Anyone have any experiences regarding this issue? I need to make a
permanent repair of a crack that has formed at he base of an exterior
foundation wall. I was planning to parge it with portland cement and
then covering it with a couple layers of the roofing cement.. I
noticed that alot of the roofing products have asbestos mixed in the
product. Does this pose any risk?
This goes deeper into the hazards than you may have wanted
After you read it, summarize it and post your conclusions ;--)
Anyway, I wouldn't worry about a bucket of plastic roof cement; I don't
see how you could inhale the fibers. I, personally, always have some on
hand. I also keep some fiberglass webbing, a coil of aluminum, a couple
of triangle trowels, and a propane torch for cleaning them. I don't
repair roofs frequently, but I used to, and I like to be always ready.
Regarding which type to get: Get the so-called "dry" kind - not the kind
you can apply to wet surfaces. Don't get the thin stuff (sometimes
called lapping compound) either. And I don't think it matters which
brand you use.
Mineral data (chrysotile has several names)
Serpentine (another name for chrysotile)
"Used like marble for decorative purposes."
One unadvertised use of plastic roof cement (and it this case you could
use lapping compound) is to get back at people. Plastic roof cement
would be the stuff alright.
The "wet" kind is a mess to apply and takes forever to setup. It,
believe it or not, works on wet surfaces though. So if you have to
repair a roof while you're in the eye of a hurricane, then use the wet
stuff. In all other circumstances, use the regular, (so-called) dry
I don't know of any longevity comparison, but I see no reason to suppose
the wet is more durable.
To do a good job, trowel a thin first layer. Then cover it with
fiberglass webbing. Then trowel another coat on top of the webbing.
If your application is a visible foundation wall, you should paint over
your job for appearances and for protection form the sun. But if you do
it too soon, cracks will form in your paint. Wait a few days first.
Roofing cement is manufactured for bonding and sealing roofing materials and
its just not a good idea to install them on masonry.
There are concrete bonding and sealing materials on the market designed for
this purpose, and the better ones will work just fine. One that bonds and seals
and turns hard will be your best bet here.
Lewis Contracting>Subject: What is the best rubberized /polymer based roofing
cement on the
On 10 Aug 2003 07:51:14 GMT, firstname.lastname@example.org (lewisconva) wrote:
I don't understand this. All the foundation guys I talk to in my neck
of the woods always use some type of roofing cement to patch tie holes
and seal pipe penetrations. Although they use the cheaspest shit they
can find it is still a roofing product. Why would you recommend
something that sets up hard when the wall will tend to expand and
contract depending on weather conditions. That's why I'm looking for a
rubberized product that will give with foundation movement.
The only time a foundation moves is during normal settlement, should you have
regular movement, then you have a problem in your footing. Pipe penetrations,
yes because the pipe will move, and a non bonding sealer is needed to seal out
moisture, but for cracking we use bonding and sealing concrete bonding agents,
and yes they get hard, and we want them to because it adds strength to the wall
and helps to keep if from moving, just like motor or concrete would, its
basically the same, except it has a higher bonding strength than concrete. The
guys in your area are looking for a quick buck here, by using a roofing cement
on a crack, roofing cement is a lot cheaper that a concrete bonding agents. I
live by one rule, if I do a job, then it will be done right.
You may want to have someone look at you foundation here.
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