Have the typical single-handle Delta faucet in our kitchen.
Has recently in the last few weeks developed a water hammer when turning it
such that the cold water is put on.
Water hammer only when turning on.
So, I replaced the two springs and rubber "top-hat" gaskets in the faucet
that contact the ball.
Still have the water hammer.
Any thoughts on what might be the problem, and what to do about it other
than replacing the faucet with a new one ?
From the description it does not sound like water hammer. I
would take a look at the cold water supply from the connection to the
faucet to the main supply. Look for a loose or missing support.
Try holding on to both the hot and cold water supplies under
the skin while someone turns the cold and the hot on and off. Follow
the vibration or the pipe to the source. You will likely find a loose
hanger or some sort of mechanical defect.
If it is water hammer replacing parts of the faucet will
not help, you need an arrestor or to dry out the one you have, but
that you should only hear when you turn OFF the water not when you
turn it on.
I have a similar problem with a 4 month old LDR washerless double handle
model 012 3400 Kitchen faucet with spray.
The hammer in this case is in the spout diverter valve as may be for the OP.
If hot or cold water is turned on water flow through the spout is
interrupted as the faucet goes thump thump.
When the spray is pressed and hot or cold water is turned on there is
one small thump and the water flows freely through the spray.
Removing the spout and manually plugging the top and rear hole in the
spout pipe, no thump.
LDR does not list a replacement diverter valve for a kitchen faucet, IMO
there must be one in there.
Problem may not be in the faucet. The cutoff valve under the sink may
be the culprit. First make sure the valve is turned all the way on and
see if this fixes it. They should be all the way open or closed, never
in between. I had a water ammer problem that drove me nuts for nearly
a year and found there was a valve hidden in the wall. The hammering
started any time the water down stream from the valve was turned on.
The noise didnt sound like it was coming from anywhere near the valve.
The only way I found it was with the help of a neighbor who was there
when the house was built and he remembered the valve in the wall.
Thanks Jimmie...Google search brought me here. After dealing with water hammer in one bathroom faucet for over a year, I just realized the valve was only on about a quarter turn. With it all the way open/on, problem solved.
Depending on the type of valve in question, if you have opened it all the
way, you should now close it about 1/8 of a turn, maybe less.
You want to have some play in both directions. If the valve is fully open
up against the stop and it jams up due to corrosion, you may have trouble
closing it. The best practice is to open a valve all the way and then close
it slightly, maybe 1/8 of it's full travel, to ensure a little play to the
This applies to most gate valves and angle stops, not necessarily ball
replying to Robert11, Johny c one lately wrote:
I realize this is old! But this thread lead me to the conclusion.
It is air in the side sprayer hose causing the diverter to quickly surge to the
hand sprayer while the air inside the hose is compressed to equal the. water
pressure. I had this same problem, one of the responses nearly had it. Release
the air from the sprayer and problem solved.
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