<BLOCKQUOTE type="cite"><PRE wrap="">What can I do within the remaining four days to hasten
drying and prevent mildew?
Run the A/C flat out to lower ambient humidity as much as possible.
Apply gentle heat (clamp-on flood lamps work well) and air circulation
(fans) to the wet area. Gentle heat plus circulation will dry things in
a matter of hours.
If your A/C ducting is fiberglass board, it will not be harmed. Gypsum
board can usually take a few soakings.
Lysol was a mistake. More water. Mildew is not inhibited by medicinal
odors, although it smells like you did something.
Dessicants (DryRid) are not effective except in tightly sealed spaces
that are not opened, and quickly spend themselves. Time constant then
is still days or weeks.
Beware of clean-up crews that will descend wanting $100s or $1000s to do
what you can do rather easily yourself. They will shake their heads,
and give you grim looks, and poke around with fancy looking meters with
needles pointing to "pay these guys NOW whatever they ASK", all designed
to justify absurd prices. Take their free diagnosis but do the cure
If the dwelling is vacant, snowbird, make sure you have humidity control
while you're away and a backup way to read it. Sling psychrometers are
cheap and accurate, train your neighbor to sample your air.
And WHY did you have a valve on the condensate drain??? You DO have a
2nd (backup) condensate drain pan and line, right? You must assume the
main one will clog, and have an alert system that tells you it is
<DIV>Thanks for the help. <BR>Warranty folks came and didn't hose me
(suprise, suprise). They made sure that I had gotten all the gunk out of
the drain line and that everything else was in order. However, they did
nothing to reduce the wet insulation in the return box. So, I'm leaving
the fan in there and have my humidistate controling the A/C, no heating light,
though. Not dry yet, but getting there. Got a house sitter while I'm
away and he'll check things out for me.<BR><BR>Finally, just want to clear the
"valve" issue. Not really a valve. I put a T into the drain line
with a plug on the top of it. This way by easily removing the plug, I
can pour in chorine to flush the line every month...as I should have been
doing all along.<BR><BR>Adam</DIV>
<DIV><EM><FONT face=Arial size=2>Actually, chorine bleach is NOT the preferred
method now. Any tech with any training will actually use what is called a
Gallo Gun on each spring service.</FONT></EM></DIV>
<DIV><EM><FONT face=Arial size=2>Chorine can do more damage than good to the
AC coil itself, IF you do not have a P trap inline.</FONT></EM></DIV><EM><FONT
style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV><EM><FONT face=Arial size=2>As far as the wet insulation....you have two
choices, in a case like this....replace the insulation or box, or allow it to
dry out. We insulation is NOT EVER covered under warranty, as a clogged
condensate drain is NOT a warranty issue...it is a maintence
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