What size breaker and wire do I need to use for a new installation (not new oven) of a 5200W wall oven.
2 lines of text for electrical.
120/240 VAC. 60HZ. 5.2KW. 3 WIRE
120/208 VAC. 60HZ. 3.95KW. 3 WIRE
Current wires coming out of the oven are 3 at 12 AWG black, red, green, and a 16 AWG white. I am not sure if they are original to the oven or not. I couldn't find the manual online. I acquired this oven used.
30a based on a 21.66a load (5200/240) but the real answer is in the installation manual. My new GE oven calls for a 20. It may not have the same power elements in it tho.
Red and Black wires should go to each side of 240 VAC, White should go to Neutral or Common, and Green should go to the metal frame. But you need to verify how the wires are connected inside the oven, or you could have a serious problem.
Your oven would draw 21.7 Amperes for 5200 Watts. A dual 25 Amp breaker should be OK unless there is a 120 VAC outlet. In that case, I'd go for a bigger breaker.
I'm not familiar with the codes that specify required wire size. 12 AWG might be OK for 30 Amps, but I would prefer 10 AWG.
replying to Brent, Brent wrote: I did just finally find an Amana document with my model number that adds 40amp to the end of the electrical lines of text on model plate. So would that mean I need a 40A breaker and 10 gauge wire?
In the manual it says: "Line Voltage Requirements Line voltage must not exceed rated voltage. Line voltage less than rated voltage will result in slow heating. Wiring system must conform to U.L. Standards and National Electrical Code. Installation must conform to all local, municipal and state building codes, and local utility regulations. Oven must be connected only to a supplied circuit as specified on rating plate. This oven requires 3 wires, 115/230-120/240 volts, 60 Hertz A.C. Unit is equipped with a No. 10 ground wire in conduit. Oven should be fused separately from other appliances. Verify electric power is off from fuse box to junction box until oven is installed and ready to operate."
Maybe I need to open it up where the flex conduit enters the oven and see what else I can find...
replying to Brent, Tony944 wrote: As you stated your oven have two settings one is for bake and other to Broil. I am sure you can use one or the other but "NOT" both at the same time! At the broil rough estimate of current would be 13-14 Amps. On the bake again rough estimate current will be 9-10 Amps. This is base on 220 power source, number 12 wire would be sufficient enough. Likewise the breaker 20-25 Amps ok. Two poles!! Your white wire is for lights and possible outlet if it has one?
We don't know because we can't see what you're reading, don't know how you're interpreting it, don't know what exactly is on the eqpt plate, in the manual, etc. But if it needs 40A, then you need 8g wire.
How you get to 40A, IDK, because all I see is 22A at 240V = 5200 watts But a typical oven could by 40A.
Very odd then that it says 5200W at 240V. It would also be odd for a new oven to use just 14 amps. They don't typically wire them up with 40A circuits for nothing. It would take a very long time to wait for your dinner. Do you like to wait?
I've never seen a 220V power source, only 240V. Maybe it exists somewhere in the USA, but AFAIK, it's not common. Apparently Amana thinks so too, they spec the oven at 240V.
I just bought a wall oven and the ones I looked at were listed for a
20a circuit. I ended up with a GE 27" convection oven that spec's out at 3.4kw. I think you will find the 40a circuits are for ranges tho. Wall ovens and cooktops are 20a or 30a.
What exactly is that ridiculous link supposed to prove? It starts off with:
Dear Cecil:
"How come the U.S. is practically the only country in the world where household electricity is 110 volts instead of 220 volts?"
Obviously they are very confused because the common residential voltages here are 120/240, not 110. Again, 110/220 may exist somewhere in the US today, but I've never seen it. Have you? Where?
I was thinking from what I have hear. The house originally had a Jenn-Air combo oven and microwave wall unit. I recently replaced it with a Kitchenaid double 30" unit. Both of those were 40A, which was fortunate so I didn't have to rewire. I can see a single oven would use less, IDK what the OP has, but he is saying that in the manual it says a 40A circuit, while those other numbers he posted would seem to show 22A, so IDK.
replying to trader_4, Tony944 wrote: Well I am not surprise that you never seen 220, however there are many places that power is must likely to be around 208 instead of 240 or 220. in most metropolitan area you are lucky to have even 208 I have been in places with power was low as 195 and customer complain why equipment is not working right "surprise".
"In metropolitan areas" (apartments etc) you may actually be looking at 2 legs of a 120/208 3p service
If you have less than 216v (240 minus 10%) at your meter on a 120/240
1p service you should be calling the Public Utilities Commission or whomever regulates your PoCo. (if the power company will not do anything about it when you tell them)
It doesn't prove anything. Only that 120volt wasn't always the norm. Long before my time on this planet, though. You shouldn't take everything I write so personally...
Years ago , around 1950 , many items were listed as operating on 110 or
220 volts. My dad repaired appliances during that era and often said
110 and 220. If I don't watch it,I will say the same thing even though most household items are listed as 120 and 240 volts. At one time near the middle 1950's items were rated for 115 volts. The 'standard' home voltage seems to have gone from 110 to 115 to 120 volts over the last 70 years.
The 208 voltage is from the way single phase power is taken from a 3 phase circuit. I am not sure what those voltages have done over the years. I worked as an electrician for a large company and seldom worked on anything that operated on 208 volts. Only had one or two electrical panels with that and 120 volts in it. Everything else was 120/240 volt rated for the office areas. Most of the work I did was with the 480 volt 3 phase circuits or the 277 volts you get off that for the lights.
At one time you had to specify if you wanted the 220/240 volt operation or the 208 lower voltage. Probably depends on what area of the country you are in.
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