What do i use to drill a hole in steel door for the knob?
I got a hole saw, but the steel (tin) will destroy the teeth on it.
I know the inside of the door is wood, but the outer covering is
metal. The only way I can see is to drill about 50 small holes around
the needed circle size, but that seems like a pain.
Get a bimetal hole saw. Drill half way through, then dill all the way
through with a bit the same size as the pilot bit, then drill through
with the saw from the other side. I understand they make kits for doing
this too. I has a jig that keeps every thing lined up and comes with
the hole saw
While cheap hole saws are just that, really cheap, I would think that
even they could drill a hole through the "steel" with little problem. Most
of them have trouble drilling through the wood. The "steel" of those doors
is about as tough as aluminum foil. I agree, with the others however, start
by buying a good saw.
I use whole saws for steel studs, you can get allot of wholes out of one
bit. I even put eighteen 21/2" wholes in I beams under cooling towers (
lots of lube) You really don't have another choice. Good Milwaukee whole saw
they can be sharpened to.
I agree with the other posters who said a good hole saw should do it.
A while back I had to replace a power window motor in my car, which
required drilling a one-inch hole in the inside sheet metal of the door
to get at one of the bolts. It was surprisingly fast and easy with the
hole saw. -- H
Actually it is more like 20-25 holes and a small
chisel for between the holes. That's the way I
did it for locks in my steel doors. Now I would
probably just buy the door hole saw intended for
metal and wood doors. Available at Lowes and HD.
I bought one just for wood doors recently. I
think the one for metal is about $3 more than the
one for wood.
On Tue, 01 Nov 2005 00:14:18 GMT, "George E. Cawthon"
I went and bought the cheapest hole saw I could find and intended to
toss it after the job was done. It made the hole easily and is still
fairly sharp. I bet I can do many more doors with it. The only
problem it was too shallow to penetrate the thickness of the door, but
a little chiseling away at the wood allowed the center bit to
penetrate the other side of the door and then I used the hole saw on
I went through my mastercraft bimetal hole saw on my steel door
Then a 15$ one from princess auto then the most expensive one I could find
21$ and still all I get it a but of sparks, some smoke, and my paint around the
turning brown. I thought I got a good quality hole saw but they aren't working.
Drill went through like butter but the hole saw seems to be just buffing up the
door(lol, jk). I spent
about 15 min trying, any other suggestions?
And you MUST use a low speed drill. Variable speed half inch as slow
as you can turn it, under high pressure so you cut instead of skate.
Lubricant won't hurt. I like TapMatic cutting fluid. Helps to have the
door laying flat so the lube doesnt run away, and so you can really
lean into it.
On Sat, 11 Jan 2014 15:39:42 -0500, email@example.com wrote:
When I was in the 7th grade, my uncle came over to install a peephole in
the front door, the kind that needs a 2" hole.
He took the door off and put it on the ground. But it was a wooden
door. Wouldn't it have been a lot easier to stand on a box or chair if
needed and just hold the drill horizontal. My mother or I could have
watched to make sure it stayed horizontal
It seemed to me at the time like a lot of exrra work
Especially strange since my father had died and I was a little boy, 10
when we moved there, and yet my uncle never did anything for my mother
or me except have us to dinner 2 or 3 times a year. And that was
mostly the effort of his wife and his maid.
Dusted?? Who dusts the bottom of the door? And why take the door off
its hinges to do so?
You're probably not applying enough pressure to actually cut the metal,
but instead running the saw on the metal creating friction, as evidenced
by your paint burning up. You need to put your weight into the drill so
that the teeth can do their job, and not spin the drill too fast when
you do this.
For jobs like this I use a 1/2" chuck drill, because it turns slower
than my regular 3/8" chuck drill.
I can't speak to the quality of mastercraft bimetal hole saws, but I do
know that Lennox makes a reliable one.
Ideally drill press is perfect for the job. I am in luck if I need to do
something like that I'd take whole door to my SIL's plant. He
owns/operates precision CAD/CAM machine shop. They have all the heavy
tools operated by machinists or computer. few mins. job.
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