; ASTM B88;
Galvanized steel pipe ASTM A53
On Saturday, March 19, 2016 at 12:58:44 AM UTC-4, Vic Smith wrote:
I finished sweating in the new section. I noticed that when I tried
to use the same type fittings as the originals - a T and a 90, the
horizontal pipe from the WH would not line up with the 90.
One of the issues (I think) is that the pipe that goes to the upstairs
bathroom from the top of the T is not a straight run. They apparently
used a bender to put some curves in the pipe. Therefore the pipe coming
out of the bottom of the T was not at a right angle to horizontal pipe
to the water heater, even though they had used a 90 to connect those
In the image linked to below, you can see the curve in the pipe as it
comes through the sub floor.
I think the original installation was under tension, although things didn't
really "spring" when I cut out the leaking section last night. I wonder if
the tension had relaxed because the original 4" section that came out of
the bottom of the T had weakened over time and eventually failed. Just a
What I was able to do was use two 45's instead of a single 90. You can
see one coming out of the bottom of the T and another about 3" down. I also
put 1/4" spacers between the bottom of the joists and the horizontal pipe
that comes out of the middle of the T. This set up allowed everything to
go back together in a "relaxed" manner.
The new section starts with the T and ends with the repair coupling near
the electrical wire. The leak was in that short pipe between the two
45's. Originally that pipe had a 90 at the bottom and went directly into
the bottom of the T.
On Mon, 21 Mar 2016 13:01:58 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
PEX is for people who are too lazy to do REAL Plumbing. It's about the
same as running a garden hose to your sink, toilet, or whatever else. It
may seem durable and strong, but for how long? It's plastic, and like
all plastics, it has a limited life span. Some day in the future you'll
come home and find your house flooded because this plastic crap broke.
REAL PLUMBING is made from metal, and is a PIPE, not a HOSE!
But we live in a day and age when people worship plastics and dont want
to do any REAL work, or pay for REAL plumbing.
Pex is fine for a temporary means to get water from point A to point B,
but it's NOT a permanent plumbing. I might consider it for an outdoor
sprinkler system. but not for "piping" in my home.
As far as the original topic of this thread, I recall reading somewhere
in this (long) thread that there was stress on these copper pipes due to
Any pipe can develop a leak, and the copper was a pin hole, not a
gushing fully broken pipe. If a PEX connector comes apart, it will
result in a flood, not a small puddle.
PEX may have been developed 60 years ago, but it was not allowed in
America until recently, and is still not allowed by code in some parts
of the country, and for GOOD REASON! I dont know if it's allowed in my
part of the country, and I really dont care, but if I had any say in
local codes, I would vote against it. (But I dont have any say).
No matter how you look at it, it's a HOSE, not REAL PLUMBING!
I do know it will never be used in any home I live in!
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.