weatherproofing new window installation

[ezalpha]

I'm looking for information on the proper way to weatherproof and install flashing on a new window installation. The building is new, and at this stage is 1/2" chipboard on the exterior and TYVEK over top. In hindsight I probably shouldn't have bought the windows I did because they don't have a nailing flange. They're good quality, but better suited to a brick verneer I think. Too late now though, I've got them and I'm going to use them. Some are large, 62" high with a 12" transom over the top. All are casements of varying widths 36" up to 72. Vinyl construction with a wood sash or whatever you call it around the inside. One is a 60"fan. That's the one I'm most concerned about because it's about 35' above ground level (until I build a deck 12' below it). The manufacturer doesn't sell any kind of flashing kit.

I want to have a "frame of 1" x 5" Hardyplank (I think its called) around the perimeter of the windows and then vinyl siding for the rest of the exterior. I've seen this done on a temporary sales building for a new subdivision. It looks great. The Hardy product is an OSB that will withstand the elements. In that installation the vinyl window structure sticks out 1/2" more than the Hardy plank, so I would install the windows with 1" protruding to the exterior. Seems I've also seen a similar installation where the window doesn't stick out as far as the wood trim. Sort of like a brick mold, although I can't nail to the vinyl. my construction is 2"x6" so I'm already having to use jamb extensions. I'm concerned about the flashing on the casements because some windows are on an unprotected (ie no overhang) 3-story wall that will get a lot of rain, and not always from above.

I bought an Ortho window and doors book at HD (big bucks), but it only deals with windows with a nailing flange. I also downloaded the fan window installation material from the Pella site, but it only deals with TYVEK and tape issues, no flashing. And their casements have a form of nailing flange as well.

I'm hoping some one can point me at a web site with info or pictures. Or maybe a better book than what I have.

Thanks Dave

[jim]

sounds like you bought replacement windows.. i saw the neighbors all brick houses get some replacement windows put in..the old window had to have the glass removed and the guys put what looked like a very oversized pair of vice grips on the frame of the window and then beat the window to the center of the opening to pull the nailed down strips out from behind the bricks... with the new windows they had long screws that went into the window frame from the center of the opening towards the opening of the frame... this is the only way they could get a new window into an opening that was already bricked....this might be what you have to do????

[jim]

sounds like you bought replacement windows.. i saw the neighbors all brick houses get some replacement windows put in..the old window had to have the glass removed and the guys put what looked like a very oversized pair of vice grips on the frame of the window and then beat the window to the center of the opening to pull the nailed down strips out from behind the bricks... with the new windows they had long screws that went into the window frame from the center of the opening towards the opening of the frame... this is the only way they could get a new window into an opening that was already bricked....this might be what you have to do???? and like you said i have never seen any info on the net or anyplace that showed you how to install replacement windows...

[RoBo]

Install the exterior casing over the windows sides and top (1/2" min. overlap. be sure to caulk before installing. then window cap flashing over top casing and flexible flashing over "fan" window. assuming you already know how to install Tyvek (after reading their installation instructions). the vinyl j-channel around the window trim should be installed over the window cap flashing and sides (sil trim under sil).