I want to buy an electric fry pan to make potato pancakes outside on my porch. They really stink up my kitchen using my gas stove. Looking at either 1500 watt Presto or 1200 Elite gourmet. They both have short cords, 2 feet give or take. I need about 20 feet more. 120v with 15 amp breakers. Old house. Any suggestions? I will take a do not do that too.
Thay have short cords for a reason. 1500w draws 12.5 amps and there are other physical safety reasons for keeping the cord short. 12.5 amps is slightly over 80% of a 15A branch circuit, which is the maximum recommended continuous capacity for a 15a ckt.
This is a dedicated potato pancake maker, highly recommended:
I would use a 12 gauge drop cord of around 20 to 25 feet. They may not make them that long,but some window AC units have heavy duty cords that you may want to look at. You will probably hear some people say don't do it. However think of it that you already have either # 12 or probably # 14 wire in the wall already going to the socket. Just be sure the plugs and sockets are in good shape.
Lowes has a 12-3 cord 25 feet long.
14 gauge is what code requires for a 15A branch circuit. You;re going another 20 ft. 14 gauge cord works for me. If there is some problem, like flickering lights, smoke coming out of the walls, etc, then that should be addressed for it's own sake.
The "old house" worries me more than the electrical maths. How old ? Unless you cook your pancakes at MAX for a big crowd < ie burn them > you should be OK ...
Beware of the assumption that a "block heater" cord is heavy-duty - they often have weak wire and slightly better insulation.
Look at the wire-size - it'a embossed into the insulation -
10 gauge 10/3 10/4 nice & heavy - like small generator cord 12 gauge 12/3 a heavy duty cord 14 gauge 14/3 an average extrension cord 16 gauge 16/3 light duty extension cordGerman apple pancakes with a drizzle of maple syrup .. please & thanks.
John T.
The best solution is to install a 20A dedicated GFCI protected circuit on the porch, within 2 feet of where you want to cook my...errr...umm...I mean your breakfast.
The next alternative is to use a minimum 12g extension cord, at the shortest length you need. Stay safe, don't trip on the cord, and check it for warmth every now and then. If it's getting warm, unplug it and go to a diner.
Now this assumes that you aren't running much (if anything) else on the circuit while you are cooking. You are approaching the limit of a 15A circuit. While it may not pop immediately, prolonged use at near-limits can cause a breaker to trip via it's thermal protection circuitry.
Obviously, this unit is supposed to work on a standard kitchen receptacle, which will be at least 15A, although 20A is better. The 12g extension cord simply ensures a lower voltage drop than a 14g cord would.
One of the reasons for short cords on appliances is because the manufacturer "assumes" that any kitchen is up to current code, with receptacles no more than 24" apart. That keeps your cords from running all over the place and eliminates the need for - wait for it - extension cords.
The 14 is probably fine. I just tend to over do it. Then with all the stuff comming over from China you never know what you may get. There has been a lot of copper covered aluminum wire that is really hard telling what in terms of copper wire.
Seems a few years back there was some kind of stink about China and Lowes or Home Depot drop cords not being like they should.
Thanks for all the super quick replies. Much appreciated.
300 - - -
That could be good. Wrap the cord around the maple syrup to warm it up.
Anoher thing being overlooked is that no matter how long the cord is ,strech it out and do not leave any of it coiled up. If the cord is not really up to the task it may overheat and melt the insulation.
I agree. If there is any problem it's likely to be where the extension cord plugs in, or the pan plugs into it. Feel those places after 20 minutes and see if they are warmer than elewhere, though if the receptacle and the cord are less than 10 years old, I doubt there is any problem.
BTW, how long do you plan to be frying? I can't imagine it's long, or long enough for this to be a problem with 14 gauge.
About 1980, I was using a 1500 watt electric heater in my bedroom and I awoke to find a 2" fire burning the hard rubber plug on the heater, but this was in a 1930 building. The receptacle was 50 years old and was plenty loose. Even then it had worked for days with no problem, and I suppose I bent the plugs prongs and made it fit tighter and it was fine after that. The plug didn't get warmer than the room was.
What he said ;)
They use short cords so you don't have cord clutter on the kitchen counter. A wad of cord is more likely to be laying next to another hot appliance. A 14ga extension cord should be plenty at 25 feet. It will "eat" most of a 15a circuit tho so you can't have much else on that circuit. If it is easy I would string another circuit out there but for most folks, it isn't easy.
Is an electric fry pan a "continuous" load (3 or more hours)?
But that is for branch circuits.
Cords use different rules. With 2 current carrying conductors (not including ground) #14 is rated 18A. With 3 or more conductors the rating is 15A.
I agree #14 should work.
With a 25' 16 ga cord it would actually drop about 1/8 of that.
25' of #16 stranded @ 12.5a is 3.1v drop or about 38 watts. It is still overloading the cord tho.I also bet that is actually 1440 watts rounded up to 1500 or it would never get listed with a 5-15 cord cap. That is sort of like those "1800" watt hair dryers that are also 1440w when you put the clamp on them. The marketing folks must use the locked rotor current of the motor along with the element if it was on 126v Max allowable under ANSI C84.1-2016
A little pricey, though.
We've been using an electric skillet plugged in to an "appliance" extension cord (20A circuit) while waiting for the flooring to be installed in our kitchen. When the project was less far along, I dragged the electric skillet outside and used a 25-foot extension cord (again, a 20A) circuit.
IMO, Thomas needs two things:
Better ventilation in his kitchen. A GFCI 20A circuit outdoors.
Cindy Hamilton
Dedicated circuits for stoves and clothes dryers are 220. There might be a couple other things. But most of the outlets in a home will be 110. Bud and Fretwell can give you more details as far as the code requirements for three wires vs. four, code changes etc. It seems silly at first blush but requirements for livestock buildings are more stringent in some ways than for houses.
And what is your calculation on the voltage drop here for 20 ft of 12 gauge vs 14 gauge?
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