On 03 Sep 2015, Ewald B?hm wrote in alt.home.repair:
No, you don't. You just need an interface that will display Youtube content. It's included with a smart TV.
That's all included in your smart TV.
Yes.
I assume it's some customized version of Linux, but it doesn't matter unless you're planning to hack it. Normally you're given a user interface that will allow you access to the features built into the smart TV, which will include apps to access Internet content providers like Youtube, Hulu, Amazon, Netflix, and others. It may also include some games and other miscellaneous stuff. It may even include a web browser (mine does, but it works poorly.)
So what do you have that works poorl?. I was particularly interested in having a browser (more than having Netflix.) so I want to avoid what you have, if any other browser works better, that is.
W/98 did the same4 thing if you had updates turned on, as has every release since. I remember an Internet Exploder update that nobody really wanted and broke a whole lot of web applications. There was a scramble to get the old version back. That probably had more people turning updates off than anything else MS ever did.
It depends on the functionality that you want to provide. E.g., if you wanted your pool/solar controller to assume a higher degree of utilization on *holidays* than on WORKdays, you'd be hard-pressed to do this with discrete logic.
E.g., we have "dual cooling", here -- ACbrrr and Evaporative/swamp Cooler. You simply can't find a thermostat that knows how and when to use each! Instead, the *human* (occupant) becomes an integral part of the control loop. *Then*, you can use a simpler implementation (e.g., a simple thermostat).
OTOH, if you want to take the human *out* of the loop, then you need a sh*tload more "smarts" in the control system. What's the current humidity/dew point? How effective will the swamp cooler be *at* that DP? How is that DP likely to *change* in the coming HOURS? (if it's likely to RAIN later today, you surely don't want to push even *more* moisture into the house with the cooler -- that the ACbrrr will eventually have to remove ALONGSIDE the increased humidity)
*When* do you want the house to attain a particular comfort level? If the occupants are away (vacation)... . If they're at *work*, then you probably want the house to be comfortable *when* they get home -- not some time *after* they're home! So, start getting things ready BEFORE they get home. But, how far in advance is appropriate? Delay too long and they'll come home to an uncomfortable house. Start too early and you've kept an *empty* house comfortable! :-/
My first (audio) cassette deck had TTL control logic. It's replacement has several processors doing all sorts of different things! Yet, the user interface hasn't appreciably changed (play, stop, pause, rewind, etc.)
I don't know what it's called, it's just whatever was included with my Samsung TV. It's deadly slow slow slow, and navigation with the TV remote is painful. I tried hooking up a USB keyboard, but it didn't work and I haven't bothered to try to troubleshoot it, since it's nothing I'm interested in using. If I want to browse the web I'll just use one of the several other computer devices in the house.
If you have updates enabled, most MS products (along with a variety of other bits of software: Java, Firefox, IE, Acrobat, etc.) will blissfully update your software -- optionally getting your explicit consent before installing those updates.
But, for the most part, they are *supposed* to be "fixes". It's not like MS is updating your XP system to Vista, then 7even, then 8, etc. and dragging you along in the process.
You can schedule the restart, but I see no way to turn off updated entirely on the home edition. I think you can on the pro version but I've not seen it.
This all came about from work I did with a few IBM engineers way back in the Jimmy Carter solar age. Guys were designing very complicated controllers and in the end it was decided that this was a very simple thing. You really only needed a photo cell to get about 90% efficiency and a couple of temperature sensors (in and out) really bumped that up.
In the case of the pool and my solars I just use a timer and assume that in the winter in Florida the sun will be shining all day. I have a garden variety Honeywell thermostat to decide when it gets too cool to keep running them in the evening.
There is a screen that sets up the USB keyboard somewhere. I have one hooked up and it worked pretty good for a while but after an "upgrade" it stopped. I have not bothered to get it going again.
No. It's a (icky!) microcontroller series manufactured by Microchip. The original "PIC" was a (REALLY icky) manufactured by General Instruments -- the original name for Microchip. They were originally used in CATV tuner boxes -- as such, didn't really have to do much! PIC == Programmable Interface Controller though I suspect that acronym is lost over the years.
The devices have *slowly* improved in capability. Yet, are widely used, today -- largely because they are cheap and Microchip is very friendly to "hobbyists" making it easy for folks to play with (and later, adopt) these components.
I think my furnace uses one. But. consider how simple the algorithm there is:
- wait for thermostat to call for heat
- turn on exhaust blower
- turn on gas
- strike igniter
- check for ignition
- repeat a few times, MAXIMUM; if no joy, shutdown and vent the furnace
- keep gas running as long as call for heat and flame sensed
I recently got a smart TV then got a message from my provider (DIRECTV) tha t I need to connect to the internet. The second "box" is a wireless connect ion kit for $99. However, since I have been a customer beyond the contract period I can upgrade to a new receiver at no cost--if I sign on for another two year contract. Since I don't care about Netflix and the other features , I'm electing to skip the "smart" features for now.
don't care about Netflix and the other features, I'm electing to skip the "smart" features for now.
I have Dish and I did not get anything from them for my TV. I just use the HDMI input for the cable box and the WiFi on the TV sees my router. I was good to go.
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