I bought some certainteed Bryn Mar II vinyl double hung replacement
windows.... they have a inch wide/deep slot that runs the outside
perimeter of the window. It looks like it was meant to receive the
siding, is this correct?
In any case, does the whole window sit inside the wooden frame, or do
you slide the window out so the siding butts up against the window/J
channel.... and so the drain holes in the outside sill hang out away
from the house(so they drain away from the house)?
Get a PDF file from this link....
They have computers, and they may have other weapons of mass destruction.
Janet Reno, Attorney General, Friday, February 27, 1998
Replacement window installs where the old sash was. No siding work involved.
Just remove interior stops and sash and put in the replacement (approx
3"thick) and reinstall the stops. You may want to install aluminum cladding
on the old sill etc.
Maybe I am using the wrong term...When I removed the original window, I
had nothing left except the 2x4 studs that make up the frame. Then of
course, you have a half inch of plywood, and the siding.
The original window butted right up againt the aluminum siding. So when
I removed the original window, I needed to do something with the
siding, like put a j-channel all around the perimeter.
If I have the window sit entirely on the frame stud, then the sill of
the new window, with it's drain holes, hangs over the plywood -not
I am confused now. You removed the entire window and frame so there is just
the studs. Are you now trying to use a replacement window or did you get a
new construction window? A new construction window should have a nailing
flange around it that just nails to the plywood than siding covers the
flange. I have used the BryMar but only as a replacement window which
requires the existing window frame to be there. I am not familiar with them
configured for new construction with a flange. Sorry I can't be of more
If you read the Certainteed website install instructions, you will see
that installation into a rough opening is one of the options....in fact
when I ordered the windows, they asked for the rough opening size....
Keith, I don't know what to tell you, but those instructions are
entirely fucked up. There's no mention of any flashing whatsoever -
they want you to caulk the window to the wood framing! That is simply
insane. Your framing will rot instead of the window frame. Rule one
in weatherproofing - don't rely on caulk.
I thought you were missing something, but nope, the instructions do say
to do exactly what you have done. I've never seen such lame
instructions from such a quality company.
You are now in for a rather large learning experience. Having been in
the business for a while, I would have ignored those instructions and
either inserted the windows into the existing window frame after
pulling the sashes and stops, or have allowed for quite a bit of
You are now firmly in damage control territory. I don't see any simple
options. I would not be happy about doing it because it is so much
more work and money, but I'd probably cut back the siding to allow for
an exterior casing of 1x4 Azek, then flash around the window with a
metal top (required by code even though it is frequently omitted) and
self-adhesive 4" or 6" Bituthene type flashing. After that's done I'd
probably install the siding channel to the Azek casing and install
those pieces as an assembly (you won't be able to nail standard
J-channel as the leg will be behind the existing siding).
I'd contact Certainteed's tech department and ask them to fax you some
detail sketches of how they suggest you do it. They might have a way
that is easier than mine, but I can't see it from here.
What is wrong with what I did... which was to put j-channel all around
the perimeter of the siding. Then I simply slide the window out just
enough so that the j-channel slipped into the slot of the window. It
butts nicely up against the window, and I caulked it.
In fact, many replacement windows I see come with an integral
But is the replacement window the same identical outside dimensions as the
(height, width, depth)
Manufacturers can/do goof, reading and order, and mistake a 6 for an 8 or a
0 on a piece of paper or a tape measure, and the wrong size is a result.
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