Hotpoint 40 Gallon Natural Gas Water Heater - 6 YR Warranty-36,000 BTU
$373.00 (with tax, about $421 with tax)
GE40 Gallon Natural Gas Water Heater 6 YR Warranty-36,000 BTU
$402.00 (about $454 with tax)
Which means you paid $530 + tax.
You overpaid. The extra 3 years on the warranty wasn't worth the extra
$150 - $175 up-front that you paid.
They all come out of the same factory.
After 6 years you'd be lucky if they gave you $265 credit on a
That's what insurance companies like to hear after a house burns down.
They just walk away ... with their check book as full as when they
arrived ... while the code official writes a citation for installing
the unit without a permit.
The gas inlet is threaded pipe. The water inlet and outlets are also
threaded connections. Nobody makes gas water heaters with that don't
have threaded connections.
You show me a water tank that has short lengths of raw copper pipes
sticking out of the top. You won't, because you can't.
Same goes for the gas inlet. NO TORCH OR WELDING REQUIRED to hook up
the gas line, like BGM (the OP) claims.
Even if I did have to rework the iron gas line, it would be a simple
matter of screwing a few short lengths together, a 90-degree elbow or
two. But I don't see why you would have to - unless you wanted to
relocate the new water tank. It should have lined up with existing
On Wednesday, May 21, 2014 8:33:07 AM UTC-4, HomeGuy wrot
Just because the tank has a threaded connection doesn't say anything
about what it's connected to. Very typically it's connected to a copper
male adaptor which is then soldered to the home plumbing system
Claire told you similar. But then being you, I know it's hard.
After shoehorning a new water heater into place, I recall a sense of
amazement that the damn thing lined up exactly with the existing plumbing. U
figured it was going to be another adventure in modern plumbing.
On Wednesday, May 21, 2014 9:54:59 AM UTC-4, rbowman wrote:
Like Claire, I didn't assume anything. No one knows how the old
WH is connected. No one knows for example if there is an old shutoff
valve that should be replaced and that is soldered in. The old tank
could be soldered in, no unions. And for the benefit of Homelessguy,
no I don't mean the tank itself is soldered in. You typically have a
threaded copper adaptor there and then it could be solder joints from
OP said he doesn't have a torch, never soldered, etc. This is a
fairly simple job, if you have the right skills and everything lines
up, like it may. But if the OP doesn't have the skills,
isn't comfortable screwing around with gas connections, etc, then
he shouldn't be made to feel bad for using a pro.
True, especially soldering. Once you know how, it is really easy. If
you've never held a torch it is very intimidating. Sharkbite fittings
though, make it possible for many people to do plumbing they never could
OTOH, there are many people that should never attempt to change out a
water heater. Chances are, they have other skills that I'll never have,
such as singing and dancing. .
Yea - that's something I didn't think of.
Your water heater doesn't move around, shake or vibrate like a clothes
dryer does. The use of a short flexible link to connect a gas water
heater is a much safer application of those flex lines than any other
gas-using consumer device.
(-: That's pretty outrageous for a flippin' water heater. I have to decide
now whether to buy one now on sale and store it or just bite the bullet and
pull the old one out *before* it starts leaking. It's about as old as
yours, but it sees fairly light use. Nine hundred dollars. You'd think it
was a self-powered polonium core unit with gold filigree.
What - do you expect every joint and elbow in the water distribution
lines in house is going to have threaded connections?!
What kind of bone-head are you?
The point of this discussion is that you people are claiming that it's
hard, oh so hard to connect a new hot water tank yourself because you
have to break out the torch and welder, because nobody uses threaded
connections, yet you completely miss the point that the most crucial
location (and really, the ONLY place you need or want to have threaded
connections) is on the friggin device or appliance itself. Why you
would want threaded connections or unions anywhere else makes absolutely
And if you want a threaded joint somewhere in a water pipe where it
currently doesn't exist, you cut the friggen copper pipe and solder one
on. If you can't do that, then what the hell are you doing reading and
posting to this news group? You should be reading rec.crafts.sewing or
baking or similar.
On Wednesday, May 21, 2014 10:17:05 AM UTC-4, HomeGuy wro
No, but apparently you do.
You're lying. I never said any such thing.
It makes perfect sense. The WH I have and the other ones that are
typically installed here, are like Claire told you. There is a male
copper adaptor that is screwed into the tank. Or many of them come
with dielectric nipples, so you use a female adaptor. From there copper
pipe with solder joints connects it to the system. That is a very
typical install. Capiche?
Got it now?
Alternatively you could have unions that allow only threaded
connections to be used. But you can't just have a threaded connection
on the tank, because without a coupling, you can't connect it.
Explain to us how you could just have one threaded connection to the water
heater and no unions, threaded connections, anywhere adjacent. Even you
seem to recognize that because you said:
"Then you unscrew the couplers and move the old tank out of the way. "
Well, if there is no coupler on the old system, ie it's soldered in,
then you can't unscrew it, idiot.
No shit Sherlock. But the OP said he doesn't have a torch, doesn't
know how to solder, doesn't want to work with gas, etc. Is that
so hard to comprehend? You claimed no soldering was involved just
screwed connections. Make up your mind.
A lot of people come here looking for advice on how to proceed with
a repair project that may include using a pro. They don't need your
insults, especially when you don't know WTF you're talking about.
On Wednesday, May 21, 2014 11:11:04 AM UTC-4, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Hold on, there is some truth to it.
While there is no known case of an insurance company latching on to a DIY repair to avoid paying a valid claim,
there are MANY cases of a DIY'er accidentally burning the house down while tackling a repair beyond his level of skill.
Actually it is a common occurrence in state like New York and
California. If you insist on doing your own work...Go get a permit and
have it inspected to cover your ass and to keep your family healthy.
Use a little common sense for crists sake!
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