When I went out to put a load of clothes in the dryer the washer was full of
water. It went thru the washing cycle but never moved past that. I moved
the dial around and it will start washing at every mode but will stop and
never go any further. It won't pump, rinse or spin. Could someone tell me
what the problem is and is it expensive to repair.
Quite likely the timer mechanism is gone. Unplug it from the power
supply before working on it.
If your washer has one of those older electromechanical time, most
likely since your setting is by a rotary dial, unscrew the control
panel and take a look at the mechanism. The timer's wire harness has
keyed connectors, so it is easy to replug the unit correctly. Rotate
the dial it for a few times and see if the timing tabs or the gear
teeth are missing. The tabs and gear are plastic and some of the
broken parts may even fall out. Shake the timer to see if there are
any broken parts. If the timer is faulty or broken just remove it and
bring it to the appliance parts shop for a replacement module. Its not
repairable or certainly not worth repairing. Its a long time since I
bought the part for around $50 (I think)
If you can take it out just bring it to the shop and ask the
partsperson if that timer module is OK or needs replacement. Else
Jeff's diagnosis about the lid switch sounds likely. It is a safety
interlock switch that won't allow the drum to spin when the cover is
open (ie switch is open)
"If you can take it out just bring it to the shop and ask the
partsperson if that timer module is OK or needs replacement. "
Now that'a a new one. And how is the parts counter persons supposed to
figure out if the timer/control unit is good or bad?
On 11 Aug 2005 09:34:27 -0700, email@example.com wrote:
Like I said in my first post. The timer motor works as it does cycle
through the initial program. The electrical parts work. When you
rotate the dial it will feel "broken" like having missing gear teeth
or timing tabs. The turning pressure will feel "funny" with sections
that feel loose and empty. When I took out my timer module some of
the broken tab teeth fell out. I took a look inside the module and
sure enough I could see where the tabs had been stripped. A parts
person who handles such parts on a dialy basis will know at once what
feels right and what feels not right. His visual inspection will
confirm the problem.
The control panel has two screws holding the bezel. Undo them. Pull
out or unscrew the dial knob. There will be two screws securing the
timer module to the control panel frame. Unscrew those, unplug the
wire harness and the timer module can be removed.
No mention of washer make, model#, approx age??....but some direct
drive style washers ( some Kenmores, Whirlpools ) will fill and agitate
only but will not spin or drain if the lid switch/lid switch probe is
Appliance Repair Aid
That was my first thought, too. Look at the lid to see if there is a
plunger that depresses a safety switch,. If there's a switch and no plunger
(unlikely), glue something like a dowel there as a replacement. If there's
a plunger and a switch, try pressing the switch down with a screwdriver or a
pencil. If it works, that's your problem. I kept a machine going for years
with a bit of plastic glued to the top of the switch for bulk. When the
switch itself finally broke, it was not an expensive part, just had to pull
the skin to get at it.
You and k hit the nail on the head. After reading your message I went out
and checked the plunger/switch lid and the plunger was there but the switch
thingie had fallen down on top of the tub. Looked as tho it had rusted out.
Appliance repair guy coming Monday. Thanks to all for their response.
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