Not really, but it will dip below freezing in winter. If I do this
would it be a good idea to then come straight up from the fan, 90 over,
and tweak the horizontal run a little to get it to slope down toward the
(THIS is why you post, so you get ideas like this?)
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
You run a "loop" or "s" type trap out of the duct. The flex is great for
this, and you can continue with either flex or rigid.
You don't want a slope running down towards the vent, it's a sure way to
dump the moisture into the fan.
Sure you can, if your code permits it, that's part of what this thread
Personally, I hate those louvered vents for the same reason birds love
them. It does bring a big grin to my face, when I see birds fly out of them.
The vent supplied with the Panasonic Whisperwall (the through-wall
version) is actually very nice and quite robust steel. Installed
through the wall, the fan uses an 8" duct and the outdoor vent is
about 10" square, with an integral damper and a very heavy screen over
the opening. No way any bird will get in there, and the damper seals
tightly whenever the fan is not running. It's much easier to install
than any ceiling solution, and since the total run is just the
thickness of the wall you won't have any problems with dropoff or
condensation that you'd have with a long attic run.
Yes but make sure there aren't any "droops" in the exhaust flex line if you
re using that to get from the fan to outside. If there are any sagging
areas, especially in cooler wall/attic/ceiling spaces you run the risk of
condensation forming within the pipe and running down into the sagging area
creating quite a heavy weight of water in the pipe over time
The problem is the size of the duct work. Keep it as wide as possible. I
had to shrink one of mine and it increases noise dramatically and obviously
reduces flow. However a high quality fan going thru 3" duct work instead of
4 inch duct work is still tons better than a builder's special fan which is
what I thru out.
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